996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

tire wear/suspension setup

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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 06:36 PM
  #16  
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I know Max. I'm pretty close to their shop, and they've worked on it before. Are these the type of links you have?

http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Con...nfo/S70.10.41/
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 07:30 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Bobbyfali
You say it "absolutely transformed the car".

Did you do all the suspension mods at once or peice by piece?

If you did all at once how do you know it wasn't one mod that made the most difference or the effects of individual components?

To start to lower these car your told H&R coil overs are not good enough and at minimum you need $3000 PSS10 + 1000 labour to install and align. Then if you want to really lower more then .75" you must go with $3800 KW V3's. You also need dog bones, toe links, GT3 LCA front and back or else your $5000 worth of coilovers and install is not"done" properly.

So over $10 000 just to lower your car "properly" and that is for someone that will just street drive your car!

Really!!

The question is what is REALLY needed on these street cars and I believe someone in this thread (pwdrhound thanks BTW!) finally gave us real world realistic answer.

Enough of this , "you need all cup suspension to do it right", just because it is a "Porsche". 80% of the people will NEVER truly realize the difference or needs these components period.

Thanks

Bobby Ali

ba
Car came with pss9, which I changed to KW clubsports, at a later time I installed the RSS setup complete. The RSS parts transformed the car, tire wear mostly noticed on the track was improved dramatically, on the street as well.

If you bought the car to polish and cruise in then dont waste your time...



Originally Posted by King James
Most of the people who say this don't have the driving skills to max the car is stock form... It's called elitist bull****.

Proper track setups have their place and will help even an amateur driver but unless your serious about tracking your car it's a waste of money for the average guy just ripping on the streets.

I know a few guys who teach driving schools and are amazing drivers. They laugh at guys showing up with 10k suspensions who are passed by them in a Jetta TDI at the track. I see the same thing at the golf course, lots of money for the best clubs, shoots 100, blames it on equipment and wind. My clubs are 6 years old and I shoot in the 70s, it's called skill and practice.
Lol
 
Old Feb 21, 2013 | 12:34 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TMWTP
I know Max. I'm pretty close to their shop, and they've worked on it before. Are these the type of links you have?

http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Con...nfo/S70.10.41/
The link below is for the toe arms I use. They are excellent. No issues with wear whatsoever after being on the car for the last 15K miles with numerous track days over the last two years. Zero noise...

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm
 
Old Feb 21, 2013 | 01:28 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Bobbyfali
You say it "absolutely transformed the car".

Did you do all the suspension mods at once or peice by piece?

If you did all at once how do you know it wasn't one mod that made the most difference or the effects of individual components?

To start to lower these car your told H&R coil overs are not good enough and at minimum you need $3000 PSS10 + 1000 labour to install and align. Then if you want to really lower more then .75" you must go with $3800 KW V3's. You also need dog bones, toe links, GT3 LCA front and back or else your $5000 worth of coilovers and install is not"done" properly.

So over $10 000 just to lower your car "properly" and that is for someone that will just street drive your car!

Really!!

The question is what is REALLY needed on these street cars and I believe someone in this thread (pwdrhound thanks BTW!) finally gave us real world realistic answer.

Enough of this , "you need all cup suspension to do it right", just because it is a "Porsche". 80% of the people will NEVER truly realize the difference or needs these components period.

Thanks

Bobby Ali

ba
You know Bobby, it all depends what you want out of the car. Are you setting it up for the track or mainly the street? I've gone through several set ups and have a pretty objective opinion on it. My Rturbo was initially set up by RUF as a street car with the RUF PSS9 suspension which included the RUF rear sway bar. This was a very nice street set up but was later swapped over to the H&R coilover suspension (including the much stiffer H&R rear swaybar) which lowered the car a little more. As a result of the lowering (which was right at GT2 height when set up per the H&R specifications) the rear toe arms were needed to keep the toe setting in check. In addition, rear dog bones were installed. The result was a great handling car which performed great at the track as well as the street. The rear dog bones were a bit noisy due to the spherical rod ends so I took them off and replaced them with the OEM units. This simple change make the suspension OEM quiet and with all other components stock I was able to max out my front camber at -1.9 and the rear set at -2.0 with 1.0mm total toe front and rear. Tire wear remained excellent with these settings. Performance wise I could not tell any difference having a little rubber in the OEM dog bones versus the aftermarket ones with the spherical ends. In this form, the car was very formidable at the track running on R compound 235/315 tires easily hanging with or surpassing many GT3s and even RSs on occasion in the orange and black run groups. All this on a $2K set of H&R coilovers, $300 H&R sway bar and $450 toe arms. I know many guys here will frown on the H&R coilovers because the shocks are not adjustable but this is basically the same suspension that comes stock on the GT2, GT3, and the GT3RS. Those OEM coils are make by H&R and the shocks are not adjustable either. The H&R set up is valved spot on for the spring rates and I wouldn't mess with it even if I could. I really like that set up.

I later added the front lower GT3 adjustable control arms which allowed me to add some shims and increase the front camber to -2.3 which really dialed the car in at the track. I also removed the fwd system and added a Guard LSD. The LSD was by far the best performance mod done to the car, but that's another story.

Last year, I sold the H&R suspension to a local buyer who has it on his car and is very happy with it on and off the track. I ended up installing a JRZ RS suspension with 600/800 spring rates and full monoball upper mounts. Yes, it did make the car razor sharp, very responsive yet settled at the track. I did shave close to 2 seconds on a 2.5 mile racetrack (2:01 v. 2:03). This however came at the expense of a much more expensive coilover set up, a much harsher ride on the street, and quite a bit more noise transmitted into the cabin of the car due to the monoball mounts. I am chasing the 2 min mark at my track so the expense was worth it to me and I very rarely drive my car on the street anymore. Would I go this route on a DD car? No way.

I think a lot of guys will spend $8-10K on a track ready dual or triple adjustable suspension set up on their street driven car and then end up talking it up like it's the greatest thing since sliced bread, a must have on your street DD 996TT! I don't know but I think it's a way for many to justify the cost and make themselves feel good about the purchase at the end of the day. I call it the way I see it. For a street car that may see a few days each year at your local track, get a good set of coilovers like the PSS, KW, or the H&Rs, lower it to a height specified in the instructions, add rear toe arms and a stiffer rear sway bar. Max out the front camber, keep the rear camber at -2.0, go with min toe in front and rear and be done with it. Your tires will thank you. Happy motoring!
 
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