email me the actual excel file...

 

I would love to see someone make sense of those numbers. Just a guess but it sounds like its pulling timing. Get all sensors checked and if no joy find a good tuner with a good dyno to look at it. I know one but in bromsgrove.

 

You don't need all those parameters. Just select the parameters from the xml code below

<SelectedValue>RPM</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Engine load</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Actual engine torque</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Mass air flow (HFM)</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Intake air temperature</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Ignition angle</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Injection time</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Pedal value</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Vehicle speed</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Oxygen sensing bank 1 Lambda Value</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Oxygen sensing bank 2 Lambda Value</SelectedValue>
<SelectedValue>Boost pressure of sensor</SelectedValue>

Whilst you have a good sample rate always better to run fewer parameters.

As to the log, without IATs, pedal value etc it is not completely accurate, but the first time you go on boost the AFRs are fine around 11.8 on boost or 0.8 lamba. But there is a point where you have come off boost and back on, and in that instance your lambas are very lean 0.9 etc. It is difficult to read without knowing whether you have come off the pedal but assuming you haven't then it is lean. You would expect it to richen if IATs had increased over 50c, not lean.
Just initial impressions from limited data.

 

Hi,Could you please answer these questions on your turbo set-ups....Thanks

 

Sorry forgot this one. You should know that we operate for Markski in the UK so he can give you the same information of course.

The k1639s have tested faster in our testing than the k16/16g and billets. We have had both on various cars. The billets were stripped by our builder in the UK and compared on the bench to the 39s, and the 39s are superior.

Of course you have to compare apples to apples as we say. We know based on our testing which is best. The fact for example that maybe someone has run a faster 60-130 on 16/16s than we have on 1639s is not relevant to me. What is important is that in consistent testing, with full weight car, 2 persons and half a tank, at same AT, on same location, the 1639s were better.

It was the same when we tested to 300kph. Same test conditions.

You know you can put in a bigger wheel, say one that flows 48lbs into a 16 housing, but in our tests (we did this) it gave different results - turbine had to work harder and they produced more heat, so timing was pulled quicker, and therefore 300kph time was slower. Bigger is not always better in hybrids.

Again, not having a go about the 60-130 times, but I know that I can shave a good 0.5-0.75 running near empty, on my own, lower weight, on race fuel and so on. We are talking just pump 99 UK fuel.

As to the 18g v the billet version, the billet version was better. As far as I know most 18gs that are sold now, are in fact the billet version. Markski is probably better placed to confirm that.

We are now in the process of developing a new k24 hybrid - that is in progress. Looking for something better than 20g billets basically.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks,,,I hope your new K24s will be better then the K24/18gs..Also do you kits run stock throttle bodies??

 

The timing actually looks really nice for pump fuel. AFRs look good too. I like how the boost ramps up after peak torque, looks like a really nice tune (so far). As far as it being lean at the very end, that was a 0.5s throttle blip as far as I can tell -not much to discern from that. Actual boost does lag requested boost by a tad -what gear was this pull done in? might be worth a boost leak check.

Yazz if you can, try a 3,4,5 pull with the parameters that 996ttalot suggested. I'd like to see how the .2 coolers are doing on an 18g car (be sure to note ambient temp). If you're trapping 128 without a launch on ~1.3 bar and pump fuel, you're doing pretty well, dyno #s be damned.

 

Earl3, I'll have some pump gas billet 18g numbers with .2 IC's in a week or two. Anything you want me to log specifically? PM me if you want.

/hijack thread over

 

@996ttalot what maps do you guys run there over at 9E ?

 

From 3500-5500rpm it looks like the car is pulling some major timing but looks good up top. What gear did you log in? Try just doing rpm, engine load, ignition angle, and oxygen sensing bank 1 lambda in third or fourth gear floored from 2500-redline. You've got too many on your log I can't tell which #'s are your afr's. As long as its not going past .82 at wide open throttle your within where you want to be with these cars. I think most of these cars run best between .78-.82 from what I've heard. I'm no tuner but have familiarized myself somewhat on what to look for on logs. Make sure you don't have your wastegates turned down too tight.

 

We run protomotive maps only on all our tuned turbos. Most hybrid turbos are running with EBCs as well so we can fine tune the car.

What you need to understand is that there are so many things that affect the running. To give an example we know precisely what 60-130 time a certain map will give. If it doesn't meet it, then the customer doesn't get his car back until we find out why. We had one recently that was 0.5 seconds down - turned out his plugs had never been changed in 37000 miles. New plugs and we gain 0.6 seconds - just that one change - no kidding.

Again, we had a customer who brought a car on the basis that it was remapped. Just normal stage 2 stuff with exhaust. When we done our checks on it, actually it was overboosting because one of the intercoolers inlets was damaged. So it looked like a mapped car e.g. 1.1 bar, but when we stuck in a new intercooler, it was back to 0.7/0.8 bar.

Boost leak check the lot first and foremost. That is from the turbos, from the ICs, actuators, and at the throttle body. Nearly 90% cars we see have boost leaks and the owners don't know.

 

Kevin. I'm going to call you in the morning. If I get a chance, I've just done my k16 build and had a proto map installed. Got a few questions