that sounds like excellent advice. how complicated a process is switching to the hitachi maf and what parts are needed? i have learned to back off redline in the example you outline but with a raised rev limiter, it's easier to fry the maf since it probably fries somewhere in btw the normal 6750 and my current r-line of 7200. i've thought about this route also, and i'd much rather go hitachi upgrade as i have no problems with my old cargraphic ecu so i can't justify 1500-2k for a proto tune

i guess if the refurbished mafs ( i so enjoy ever go up in price from their current $47.00 U.S. i'll have to give this some more serious thought.

as to terminator's dilemma.. only thing i ever learned from cleaning my maf was that it was toast anyway since they ain't designed to be sprayed on, but if it buys ya some time? so be it lol. but i also bailed on my oiled bmc to at least eliminate one *potential* source of maf issues. to me, the possible gain didn't outweigh the very real maf downside. only thing i liked about it was the bmc intake did SOUND better on intake/throttle. car faster though, with it? mmm, i'm thinkin' not. also, it's real easy to switch back to the oem mahle.. for anyone that ever took out a dirty bmc or k&n?! "just one look, that's all it took"

 

So you guys think once you start getting check engine light cleaning MAF and going stock filter won't cure it? Only new MAF will? My car runs great but for the occasional check engine light.

Well got wi-fi obd2 code reader on its way with iphone torque app. Once I get the dreaded cel again at least I will be able to grab the code.

 

I imagine the best way to tell if you need the Hitachi upgrade is to datalog and see if you are maxing out the Bosch (at 5V)

 

Tanx.

 

Hitachi MAF will require a retune for the different flow data, so you are back where you were with cost . That being said, GIAC sells the complete hitachi MAF and adapter tube ~400 bucks or so (two MAFs new) and they claimed that BMC filters are perfectly fine to be used with the hitachi. Haven't tried it yet but may be down the road

 

I must be lucky..
I have a 18g set-up with a Protomotive tune with a 7400 rpm Rev. Limit and never blew my original MAF, yet.. LOL

 

i think once a maf exhibits signs of failure of any kind.. anything short of replacement will be a temporary fix, if that.

thanks for the clarification. yeah, a retune for the hitachi setup vs a proto tune? six of one or a 1/2 dz of another(?) but i think if a retune were required, i'd just opt for the proto mafless tune. though i like that dual cone ( k&n? ) filter setup with all that sh*t removed. mine was just the flat panel bmc with a cut open airbox like the 997t.. but still, something about mafs, oiled filters, and these cars, equals a zero sum game, i reckon.

mafs are truly this car's achilles heel.

 

lucky AND the minority report

never blew the maf after pegging the limiter? i must be making up for your lack of failures lol

 

Or my car doesn't make the HP the dyno says and my tach could be off. LOL..
Regardless, I am lucky then..

 

maybe it's luck + skill in your case honestly? all the mafs ( two ) i have blown in this current car have been on the upward arc of the learning curve but i now know how to operate and maintain my car.. and that sure didn't happen overnight lol

 

This includes CEL errors? My friend just cleaned it and for now his CEL's warnings have gone. Will report what happens with mine.

 

i dunno man.. are you getting "hot film maf" codes? i can't recall the code i got since it's ( thankfully ) been awhile. my point re mafs and cleaning ( if ever there is/was one? ) is that even if it helps/works? it's temporary. more so than a replacement. gl w it though. as i've posted 1000 x. i pay 47$ if i need a maf, and i'd pay $47 again, before i tried cleaning it. again. i just won't recommend refurb ebay mafs to anyone again, as they seem to only work for me