Suspension Install Question
Suspension Install Question
Hey guys,
This weekend Im performing a complete suspension overhaul (among other things).
I plan on installing a set of used shocks with H&R springs on them. I will also be replacing my inner/outer tie rods and endlinks.
Ive been reading the DIYs on the coilover installs and most of them show removing the spindle.
My question is....
Is removing the spindle really necessary?
Ive done at least a dozen suspension swaps in my day and have never had to do that. Not really sure why I dont want to (fear of the unknown?).
Thanks for any help.
This weekend Im performing a complete suspension overhaul (among other things).
I plan on installing a set of used shocks with H&R springs on them. I will also be replacing my inner/outer tie rods and endlinks.
Ive been reading the DIYs on the coilover installs and most of them show removing the spindle.
My question is....
Is removing the spindle really necessary?
Ive done at least a dozen suspension swaps in my day and have never had to do that. Not really sure why I dont want to (fear of the unknown?).
Thanks for any help.
I've tried it both ways. It really is just easier to remove the spindle. Although you should put some masking tape around the lip of the fender anyway to protect the paint there will be less risk by removing the whole spindle.
Make sure you use a ball joint separater like this. Not a pickle fork. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Make sure you use a ball joint separater like this. Not a pickle fork. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
I've tried it both ways. It really is just easier to remove the spindle. Although you should put some masking tape around the lip of the fender anyway to protect the paint there will be less risk by removing the whole spindle.
Make sure you use a ball joint separater like this. Not a pickle fork. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Make sure you use a ball joint separater like this. Not a pickle fork. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Thanks for the info. Yes I've already picked one up from HF. Why are they needed vs the pickle fork?
Should be pretty easy but Ill report back.
There is a high risk of damaging the boot with a pickle fork. I won't use them unless I'm replacing the ball joint anyway.
I got started on this yesterday.
Wow where those axle nuts are really tight!
I was unable to break them even with a breaker bar.
Solution:
I put the jack under the end of the handle on the breaker bar and used its force to break them free.
Anyone know the torque specs on the axle nuts?
Wow where those axle nuts are really tight!
I was unable to break them even with a breaker bar.
Solution:
I put the jack under the end of the handle on the breaker bar and used its force to break them free.
Anyone know the torque specs on the axle nuts?
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340 ftlb is the spec to tighten. You need a really big torque wrench to put them back on properly. When doing mine, I borrowed a digital one from a buddy that sells industrial torque wrenches. It was about 5' long.
To get it off, you need to have the tire on the ground and have someone pushing down on the brake pedal. I bent a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar on the first attempt. Ended up buying a harbor freight 3/4" breaker bar and socket set and then putting a jack handle on that to get enough leverage.
To get it off, you need to have the tire on the ground and have someone pushing down on the brake pedal. I bent a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar on the first attempt. Ended up buying a harbor freight 3/4" breaker bar and socket set and then putting a jack handle on that to get enough leverage.
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