and the similarity is accurate. motors are not infinite. add power and you take away life. the op is asking what the consensus is for stock internals and on this forum many would say 700 rwhp is max. you can get more but for how long? it all depends on how the motor was treated before the power was added.
look at enlarging the motor. the time between tear down and inspection shrinks with each half litre you enlarge the engine. add titanium rods and the time shrinks again. its all about trade off of power for longevity.

topguns car dyno'd over 1500 rwhp. how long should that motor last if thats the power he ran daily? i think not very long.

 

I get it 100%. And btw I'm the op

 

boost don't kill the engine but cylinder pressure do ! meaning i need more boost to get my goal cuz i dont have headers,better flowing IC's, Y Pipe etc... maybe 30whp 60 wtq+ to be gain that will eventually bent rods !
a28s with stock component will spool later and kik less and get you mid to high 5sec 60-130 and 136+mph trap

 

the thing to look at with these engines is were the torque hit the hardest. k16 billets, alpha 28 turbos hit extremely hard low in the power band putting lots of stress on the weak link in the motor , the rods. high boost in cold dense air causes head bolts to lift unexpectedly. (ask layinback!)
3071, 3076 ,k24/18 turbos hit higher in the power band giving a slight bit of relief but again its the torque that kills. if your going to mod due as much due diligence as you can. your choice of tuner may well be the difference between more power and longevity.
unlike modding a mustang or camaro modding a porsche is a high dollar gamble. it doesn't take much to hurt the build and costs can rise rapidly. what you normally spend doing an entire muscle car is just getting started on these cars.

good luck and use the forum. its full of folks who have been here gone farther and still have the car. its a great resource at your fingertips

 

Some good points in this thread and in general I agree with power having an inverse relationship to life. What I don't buy into is the blanket statement that the stock DME or standalone will inherently make more hp reliability.

There's so many factors there, with the tuner/tuning being the biggest variable. Given that, I trust Porsche to have put the better safe guards in place. But when a tuner does bad things, it's all out the window anyways. A standalone may have more 'facilities' to program for more conditions, but again, it's up to the tuner to use/program them properly AND validate them, which is suspect in my mind given the relatively short development times.

Another thing that's not been touched on is there are different ways to make the same power. Timing is a big part of it. Making power with too much timing is a great way to grenade the motor at even lower power levels.

 

i completely agree with you.but once you start modding the safe guards porsche put in place go out the window.
for me the biggest reason i went with a standalone style of computer is because the dme is painfully slow compared to the lightning fast speeds the new units have. a 128 bit computer does things in microseconds over the oem unit. thats were the "safety" factors come to light. its a simple matter of computers grow at a lightning fast pace and the oem unit is outdated. fully functional but slow by todays standards. add a tuner that truly understands what the new computers can do and what the motor limitations are and it becomes an exceptional piece of equipment

 

+1
that is why i keep my timing low

 

Never thought about it before but its true the DME is a computer and I'm sure slow by todays standards.

 

The problem is not the stock ecu.. It is the sensors and not having the ability to use sensors that can read higher.. Like the maf, map and iat. The map can only see around 22psi, how do you tune past 22psi? Off the O2's that can swing about 25% +/- fuel trim. Yes you guessed it not a good way to adjust fuel trim, after the fact instead of before with map psi. IAT, I do not recall its max but I know most of you guys with stock i/c's and tunes are maxing it out in summer months. The maf?? a K24 car all stock with catted exhaust and stock intake pipes and a tune maxes the maf out @3500 rpm.. Going to a standalone will allow you to control the engine with set maps for map and iat and use lambda as a safety.

 

Kyle,

I am self made and there is a huge difference between that and someone who works for their mommy. I did not need college to learn that. You did not learn from your last bout with someone on this forum and you where band. They had the kindness and the heart to let it slide and here you are again... It is evident you do not learn form your past mistakes, College should have taught you at least some self control.

Or taught you test taking skills

 

With respect to a28s, I think there is a few things going on. This turbo setup has several different varieties as they have been developed and redeveloped over the years. The original ones you could get away with a somewhat stock fuel system, however the newer ones require more fuel and are on the limit to the stock system. Most people do not upgrade their fuel system properly to support a28s plus all the other mods. Most people pick a28s because the do not want to change the fuel system, as most are conscious of this with 3071 or 3073

Secondly, a28s spike and can spike badly in lower gears, but, and this is kicker, the gauge will not show you, and if it does, it's way way too late. I've concluded that this is a combination of quick spool and the responsiveness of the wastegate arrangement and long lines to the boost source.

The combination of a .2 or .3 bar boost spike, and stock fuel system plus some other event like hot IATs or perfect traction is all it takes.

Part of safety is over engineering. If it was easy to bolt stuff on and make unlimited power, I'm not sure to many of us would be interested in this platform.