Coolant pipe repair. Parts needed....
#61
03-03-2012, 10:23 AM
Difficult day today 
. Because I have to remove the coolant pump housing and because in this housing there are the turbos reservoir scavenge pumps, you have to remove the three oil lines from and to the housing....THe lines from the turbo reservoir were completely seized. Even after an hour bath in release oil I could not remove them without damaging them....New lines on order 
. Because I have to remove the coolant pump housing and because in this housing there are the turbos reservoir scavenge pumps, you have to remove the three oil lines from and to the housing....THe lines from the turbo reservoir were completely seized. Even after an hour bath in release oil I could not remove them without damaging them....New lines on order Three words
Blow tourch, Ice...
Some heat on the fitting then a piece of ice to cool the line in the center works wonders.
#62
03-03-2012, 10:38 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 
Another good suggestion, thanks Engine Guy...
#63
03-03-2012, 01:56 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266
Finally manage to remove the water pump housing today. Because heat is going to be applied for old pipes removal and welding, I have remove the thermostat and the water pump. Both in very good shape...I had a lot of difficulty removing the old pipes (3). They needed a lot of heat and persuasion. Conclusion , it was a good thing to get the pipes kit 
I am not going to remove the dual stage turbos oil pump for the welder. I think the pump is far enough it will not suffer of any heat....
Next step , found a good welder
I am not going to remove the dual stage turbos oil pump for the welder. I think the pump is far enough it will not suffer of any heat....
Next step , found a good welder
#66
03-04-2012, 08:56 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266
Wow! Looks like a good clean job! On the second picture there is a coil on the engine, are you getting other work done at the same time?
Last edited by jpflip; 03-04-2012 at 08:59 AM.
#68
03-04-2012, 12:27 PM
Just order mine from Pelican last night and they don't have 996-106-529-73 also 996-106-477-73...Where did you order yours? I have order all the parts I need for reinstallation last night. I was amazed to see the price of some of the o-rings! More expensive then Airbus parts and Airbus are the most expensive parts in the aviation market!!!!
The repair manual mention sometimes to used Loctite 574 but there is no mention of the cooler removal or the bracket under it. No torque no removal/installation. Under the cooler bracket there was some rtv. Which type would you use? It is only a crankcase breather port....
Basic we both live in the same country, do not hesitate to mention product that I can found in auto store or even Canadian tire, Thanks for your help....
The repair manual mention sometimes to used Loctite 574 but there is no mention of the cooler removal or the bracket under it. No torque no removal/installation. Under the cooler bracket there was some rtv. Which type would you use? It is only a crankcase breather port....
Basic we both live in the same country, do not hesitate to mention product that I can found in auto store or even Canadian tire, Thanks for your help....
For the torque settings find another bolt the is the same size somewhere else on the engine and use that. For sealing I use permatex black or grey depending on the application. I'd use black for the breather.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
#69
03-04-2012, 12:30 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 All my parts came from Suncoast
For the torque settings find another bolt the is the same size somewhere else on the engine and use that. For sealing I use permatex black or grey depending on the application. I'd use black for the breather.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
For the torque settings find another bolt the is the same size somewhere else on the engine and use that. For sealing I use permatex black or grey depending on the application. I'd use black for the breather.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
#71
04-10-2012, 04:31 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266
Just got a wake-up call from pwdrhound on another thread and I must had this note. If you only have an hydraulic table, like me, to do the engine removal there are three things to do before positioning the table under the engine for removal. You better remove the two elbows for the coolant pipes going onto the water pump housing. And also the turbo pump return line coming from the water pump housing going to the crankcase, that line should also be remove before. When the engine is on the table those three parts are difficult to reach to facilitate the water pump housing removal and installation.
Last edited by jpflip; 04-10-2012 at 04:33 PM.
#72
04-11-2012, 12:56 AM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1,460
Rep Power: 95 Just got a wake-up call from pwdrhound on another thread and I must had this note. If you only have an hydraulic table, like me, to do the engine removal there are three things to do before positioning the table under the engine for removal. You better remove the two elbows for the coolant pipes going onto the water pump housing. And also the turbo pump return line coming from the water pump housing going to the crankcase, that line should also be remove before. When the engine is on the table those three parts are difficult to reach to facilitate the water pump housing removal and installation.
Frank
#73
04-11-2012, 09:43 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 
. The rebuilding is slow because I don't have too much time to spend in my garage. Too busy at work! Slowly but surely....
#74
04-11-2012, 01:21 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1,460
Rep Power: 95 I have a, 1962 Split Screen, 1969 early bay window Danbury, a 1973 Bay window Westfalia and a 1986 T25 Auto Sleeper.
Along with the B&B time is very short.lol
I have asked Ken to sell my Porka if he can and if the price is right
. If it goes now, then this is the right time for it to go. If it doesn't sell, then I'll keep it. Ive had it nearly 6 years now
#75
04-11-2012, 02:12 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 I know what you mean. I have started another new company. Sunnyside Classic VW Camper Hire, " Sunnyside Campers" for short.
I have a, 1962 Split Screen, 1969 early bay window Danbury, a 1973 Bay window Westfalia and a 1986 T25 Auto Sleeper.
Along with the B&B time is very short.lol
I have asked Ken to sell my Porka if he can and if the price is right. If it goes now, then this is the right time for it to go. If it doesn't sell, then I'll keep it. Ive had it nearly 6 years now
I have a, 1962 Split Screen, 1969 early bay window Danbury, a 1973 Bay window Westfalia and a 1986 T25 Auto Sleeper.
Along with the B&B time is very short.lol
I have asked Ken to sell my Porka if he can and if the price is right
. If it goes now, then this is the right time for it to go. If it doesn't sell, then I'll keep it. Ive had it nearly 6 years nowOh my god!!!!! That must be a difficult decision. I am really sorry for you Frank. Hope you will sell it, if it is necessary but if you don't we will be happy to keep you for your knowledge and friendship! Best of luck with Sunnyside Campers!!!!