tire wear/suspension setup
I know Max. I'm pretty close to their shop, and they've worked on it before. Are these the type of links you have?
http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Con...nfo/S70.10.41/
http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Con...nfo/S70.10.41/
You say it "absolutely transformed the car".
Did you do all the suspension mods at once or peice by piece?
If you did all at once how do you know it wasn't one mod that made the most difference or the effects of individual components?
To start to lower these car your told H&R coil overs are not good enough and at minimum you need $3000 PSS10 + 1000 labour to install and align. Then if you want to really lower more then .75" you must go with $3800 KW V3's. You also need dog bones, toe links, GT3 LCA front and back or else your $5000 worth of coilovers and install is not"done" properly.
So over $10 000 just to lower your car "properly" and that is for someone that will just street drive your car!
Really!!
The question is what is REALLY needed on these street cars and I believe someone in this thread (pwdrhound thanks BTW!) finally gave us real world realistic answer.
Enough of this , "you need all cup suspension to do it right", just because it is a "Porsche". 80% of the people will NEVER truly realize the difference or needs these components period.
Thanks
Bobby Ali
ba
Did you do all the suspension mods at once or peice by piece?
If you did all at once how do you know it wasn't one mod that made the most difference or the effects of individual components?
To start to lower these car your told H&R coil overs are not good enough and at minimum you need $3000 PSS10 + 1000 labour to install and align. Then if you want to really lower more then .75" you must go with $3800 KW V3's. You also need dog bones, toe links, GT3 LCA front and back or else your $5000 worth of coilovers and install is not"done" properly.
So over $10 000 just to lower your car "properly" and that is for someone that will just street drive your car!
Really!!
The question is what is REALLY needed on these street cars and I believe someone in this thread (pwdrhound thanks BTW!) finally gave us real world realistic answer.
Enough of this , "you need all cup suspension to do it right", just because it is a "Porsche". 80% of the people will NEVER truly realize the difference or needs these components period.
Thanks
Bobby Ali
ba
If you bought the car to polish and cruise in then dont waste your time...
Most of the people who say this don't have the driving skills to max the car is stock form... It's called elitist bull****.
Proper track setups have their place and will help even an amateur driver but unless your serious about tracking your car it's a waste of money for the average guy just ripping on the streets.
I know a few guys who teach driving schools and are amazing drivers. They laugh at guys showing up with 10k suspensions who are passed by them in a Jetta TDI at the track. I see the same thing at the golf course, lots of money for the best clubs, shoots 100, blames it on equipment and wind. My clubs are 6 years old and I shoot in the 70s, it's called skill and practice.
Proper track setups have their place and will help even an amateur driver but unless your serious about tracking your car it's a waste of money for the average guy just ripping on the streets.
I know a few guys who teach driving schools and are amazing drivers. They laugh at guys showing up with 10k suspensions who are passed by them in a Jetta TDI at the track. I see the same thing at the golf course, lots of money for the best clubs, shoots 100, blames it on equipment and wind. My clubs are 6 years old and I shoot in the 70s, it's called skill and practice.
I know Max. I'm pretty close to their shop, and they've worked on it before. Are these the type of links you have?
http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Con...nfo/S70.10.41/

http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Con...nfo/S70.10.41/
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm
You say it "absolutely transformed the car".
Did you do all the suspension mods at once or peice by piece?
If you did all at once how do you know it wasn't one mod that made the most difference or the effects of individual components?
To start to lower these car your told H&R coil overs are not good enough and at minimum you need $3000 PSS10 + 1000 labour to install and align. Then if you want to really lower more then .75" you must go with $3800 KW V3's. You also need dog bones, toe links, GT3 LCA front and back or else your $5000 worth of coilovers and install is not"done" properly.
So over $10 000 just to lower your car "properly" and that is for someone that will just street drive your car!
Really!!
The question is what is REALLY needed on these street cars and I believe someone in this thread (pwdrhound thanks BTW!) finally gave us real world realistic answer.
Enough of this , "you need all cup suspension to do it right", just because it is a "Porsche". 80% of the people will NEVER truly realize the difference or needs these components period.
Thanks
Bobby Ali
ba
Did you do all the suspension mods at once or peice by piece?
If you did all at once how do you know it wasn't one mod that made the most difference or the effects of individual components?
To start to lower these car your told H&R coil overs are not good enough and at minimum you need $3000 PSS10 + 1000 labour to install and align. Then if you want to really lower more then .75" you must go with $3800 KW V3's. You also need dog bones, toe links, GT3 LCA front and back or else your $5000 worth of coilovers and install is not"done" properly.
So over $10 000 just to lower your car "properly" and that is for someone that will just street drive your car!
Really!!
The question is what is REALLY needed on these street cars and I believe someone in this thread (pwdrhound thanks BTW!) finally gave us real world realistic answer.
Enough of this , "you need all cup suspension to do it right", just because it is a "Porsche". 80% of the people will NEVER truly realize the difference or needs these components period.
Thanks
Bobby Ali
ba
I later added the front lower GT3 adjustable control arms which allowed me to add some shims and increase the front camber to -2.3 which really dialed the car in at the track. I also removed the fwd system and added a Guard LSD. The LSD was by far the best performance mod done to the car, but that's another story.
Last year, I sold the H&R suspension to a local buyer who has it on his car and is very happy with it on and off the track. I ended up installing a JRZ RS suspension with 600/800 spring rates and full monoball upper mounts. Yes, it did make the car razor sharp, very responsive yet settled at the track. I did shave close to 2 seconds on a 2.5 mile racetrack (2:01 v. 2:03). This however came at the expense of a much more expensive coilover set up, a much harsher ride on the street, and quite a bit more noise transmitted into the cabin of the car due to the monoball mounts. I am chasing the 2 min mark at my track so the expense was worth it to me and I very rarely drive my car on the street anymore. Would I go this route on a DD car? No way.
I think a lot of guys will spend $8-10K on a track ready dual or triple adjustable suspension set up on their street driven car and then end up talking it up like it's the greatest thing since sliced bread, a must have on your street DD 996TT! I don't know but I think it's a way for many to justify the cost and make themselves feel good about the purchase at the end of the day. I call it the way I see it. For a street car that may see a few days each year at your local track, get a good set of coilovers like the PSS, KW, or the H&Rs, lower it to a height specified in the instructions, add rear toe arms and a stiffer rear sway bar. Max out the front camber, keep the rear camber at -2.0, go with min toe in front and rear and be done with it. Your tires will thank you. Happy motoring!
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