Getting an alignment--Whats a good street setup?
Getting an alignment--Whats a good street setup?
Im scheduled for an alignment and want some good STREET setup suggestions. I've read other posts about gt2 etc., but I want real life setups that provide good wear and yet wont make driving numb.
Thanks for all your suggestions
Thanks for all your suggestions
You'll need to give us a whole lot more info if you want good advice. If your car has any suspension mods, been lowered, etc... That will affect any alignment numbers.
My car has H&R springs which lowered it about an inch. That led to my rear camber being stuck at -2.0/-2.1. The stock front/rear camber is about a 1 degree difference between the two for stock settings. When I had an alignment done, the front had to be kept to -1.2 to balance the front and rear, it was scary running less camber in front.
Your tires will also make a difference, word of advice, do NOT buy Hankook tires for the rear, sidewall is way too soft, handling is much worse with them.
My car has H&R springs which lowered it about an inch. That led to my rear camber being stuck at -2.0/-2.1. The stock front/rear camber is about a 1 degree difference between the two for stock settings. When I had an alignment done, the front had to be kept to -1.2 to balance the front and rear, it was scary running less camber in front.
Your tires will also make a difference, word of advice, do NOT buy Hankook tires for the rear, sidewall is way too soft, handling is much worse with them.
TXTurbo, good point. I had Champion springs and it was to low, so installed coil overs and raised it about 3/8" in the rear, and left the front about the same height (measurement to wheel well fr 25 3/8 and rear 25 5/8). I went a little higher in the rear to allow for less camber and Im running 265-30-19 and 315-25-19 (nitto invo). I never had any wear issues with the rear the way it was aligned previously, but my rear shocks were worn and had lots of bounce so I replaced with coilovers. Im having Champion Motorsports do the alignment so Im sure they know what to do, but many folks have successfully tried variations of the standard GT2, x-73, etc, so Im looking for advise on which way to turn.
Previously, my car was twitchy and felt very unstable at speeds over 125. My biggest concern is tire wear vs numbness. I dont want a caddy feel, but dont want to eat tires, especially with the difficulties finding 315/25s
When looking for my car, I drove a few that were numb but seemed to have many miles on the tires, so I want something in-between and of course, many folks here have more experience than I do, so if you have any suggestions, please let em rip.
Previously, my car was twitchy and felt very unstable at speeds over 125. My biggest concern is tire wear vs numbness. I dont want a caddy feel, but dont want to eat tires, especially with the difficulties finding 315/25s
When looking for my car, I drove a few that were numb but seemed to have many miles on the tires, so I want something in-between and of course, many folks here have more experience than I do, so if you have any suggestions, please let em rip.
Last edited by 03 996tt; Sep 27, 2012 at 12:49 PM. Reason: correction
If you are able to adjust for the coilovers to give you a reasonable rear camber number, I would suggest going for -1.4 rear, and -.6 to -.8 in the front. That should give plenty of tire life, and make the car feel a bit more stable. Toe-in I have at .1 in the rear, and 0 in the front.
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I have a stage 2 track alignment on mine which I find very satisfactory. Mind you I do have pss9s drop links strut braces and adjustable sways. Depends on how you drive I take mine up in the hills often so need the turn in. If I were you start with a stage two track alignment and work out what you want. All they do is lower the front a little turn in the front wheels and camber the rears. You will end up with excellent turn in and straight line stability.
Last edited by timccloud; Sep 27, 2012 at 05:17 PM.
Alignment complete and the car is much less twitchy at highway speeds (haven't been over 80 yet) Only real complaint is the steering wheel is not 100% straight. Kinda disappointed about it, but they said they will correct next time I get up to them.
Here's the specs, any thoughts?
Here's the specs, any thoughts?
The best alignment is going to depend on your particular tastes and how you use the car. A good street alignment with stock suspension would be:
Front camber: As much negative as possible (likely to be only about -0.3-0.4 with stock suspension)
Front toe: 0"
Rear camber: -1.5
Rear toe: 1/32" out (1/16" total)
For a more aggressive setup for somebody that wants better turn-in on the street, and in particular if you track your car:
Front camber: As much negative as possible (likely to be only about -0.3-0.4 with stock suspension)
Front toe: 1/16" in (1/8" total)
Rear camber: -2.0
Rear toe: 1/16" out (1/8" total)
What suspension setup do you have now that you can fit that big a front tire on? Have you modified your fender liner so they don't rub? People have issues running a 245/35-19 and I've never heard of going up to a 265...
Front camber: As much negative as possible (likely to be only about -0.3-0.4 with stock suspension)
Front toe: 0"
Rear camber: -1.5
Rear toe: 1/32" out (1/16" total)
For a more aggressive setup for somebody that wants better turn-in on the street, and in particular if you track your car:
Front camber: As much negative as possible (likely to be only about -0.3-0.4 with stock suspension)
Front toe: 1/16" in (1/8" total)
Rear camber: -2.0
Rear toe: 1/16" out (1/8" total)
What suspension setup do you have now that you can fit that big a front tire on? Have you modified your fender liner so they don't rub? People have issues running a 245/35-19 and I've never heard of going up to a 265...
Teflon, I have no rubbing issues although I dont go full lock often. The 235/35 nitto's weren't wide enough (ill post pics later) and looked stretched on my 8.5 or 9" rims (I cant remember), and the 265/35 were but a half inch wider than the 235/35 pirellis I removed. I will say that the steering use to be lighter to the touch before the extra width and weight, but nothing I cant handle.
As you can see from the specs above, its a very conservative alignment although I wish I had more neg camber in the front.
Now for the flame part: I am using ksport coil overs. While many here dont like them and call them cheap imitations, I couldnt handle the harshness of the factory shocks and lowering springs and needed something that was wife approved for a car I only drive 2k miles per year. My shocks may have been worn although I doubt it with only 14k miles, but it was very tiring to drive the car, so for the price I paid for the Ksport's, and doing the install myself, I can justify removing them in a few years, if necessary, and going another route.
While I haven't driven but 250 miles since the install, so far, the ride is much softer and less bouncy then before. Ill do a review of them after I have some miles on them.
As you can see from the specs above, its a very conservative alignment although I wish I had more neg camber in the front.
Now for the flame part: I am using ksport coil overs. While many here dont like them and call them cheap imitations, I couldnt handle the harshness of the factory shocks and lowering springs and needed something that was wife approved for a car I only drive 2k miles per year. My shocks may have been worn although I doubt it with only 14k miles, but it was very tiring to drive the car, so for the price I paid for the Ksport's, and doing the install myself, I can justify removing them in a few years, if necessary, and going another route.
While I haven't driven but 250 miles since the install, so far, the ride is much softer and less bouncy then before. Ill do a review of them after I have some miles on them.
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