How many owners drive above 3,000 rpm
#31
08-30-2012, 06:54 PM
So, this basically says not to drive the car under 1500rpm at all times. That I can understand since that would be extremely low for any non-diesel engine.
As a side note, when you take a manual driving class, I'm pretty sure they tell you to have the rpm between 2k and 3k rpm in normal city driving.
As a side note, when you take a manual driving class, I'm pretty sure they tell you to have the rpm between 2k and 3k rpm in normal city driving.
#32
08-30-2012, 09:33 PM
Driving a Tip and reading some related threads, as a pure novice ( i am simply a glorified plumber for day job), it appears that around 3K is where you reach increased oil flow??? See thread link below:
Engine oil pump driven directly by engine and its output, max is 60 (or a bit more) liters per minute and is dependent upon engine speed. There is very little residual oil pressure. Once engine speed drops oil pressure folllows almost immediately.
My 03 at idle, hot (engine up to operating temp) idles around 1.5 bar with Mobil 1 0w-40, a bit higher, call it 1.75 bar, with Mobil 1 5w-50. With 10w-40 about the same -- probably couldn't tell the diff -- as Mobil 1 0w-40.
At 3K rpm oil pressure at 4.5 bar maybe a bit higher with Mobil 1 5w-50 oil.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...uctuation.html
Engine oil pump driven directly by engine and its output, max is 60 (or a bit more) liters per minute and is dependent upon engine speed. There is very little residual oil pressure. Once engine speed drops oil pressure folllows almost immediately.
My 03 at idle, hot (engine up to operating temp) idles around 1.5 bar with Mobil 1 0w-40, a bit higher, call it 1.75 bar, with Mobil 1 5w-50. With 10w-40 about the same -- probably couldn't tell the diff -- as Mobil 1 0w-40.
At 3K rpm oil pressure at 4.5 bar maybe a bit higher with Mobil 1 5w-50 oil.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...uctuation.html
#35
08-31-2012, 05:20 AM
first of all, a few cars that failed, that just happen to have parts doesn't make a problem. Having said that, there is no doubt that a heavy flywheel will dampen vibrations better than a light one. Just like dampening pulleys vs light weight pulleys. Then again a lwfw puts less stress/load on the engine and crank during accelerations. Way to many factors. As to the cause of these problems, does anyone really know? There are tons of lwfw's out there and very few problems. I think that short stroke, DOHC engines tend to like high rpm's in the first place.
#36
08-31-2012, 11:43 AM
Lugging the engine is bad. Cruising at 2000 RPM with minimal load is not a problem. If you want to accelerate from there, just down-shift. Maintaining 3000+ RPM is great for the track, but in normal city driving, I don't think you are doing the engine any favours.
Just my 2 cents...
Just my 2 cents...
#37
08-31-2012, 12:44 PM
Lugging the engine is bad. Cruising at 2000 RPM with minimal load is not a problem. If you want to accelerate from there, just down-shift. Maintaining 3000+ RPM is great for the track, but in normal city driving, I don't think you are doing the engine any favours.
Just my 2 cents...
Just my 2 cents...
#38
08-31-2012, 12:56 PM
This makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever, like when I read Excellence Magazine's article on the RUF RGT8 and the editor's "standard low-speed torture test" of driving at 31mph in the highest gear possible and rolling on the throttle to uncover problems with the tune, IMO only uncovers problems with the driver, no offense meant to Mr. Kuah. Downshift to the appropriate gear and drive the car how it was meant to be driven, please don't give your readers ideas on how to beat the he11 out of their engine and tout that the factory cars can as well as any finished RUF product. That is great that it has a refined tune that will pull cleanly from nearly stalling to redline, but unfortunately that is outrageously stressful for the engine internals.
Just my $.02, that's all...
Just my $.02, that's all...
I agree. I did not understand how that is a tuning issue. If you like low end grunt in 6th gear, then go ahead and install a 600 ci, big block with an 8-71. That should work in 6th gear.Besides, who likes the sound of these engines at 2000rpm
, when they sound so good after 3k rpm
#39
08-31-2012, 01:04 PM
My car is at idle or between 5000-7000 rpm, occasionally 4500 rpm. That's it.
But I do have a 5 inch cup car clutch and flywheel.
But I do have a 5 inch cup car clutch and flywheel.
#40
08-31-2012, 01:18 PM
Is the fly wheel the GT3 type? Or is there an actual difference between cup car and GT3 LWFW?
#41
08-31-2012, 02:43 PM
this makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever, like when i read excellence magazine's article on the ruf rgt8 and the editor's "standard low-speed torture test" of driving at 31mph in the highest gear possible and rolling on the throttle to uncover problems with the tune, imo only uncovers problems with the driver, no offense meant to mr. Kuah. Downshift to the appropriate gear and drive the car how it was meant to be driven, please don't give your readers ideas on how to beat the he11 out of their engine and tout that the factory cars can as well as any finished ruf product. That is great that it has a refined tune that will pull cleanly from nearly stalling to redline, but unfortunately that is outrageously stressful for the engine internals.
Just my $.02, that's all...
Just my $.02, that's all...
#42
08-31-2012, 06:34 PM
am almost never outa 4th gear, long trips(very few) ill use 5th or maybe even 6th. 6th demands over 100 and thats a little fast in town
#44
09-01-2012, 01:06 PM
So have we found any documentation that this is even mentioned by Porsche or is Enrique standing to close to the welder again? :-)
I tried to stay above 3k this morning and it is not something the car seems to be geared for unless you shift at 5.5-6k everytime...
I tried to stay above 3k this morning and it is not something the car seems to be geared for unless you shift at 5.5-6k everytime...
