I'll have numbers on the ProEFI 112 w/ flex fuel + k24/20 in 2 weeks 😬

 

Welcome back
hit me up Ill steer you in the right direction ....
injectors, tune, intercoolers, and k16 billets... done deal..
here is my client running a record 60 to 130 on this set up....
best
markski

 

Thanks for the ballparks. That was extremely helpful. I wouldn't go six figures, but the rest seems to be within my range of not balking.

 

Listen to what the man says..

 

A moderate power option, like Marski offers, is really an excellent choice if you are tracking your car. I have a forged 3.8 with fuel system, intercoolers, piping, 3076's, etc. The above comments about having a little lag on track are spot on - you will be running at higher revs most of the time, and you don't need that much boost coming out of corners until you straighten it out. But the problem with big power is the stress on the rest of the car. If you go big, you will likely soon need to rebuild the transmission, replace drive shafts, need better brake cooling, ..... I actually run mine at a reduced tune with 620 rwhp just so that I don't get eager and beat up the car.

A moderately built engine is so much more reasonable now and in the future! Especially if you track it.

 

^ spot on. said it before, say it again. i think the sweet spot for this platform is about 500whp and can be achieved with just bolt ons and won't put *undue* stress on the existing internals ( although no one will escape eventual trans work, even if only for bearings.. ) which will make for a very trackable/streetable power band that will theoretically last the life of the motor as one would expect if left bone stock.

they came to us factory de-tuned, which is why it's so easy to get to 450-500. beyond that ( i suppose past 600?) i think you're pressing the cars factory internals.

 

If you are having trouble deciding just start with a tune and exhaust. That will be the basics for everything beyond anyway. All the reputable tuners will give you credit for money spent on your tune when you upgrade anyway. I'm a local bay area guy as well (San Jose, Almaden area). We have a pretty awesome local tuner in Sharkwerks as I'm sure you already know. They don't do hybrid turbos if you are leaning that route although I'm sure they would if you asked but your car would have to go to AZ for a dyno tune Evoms. Sharkwerks does the tial alpha turbo upgrades for their turbo packages. If you are looking hybrid turbos probably better off going with a tuner like markski who's been doing that for years. Good luck and maybe I'll see you at a local event

 

Agreed, On the track anything over 550-600 rwhp will just frustrate you with dead tires. Think about good brakes, suspension and alignment to take the weight edge off.

I tacked my 6TT for years and I remember you! Let me know if I can help.

 

While the power is fun, the best mod I did to my TT is still the PSS10's and sways. It completely transformed the car.

 

I am not a track road racer or have the skill to be one but,,
I know the simple switch to a short shifter and the larger diameter Conti DWs made my ride much more enjoyable and comfortable,,,
Not saying my power mods,,18g package, didn't help..

 

Yes, I forgot about the short shifter and tire upgrade. Those two are excellent improvements.

That said, my first mods were the EPL tune and Speedtech exhaust..

 

Thanks for the feedback. The stock 996TT power is quoted at the crank. It seems some explicitly call out wHP, some don't. What's the power loss for the 996TT from crank to wheels? Yeah, I don't want to have to worry or deal with wear and replacement on transmission and other parts of the car because the power is beyond what the car was designed to handle. I know there is always margin built in, but by now, I am hoping that certain power ranges have shown to be fairly reliable, whereas other monster builds have shown transmission and other area of rebuild/replace/reinforcement needed.

 

What sways did you go with?

 

with old hybrid 16/24's I'm roughly at 550 crank, which translates to roughly 475+ or a tad more to the wheels. i would think that eliminating the front driveshaft helps me make the most of rwhp plus whatever else bolted on so i say i'm at or near 500 to the wheels. just for the sake of argument lol.

i believe conventional wisdom puts power loss from crank to wheels at about -15%? someone can/will correct me if that isn't accurate.

 

You will also need an upgraded clutch, probably DVs, with this

Oh it is a slippery slope. I started with a car that came with a tune and race exhaust (tune was old so I replaced it), the plugs and coils were old so upped them, then the clutch was slipping so went with another clutch, then the car needed more fuel (went with the full E85 set up), then wanted RWD with full coilovers, then wanted to lose more weight so carbon bits, now needs new ICs, DVs, 1 bar WGs, then I want K24 68mm HTA turbos..... never ending story.

OP

1. Exhaust
2. Tune

Then see how it feels after a few weeks or so but with 1 and 2 you will most likely need a new clutch