OP, unless you are looking to drop $20-40k for a motor, please, please, please listen to the advise given to you in your several threads.

Recently I had a friend buy an 84 911 w/491 pkg. He wound up dropping $14k within the first mos. It really took the pleasure out of the car for him.

Several of the most respected folks have offered advise........TAKE IT........... or be prepared to document your rebuild for the forum.

 

Sorry - I shouldn't be so hard on you as you are a new owner.

The waste gate is shut - you need control from N75 to open it.


That 0.7 is limited by the ecu, not mechanically. Most flashes for the K16 stock turbos raise that to 1 bar.

Throwing parts at these cars can be an expensive proposition. Guess how I know that?


Not going to argue with you anymore. You'll figure it out eventually

If you read that thread, you will understand.

Good luck,

Jon

 

yes, it seems some thought engine was programmed to cut out at 1.3 bar to avoid any damage and of course if I was testing without wastegate valve I'd watch computer display very closely. Thanks

 

Edward,
Based on your limited understanding of some of the basic functions of your car, I have a general question about how you are measuring the boost readings on your car.
Are the readings you have reported the boost values at WOT (big skinny pedal all the way to the floor for a few seconds) in 3rd or 4th gear at highway speeds? Or are you reading the boost number while casually driving around city streets at less than WOT?
All of the suggestions people are making assume that you are reporting the WOT boost values.

 

Changed diverter valves, nothing, changed n75 and getting. 6 bar at 5000 rpm regularily.May just go for tune from here. What do you recommend if anything. Thanks

 

I have no recommendations that have not already been proposed to you in this thread or on Rennlist.
The point of my post was to confirm that you are reading the boost gauge under the assumed conditions. WOT, in 3rd or 4th gear, and at around 5K RPM.
I haven't seen anything in your posts that confirms you are doing it this way.
If you are not checking boost under this condition, all of the suggestions provided are moot.

 

You better be sure you found your leak before getting a tune. Otherwise, you're just asking for trouble.

 

I figure if I'm getting .6 bar on stock turbo it cant be much of a leak if any. I plan to really push it tomorrow 0-60 to check HP, time, and bar. Before N75 it was 300HP and 6.5 seconds. I was afraid to read bar during road test.

If it's not much improved then I'll look for leaks again I guess. Had system pressurized to 10 lbs this morning but was losing all the pressure out of the oil filler cap.

What do I do? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

My advise is for you to pay someone to figure it out for you. The cost of having a reputable shop diagnose the issue is a small price to pay considering you don't really know much about these cars.

 

Man, take it in and have it smoke tested, it wont cost more than a few hundred $. It will be money well spent, even if there are only small leaks, or no leaks. Why have you not done that yet after so many people have urged you to do so? Good luck.

 

Bumped for a funny read.
I'm guessing the OP finally went WOT, scared the crap out of himself and moved on from turbo cars.

 

Clean your throttle body, clean the maf, check the air filter, do an e gas reset. All are free and should be done periodically anyway. All these can contribute to cars less than expected operation.