996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

GT2 Slave Conversion Opinion

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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 03:41 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by aggk
If all you're looking for is a better clutch engagement feel why not first try removing the clutch assist spring?
did that now the cruise control doesnt work. so i now have to replace the spring with a lighter version and reinstall it. big pain!
any advantage to doing m style vs aftermarket bracket? cost difference for the 2?
 
Old Mar 20, 2013 | 03:43 PM
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Oh I understand that there's more benefits to the conversion over just removing the assist spring. It just seems like a worthwhile first move since it doesn't cost anything.

I absolutely hated the clutch feel and stalled constantly until I removed the assist spring. I haven't had any problems since. If I start to have the failing parts issue then I may go further to the conversion.

Luckily I don't ever use cruise control.
 
Old Mar 20, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Also One of my next wishes, but my Problem is to find one shop in germany who is offering and installing it and has some experience with it...somebody knows more?
 
Old Mar 20, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by aggk
If all you're looking for is a better clutch engagement feel why not first try removing the clutch assist spring?
Because the stock powered system sucks and removing a spring isn't going to solve that
 
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Anyone knows a dealer in Germany whos selling these kits?
 
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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A couple months ago I noticed that my clutch suddenly developed a strange"stepped" feel to it...it would push in freely till about 1/2 way then(around the time the clutch likely disengaged) become stiffer and felt like itwas grinding on something all the way to the floor. Same thing in the other direction, from the floor up it was rough feeling, then about 1/2 way up, it would free up. Stranger still, it only did this when the engine was running.

Based on this, the shop thought it must have been the accumulator (the clutch was stiff 1st thing in the morning and had a vague, varying pick up point etc so in fairness that probably was going bad anyway) so we decided to scrap the whole system and do the GT2 conversion.

Picked the car up and now I have a much stiffer version of the same problem. Feels like its grinding/rubbing from the floor till about 1/2 way up. Gets worse the more I use the clutch in a day. I do have a LWFW and HD Clutch so maybe that's a factor.

Sorry to sidetrack the discussion but I thought maybe someone on this thread might have some ideas as to what is causing all of this. I was hoping to enjoy this "mod" but unfortunately, I'm not benefiting from it at all.

Any thoughts?
 

Last edited by SnohomishX-50; Mar 21, 2013 at 08:00 PM.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
did that now the cruise control doesnt work. so i now have to replace the spring with a lighter version and reinstall it. big pain!
any advantage to doing m style vs aftermarket bracket? cost difference for the 2?
Same exact problem after removing the clutch assist spring. Pedal doesn't extend far enough back by 1/4 - 1/2 of an inch to actuate the clutch switch.

Also, I had a ridiculous time getting the assist spring back in. Took 2 hours and the skin off the knuckles on both hands.
 
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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i'm doin this in my build and thanks for this thread
 
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SnohomishX-50
A couple months ago I noticed that my clutch suddenly developed a strange"stepped" feel to it...it would push in freely till about 1/2 way then(around the time the clutch likely disengaged) become stiffer and felt like itwas grinding on something all the way to the floor. Same thing in the other direction, from the floor up it was rough feeling, then about 1/2 way up, it would free up. Stranger still, it only did this when the engine was running.

Based on this, the shop thought it must have been the accumulator (the clutch was stiff 1st thing in the morning and had a vague, varying pick up point etc so in fairness that probably was going bad anyway) so we decided to scrap the whole system and do the GT2 conversion.

Picked the car up and now I have a much stiffer version of the same problem. Feels like its grinding/rubbing from the floor till about 1/2 way up. Gets worse the more I use the clutch in a day. I do have a LWFW and HD Clutch so maybe that's a factor.

Sorry to sidetrack the discussion but I thought maybe someone on this thread might have some ideas as to what is causing all of this. I was hoping to enjoy this "mod" but unfortunately, I'm not benefiting from it at all.

Any thoughts?
What does your shop think now? Check the pedal itself for integrity first, but I think something inside the clutch assembly is worn, broken or sticking and probably requires a transmission out diagnosis...Those are my thoughts.

You could remove the slave from the case and see if it's smooth - that would tell you if the problem is before or inside the case...
 
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Last edited by John@SpeedTech; Mar 21, 2013 at 09:08 PM.
Old Mar 22, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ek9max
I agree.
x2. Do it - dont think twice.
 
Old Mar 28, 2013 | 03:32 PM
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What is the purpose in changing out the master cylinder? From the looks of it the GT2 master looks exactly like mine except mine has a green eye bolt connection at the clutch.
 
Old Mar 28, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by scottr126
What is the purpose in changing out the master cylinder? From the looks of it the GT2 master looks exactly like mine except mine has a green eye bolt connection at the clutch.
The seals in the stock master are designed for pentosin, the GT2 master for brake fluid.
 
Old Mar 28, 2013 | 04:28 PM
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Pwdrhound has it right...

Here is my response to you on the 997TT forum:

Originally Posted by John@SpeedTech
Hi Scott,

Outside the masters look identical for fitment reasons, inside they are completely different. One is designed for pentosin and the other for DOT brake fluid. Using the worong one in either application will result in rapid failure of the master cylinder.

It is not mandatory to use the spring, but the pedal effort will be harder, if you choose not to replace the spring...

Also, it is important to use a braided steel line vs. the OEM rubber style for this application. The entire kit is designed to provide a reliable and consistent long term solution. Cutting corners on this upgrade will yield nothing but problems down the road. The kit as shown above, however, will run flawlessly for years.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
The seals in the stock master are designed for pentosin, the GT2 master for brake fluid.
Interesting. Has anyone actually ever had one fail or tested this? I would think if the seal was good enough for pentosin it would be fine with standard brake fluid.
 
Old Mar 29, 2013 | 08:02 AM
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Yes, I know of a few and it only takes a few days to a week or so to happen...
 
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