996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Help needed diagnosing my clutch problem

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Old Aug 25, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Help needed diagnosing my clutch problem

Hi guys...

I have recently purchased my 2001 996tt...I bought the car for a much cheaper price than the going price here because of the problems the car had. I quite like buying cars that need abit of work and making them into something really nice...

So far the extensive work that has been carried out includes a brand new Clutch plate and pressure plate. The initial problem with the clutch was the pedal was stuck to the floor....and because we had the engine out for other maintenance, we decided to inspect the clutch. We found that the clutch was worn and the pressure plate also needed replacement...so I ordered new parts from the local Porsche dealer.

We did lots of other maintenance work, and put everything back together. The car drives well except for the clutch problem and a shifter problem. The clutch pedal now works abit better but is not working 100% correctly because it sometimes does not return to its position? It seems to return to the halfway point only? It also does'nt quite feel right with the release point pretty early...

Any ideas what it could be? After abit of reading I find that it's probably accumulator or slave cylinder related....how does one know which of the two?

Any advice regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks in advance!
 
Old Aug 25, 2013 | 02:40 PM
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AFAIK a clutch pedal not always returning to its fully enaged position is not an accumulator or slave cylinder problem.

It is possibly a fluid problem, that is the clutch hydraulic system has air in it.

Be sure you thoroughly and correctly bleed the clutch hydraulic system. You can also disconnect the linkage from the master cylinder and ensure the basic clutch hardware in the cabin works with no binding.

Be sure the clutch boost spring is installed properly. Its function is to return the pedal to its fully engaged position.

If the problem persists then the suspicion I guess has to be on the clutch master cylinder or something binding/dragging in the clutch linkage outside of the cabin and on into the bell housing.

On a related note: When I had my Turbo (with 110K miles) in recently for a RMS repair the tech replaced the two small needle bearings on the clutch control shaft. The rest of the clutch hardware, including the friction disc, was in very good shape. In fact the clutch friction disc wear was negligible.

My point is these bearings were replaced even though the rest of the clutch hardware including the main wear items were in good condition, even the friction disc.
 
Old Aug 25, 2013 | 02:46 PM
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They are usually replaced as a set as the slave will usually be bad or go bad in conjunction with accumulator . I would do a search as this has been covered many times some recent.
 
Old Aug 25, 2013 | 09:46 PM
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Check the guide tube collar for scuffing and a bad edge as well. Is the flywheel factory?
 
Old Aug 26, 2013 | 03:49 AM
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HI Guys...

Thanks alot for the info above! I have taken the car back to the repair shop that did all the other repairs. The technician also felt that there was probably still some air in the system...so he will bleed it again and see.

@SamboTT... When we assembled the clucth we replaced the collar with a good used one because the original one did have a ridge on it and the mechanic did say it would cause issues....so that ruled out. The flywheel is a brand new one from the factory yes.

I will keep you guys updated with the progress and if it is indeed just air in the system.

Thanks again!!
 
Old Aug 28, 2013 | 12:36 AM
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Just an update...

It was air that was in the system as mentioned above! He bled the system and now the pedal is returning to its proper position. The pedal does have a very slight 'grating' feeling as you depress it....Any idea what that could be?

I thought of perhaps lubricating the pedal assembly under the dash but not sure if it will help?
 
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