Just waiting for my clutch t go!

 

I'm not questioning you or the tuner used. I was simply saying without a timestamp, you can't compare the two sets of datapoints for acceleration. But there's no question the IAT and general performance of the car improves given the changes you made with intake & intercoolers.

Durametrics certainly uses a timestamp next to each corresponding datapoint, but it's not a 100% linear time stamp (as you obviously have more datapoints in one chart than the next). So since acceleration = velocity / time, it's tough to really compare anything acceleration or spool up speed when the time portion isn't available.

No bashing here at all though. Certainly appreciate your feedback and good results. It just sounds like the physical data you have is limited to what was already posted. Good stuff though and appreciated.

 

Yes I upgraded everything at once. I can tell you with Alpha 28s
intake, big intercoolers and hoses. Boost is almost instantaneous

 

ok Men this is my 2cents into the intake pipe thread.

I have a 550 maybe 600hp Prototuned weapon with Markskis FANTASTIC flexi-tube intake pipes which are a huge improvement over standard how much i cannot say.

What I can say is if you doing this mod get rid of the rubber piece of crap hose that joins the oem airbox to the alloy pipe and replace it with a 90mm ID Silicon Hump Hose clamped down with some nice strong T-Bolt Clamps.

Ties the whole system together very nicely and about 300% more rigid over over the aforementioned piece of crap.

look forward to hearing ur results.

Cheers,
Tim

 

That's a nice package and a fun one..
Those A28s are known for that kind of response

 

Tim, can you elaborate as to any weakness in this part or performance reason for replacing it? This is the first I have heard of changing it out.

 

The OEM tube that joins the air box to the aluminum intake is flexible for a reason. The air box is essentially hard mounted to the chassis of the car (yes there are rubber grommets but they do not allow any movement). The OEM coupler tube is flexible to that it allows the engine to move around without putting undue strain on the aluminum intake which is hard mounted to the engine, or specifically the composite intake manifold on top of the engine. Yes, the same one people are cracking in another thread here..

 

I found the original rubber crap was to weak, to short and hard to clamp with T-bolt clamps. I could not get the rubber hose to clamp correctly, it actually came away from the alloy pipes causing a leak after the MAF.

Then found the new alloy pipes were floundering around with the OEM hose. Once fitting the Hump Hose the unit becomes much more solid and stable.

I have a 3" Y pipe fed from wagner IC's with expanding silicon hoses 2.5" to 3". The 3" Y pipe does limit the room more so and you may not experience the same issues with a stock Y pipe. I have semi solid engine and gearbox mounts, I find most worm drive clamps come loose and give me boost leak issues so I only use T-Bolt clamps that are permanently thread sealed everywhere.

But for the 10 bucks the hump hose costs the clamping power of T bolt clamps and half an hour it takes to fit what do you have to lose?

The rubber hose it great for the stock intake pipes as they bolt in position but are just not satisfactory for the alloy section of marks fantastic intake pipes that did not (mine at least) come with any provision to bolt in the same position.

The sillicon Hump Hose with the T bolts solve the issue.

Hope I didnt ramble to much been up all night fitting my new alternator.

 

Yeah yeah its still flexible thats the idea of the hump. Its just not as flexible as that rubber crap. Everyone ones situation is different it was just my 2cents. All i can say is the intake pipes are worth every cent and so is the hump hose

 

I'm using Markski's flex tubes and the factory plastic connector out of the factory ****box on 1.6/.7 boost. No issues. Just do the flex tubes.