Help! Asap Need New Battery? Dry Cell?
Help! Asap Need New Battery? Dry Cell?
HEY GUYS...
THE STUPID BATTERY IS DEAD ON MY CAR.. I DROVE IT FOR 30 MINS OR SO AND DAMN THING DIDNT CHARGE.. I think i need a new battery?
anyone know how much the factory battery is?
im thinking if i should switch to the lighter dry cell battery , like the one sharky has?
whats teh benefits of usinga smaller dry cell battery? can u jump start it if the battery dies? pros & cons?
need help, im taking the car to dealer tomorrow morning . so anyone can help id appreciate it...
THE STUPID BATTERY IS DEAD ON MY CAR.. I DROVE IT FOR 30 MINS OR SO AND DAMN THING DIDNT CHARGE.. I think i need a new battery?
anyone know how much the factory battery is?
im thinking if i should switch to the lighter dry cell battery , like the one sharky has?
whats teh benefits of usinga smaller dry cell battery? can u jump start it if the battery dies? pros & cons?
need help, im taking the car to dealer tomorrow morning . so anyone can help id appreciate it...
Re: Help! Asap Need New Battery? Dry Cell?
Originally posted by 02barebones996
im thinking if i should switch to the lighter dry cell battery , like the one sharky has?
im thinking if i should switch to the lighter dry cell battery , like the one sharky has?
First, have someone check the battery to make sure it will not hold a charge. The problem could be in your charging circuit, for example.
If the battery is toast, I would recommend against the factory battery, which is made be Moll and is not very good. You can do far better for less money with a bolt-in DieHard (size 48, I think, but that is easy to look up), or do what Sharky and I have done and go to an Optima. My car sits for a week or two sometimes, which is enough to discharge the battery to the barely-start level, so I went with a Yellow Top (their deep-cycle option). If you don't regularly discharge the battery, a Red Top will work fine. Installation of either takes a little time and effort (and in my case, drilling a couple of holes in the battery pan), but it is't brain surgery.
I doubt the dealer will be of much help.
If the battery is toast, I would recommend against the factory battery, which is made be Moll and is not very good. You can do far better for less money with a bolt-in DieHard (size 48, I think, but that is easy to look up), or do what Sharky and I have done and go to an Optima. My car sits for a week or two sometimes, which is enough to discharge the battery to the barely-start level, so I went with a Yellow Top (their deep-cycle option). If you don't regularly discharge the battery, a Red Top will work fine. Installation of either takes a little time and effort (and in my case, drilling a couple of holes in the battery pan), but it is't brain surgery.
I doubt the dealer will be of much help.
A word of caution: the directories battery manufacturers provide state the replacement battery for a 996 is a size group 49. Group 49 is a problem because it does not mate with the threaded holes to secure the battery. Group 48 is the preferred size. Here is a very useful thread from Renntech on this subject: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...950&hl=battery
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