996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

A few basic K16-16g questions

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  #16  
Old 10-04-2012, 08:25 PM
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I went from stock k16s to epl 16g turbos with a 5bar and the difference was huge. It had virtually no lag and it was pretty damn fast. I can't even imagine how much faster the big turbo cars are. But for me, that car was more than fast enough. I never had clutch problems, but I never launched it either. If you decide to go with any of the 16g versions you won't be disappointed, unless of course you drive one with bigger turbos. Its a slippery slope.
 
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:41 PM
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i have old 16/24's with supporting stuff ( i/c's 5 bar etc ) and there is no lag at all up to 1.2 ..1.3 on holidays. it's enough for anyone, on any given day. especially if coming from a stock k16 car. the top end of the 24's is impressive, even if i don't ever see it. ain't nothing wrong with some old school hybrids,.. my point.
 
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Old 04-04-2015, 07:23 PM
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AMS 500 tune(vivid racing)

Hey guys, i have a 2002 996 turbo and was wondering if anyone has done the AMS SR500+ tune and how that has worked for them. I know i'll have to change plugs but Im wondering if anyone knows if it will indeed put my car close to 520-550 hp range(at crank of course). It's $1800 but there is another VR tune that claims 495 hp, can anyone validate this? Thank you ahead of time.
FeaturesAMS 500 tune)
Up to 550HP gain
Full rpm range remap
Reduces or eliminates DBW lag
2 step launch control
Completely reversible
OEM reliability
Includes:
Flashing cable
New ECU calibration file
AMS 1 bar wastegate actuators
5 Bar Fuel Pressure Regulato[/COLOR]r
 
  #19  
Old 04-05-2015, 10:03 AM
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* the issue i would ( do!? ) have with that "list" is it does' not appear to itemize the upgraded parts that would be obvious to any tuner or enthusiast that has down this stuff.

all i see is a flash, a cable to a 5bar fpr and 1.0 wastegates. close to 500 crank? but only just that.
 
  #20  
Old 04-05-2015, 10:34 AM
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I wouldn't do the 5 bar. Get injectors instead. Also, you'll need to log and send that back to the tuner to ensure your car is running correctly. One last thing off The top of my head. Clutch.
 
  #21  
Old 04-05-2015, 11:56 AM
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AMS 500 tune(vivid racing)

They say all I need to have 520 to 550 at the crank is to do their tune and replace the wastegate actuators with 1 bar actuators and a 5 bar fuel pressure regulator. I've heard I need to change to a colder range plug but not sure which ones I should get. Also what is a 2 step launch control? I just want over 500hp and keep my daily reliability. I truly believe if you need a car for everything everyday, the 911 turbo is the ultimate car. I am a very critical car fan for over 25 years and man, this car is perfect.
 
  #22  
Old 04-05-2015, 12:24 PM
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Are you talking about just a flash on stock turbos? If so a 5 bar (or injectors) and 1bar actuators are not needed for a flash on stock turbos.

Most tuners say you get about an 80 crank hp gain from a 1bar tune with exhaust. The only thing I needed when I did the flash was colder plugs to get rid of a bad misfire. My clutch also couldn't hold the added power when I would slam through the gears.
 
  #23  
Old 04-05-2015, 06:27 PM
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AMS 500 tune(vivid racing)

Yes, stock turbos, exhaust, everything except actuators, flash, and 5 bar fuel regulator. They say " The OEM wastegate actuators are set at .7 bar which is fine on a stock vehicle but once the boost levels are raised significantly, the OEM actuators will blow open under boost. This hurts performance by not allowing you to hold your target boost level to redline or even worse not allowing you to reach the desired level at all."
 
  #24  
Old 04-05-2015, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sanderhank
Yes, stock turbos, exhaust, everything except actuators, flash, and 5 bar fuel regulator. They say " The OEM wastegate actuators are set at .7 bar which is fine on a stock vehicle but once the boost levels are raised significantly, the OEM actuators will blow open under boost. This hurts performance by not allowing you to hold your target boost level to redline or even worse not allowing you to reach the desired level at all."


I've read that more than once but it is not telling the whole story. The amount of pressure seen by the actuator is controlled which is exactly what allows you to run higher boost than the actuator spring is rated for. The general rule of thumb in the turbo world is the spring should be rated at the "lowest" desired pressure and are good for double the rating. So the stock .7bar spring should be fine until 1.4 Bar. It may help smooth boost engagement and help prevent boost spikes but not everyone has that issue when running higher than stock boost.


An internal wastegate must be tuned for the specific boost pressure that is needed. Having a spring combination that is close to the desired boost pressure will result in a reduction in turbocharger spool up time and better control of pressure at higher engine speeds.


This quote is from a very well known and respected Turbo company.


The springs that are installed in either an internal or external wastegate should be rated to the lowest boost pressure desired. The lowest boost level achieved cannot be lower than the spring rating as the spring only begins to allow the valve to open at the pressure rating of the spring.



With a boost controller installed, a general rule of thumb is that the maximum boost level that can be achieved safely is double what the spring is rated to. If your target boost pressure is 20 PSI, a minimum spring rating of 10 PSI is recommended. This gives the wastegate more control over the exhaust gas. If the spring rating is too low, as boost levels climb and exhaust flow rates increase, the flow of exhaust can influence the valve more as the only force trying to close it is the spring force.

If the spring is too soft, even with no pressure signal to the actuator, the valve will open if there is enough exhaust back pressure, which will limit the amount of boost produced by the turbocharger.
 

Last edited by NTIMD8; 04-05-2015 at 06:55 PM.
  #25  
Old 04-05-2015, 06:49 PM
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Here is my opinion,
You want to keep your wgs stock on a oem k16 turbo. A good tune via logs vs just a Otc flash will go a long way.
If these were k24s then yes you can add a 5 bar and wgs set them to 1.2 bar and a proper tune will go a long way.
The one issue I have with some that just throw wgs on is that they do not set them correctly - you need a hand pump with a guage and have rhem crap open when where your tuner asks you to otherwise you may get yourself in a lot of trouble.
Datalogs and tuning adjustments Im most cases are required. It's not just going to work on its own.
Good luck
Markski
 
  #26  
Old 04-05-2015, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MARKSKI@911tuning
Here is my opinion,
You want to keep your wgs stock on a oem k16 turbo. A good tune via logs vs just a Otc flash will go a long way.
If these were k24s then yes you can add a 5 bar and wgs set them to 1.2 bar and a proper tune will go a long way.
The one issue I have with some that just throw wgs on is that they do not set them correctly - you need a hand pump with a guage and have them crack open when and where your tuner asks you to otherwise you may get yourself in a lot of trouble.
Datalogs and tuning adjustments Im most cases are required. It's not just going to work on its own.
Good luck
Markski

Listen to this guy. He knows his stuff. PS, I fixed a couple of his typos since I don't think he meant "crap" open.
 
  #27  
Old 04-05-2015, 07:49 PM
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AMS 500 tune(vivid racing)

Thanks guys, automatic btw. So I could just use their flash and change plugs and I should be good with everything else stock? So you are saying changing the wastegate actuators would be bad unless I installed them correctly and I may as well just leave everything stock if all I'm doing is a flash?
 
  #28  
Old 04-05-2015, 07:51 PM
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AMS 500 tune(vivid racing)

And if I put on an exhaust, new air box, bigger plenum, things to improve airflow, then I would need those wastegate actuators and 5 bar fpr?
 
  #29  
Old 04-06-2015, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sanderhank
And if I put on an exhaust, new air box, bigger plenum, things to improve airflow, then I would need those wastegate actuators and 5 bar fpr?
all that will do you nothing more then waste money...
I mean exhaust is good, a bmc filter, leave the plenum alone... if anything get some good intercoolers... k16s on stock WGs with a good tune is the right way.... when you do k16 billets then they will oem with 1 bar wgs and you either run a 5 bar for 1.2 bar max boost or injectors...
stock k16s with wgs will produce blobs of heat plus they have no pull after 1 bar... they choke...
 
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  #30  
Old 04-06-2015, 02:46 PM
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So if the AMS tune suggests those and I don't use them, will I still get the 18-20% hp increase or does the program account for those parts? The only reason I ask is Vivid Racing does a tune and claims an 80 hp increase while the AMS tune claims 100-130 hp increase and I would just rather get the most hp I can this way. Thanks guys, big help.
 


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