Get the PPI (pre purchase inspection) from a different dealership or independent Porsche shop it's well worth the $150-$300 depending where you go for piece of mind. I bought mine with 11,000 miles just make sure they have records. good luck with your purchase!

 

OH trust me, this place really is no better. Many times over I have seen peoples panties get all bunched up in their **** crack on here. Numerous long term members have left this place for supposedly greener pastures... Only to find that people are all the same where ever you go.
You will make your friends on here and you should come for those people and the info you seek!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

My last car was actually an e92 m3, basically bone stock except for an AFE intake and meisterschaft GT2 exhaust. Going from a 2011 m3 to a 2001 turbo, I did lose alot of the modern commodities but the performance difference is unbelievable. I don't regret it whatsoever. I'm dailying the turbo as well and still don't mind the lack of luxuries. My personal advice would be to PPI the turbo like everyone else recommended. Why not test drive the car yourself as well? If you get to drive it, look at for certain things. Biggest issue would be 2nd gear popout (if manual). Try extending and closing the spoiler as well, the hydraulic system is typical to fail over time. Next would be the clutch accumulator (if manual). Every owner runs into this problem eventually. If the clutch pedal feels a bit heavier than any other 996 turbos you've been in, especially, when you start the car, chances are it's the accumulator

 

Most importantly, TAKE YOUR TIME! There is no rush, the cars are not going anywhere. When you're dealing with a car over 10 years old, it's key to pace yourself on the search for one. No one has ever regretted spending weeks to find the perfect car. I could have easily dived into a 996tt the first day I wanted one but I'm glad I spent a month looking for the right one. The search can be just as exciting as actually getting the car!

 

Get the 911! I drove both an e9x M3 and 997.2 Carrera S back to back. If I could only have one car, I'd probably buy the M3 since it is a really nice comfortable car and more practical. I honestly was a little disappointed with the power though; felt like there was a lack in throttle response. Also feels porky compared to the 911.

I recently bought a 996TT and I'm glad I did; it's much more of a "sports" car than the M3. Not to mention, very easy the get more power out of it.

 

thank you all for your advices...if you know anyone whos real good that can do a ppi for me in the new york area please let me know...and if you guys come across some nice 996tt on the market help a brother out!! thanks!

 

I bought a 5 year old tt with 1,200 miles on it. Granted it was cpo'd but I never had to use the cpo during my 2 years of coverage. The car was practically brand new inside and outside and ran like I champ. I have 25k on the clock now and she still runs hard and strong with no real issues other than ones I have caused by tracking it and at times spinning or hanging two wheels off.

Great car for sure with such capabilities for all kinds of fun. Now she is mostly a track car for me but I just drover her home from Houston (3.5 hours) and she just purred away at 80 mph in 6th with cruise control on.

Then would come those moments whilst testing out my new repaired clutch that I would go into 4rth and mash the throttle and leave cars that were doing 75 and 80 mph 3-5 city blocks behind me in what seemed to be the blink of an eye and one shift. Good luck and enjoy in good health.

 

Jack Daniels Porsche (Saddle River NJ) has a 03 996TT on consignment. It has 12K miles, HRE's (wheels), PCCB (ceramic brakes), Seal Gray (I believe, its indoors, thus hard to determine), black interior(supple leather), invisible wrap (protects paint) and some other stuff. I took a quick look and it looked nice although I cannot vouch for the car. Does anyone know whose car this is? (Sorry, no pics/description of the car on JD website. Car is listed for $64K (if I recall, but am sure there is some room for negotiation). If interested, PM me and I can hook you up with a good sale guy there.

 

64k for a 03? Wow must have X50 as well?

 

If you decide to buy a car with PCCB brakes, I suggest you buy a set of steel brakes and replace the PCCB's and store them away. Steel is easier, cheaper and extremely durable and sufficient braking power for all situations (except perhaps heavy track work). I would consider having PCCB's a liability in the maintenance department ( read = expenses)

 

so many great ideas and input for you to consider. I went from a late model Audi to an early (03) turbo. Candidly, the car is a compromise in almost all respects, except for the brutal acceleration, which is a narcotic to me. I love it, in spite of what I miss. I had one ride in an EVOMS tuned 775 HP car, and I was sold...right there. Then I was off to find mine!
I agree. Don't let this be an impulse buy. Take your time. Each possible transaction is a key learning. also I bought Bone stock, so I could ensure the upgrades are done right. It will cost me more, but cost me less in peace of mind.
Lastly, the low miles may be nice, but I bought mine with 60K miles. This car is way overbuilt. Properly cared for mileage is not a huge factor to me.
And as a result my car cost just more than half of what you are considering, leaving me lots of $ to mod and upgrade. It took awhile, but eventually you find the pristine car (PPI UBER CLEAN) with an owner that is motivated. They do exist!
This is a great forum. Ask questions without feeling ignorant. Everyone wants to help, and is excited for you. Go to school BEFORE spending a penny.

 

yeah im really set on the 996tt just gotta find the right one....so not all of 996tts come with pccb?

 

Great advice...on this one point, I've often felt that it takes many of us a few 'deals' to finally get into that 'right place' to close a deal.

The process of looking, evaluating, deciding, is a learning experience that many just need to go through to be ready.

Don't get anxious- when the right deal happens, YOU'LL know it.

 

Sej-
No, PCCB is actually a fairly uncommon option in my opinion. Just say no to PCCB (deference to others on here who have it).

I cant imagine buying a car, especially one of this complexity, without a THOROUGH pre-purchase inspection (ppi). If any potential seller balks at letting you have one at a place of YOUR choosing, its a red flag.
I know they may be legitimately concerned about taking their car to someone they may not know, but its your peace of mind. I was super ****, right down to checking every switch, bulb, function etc. It took a few hours, including reading the logs (past activity) on the car, and was pleased with outcome. All for under $200. Of course with any car look for respray of paint. CarFax is easy to fool if you don't report it!.

Some of the most common 996TT issues Ive seen on here are:
*rear spoiler hydraulics; fail or leak
*logging shows too many over- revs (6 spd only)
* OEM suspension worn or bushings drying (hi mileage)
* clutch / slave issues (6 spd only!)
* front spoiler worn/cracked from driveways (inexpensive fix)
* RMS (rear main seal) weeping

any others Ive missed? Bueller --anyone?

Lastly, Im still amazed at how much people want for these cars. Yes, they are a Porsche and all that, but be realistic. Set your price before ever seeing the car, and don't get emotional. I waited one deal out, and set a handshake price prior to the PPI. THEN, after results of the PPI, used that as last leverage for reducing it yet again. I walked away with a great example of a 996TT, and found his true bottom line, which was FAR FAR from his asking price which interested me already. This is the fun part!

 

Some other things to look at :
-There are no RMS issues with the Metzer Turbo engine.
- 2nd gear pop-out
- coolant pipes are glued, can pop out and ruin your day
- vacuum (air) leaks can rob you of power ( turbo boost low) and are sometimes difficult to track down
- make sure your shop knows how to change your oil and does not overfill ( dry sump), it could blow your engine.

Cheers