You probably mentioned it but where do you run electric cord to tender. Has to be window reg putting pressure in bad way.

 

From his description, batt tender was on passenger side with passenger window rolled down half way,

Any possibility your tender is causing any power surges to trigger microswitch in the driver's door causing pressure leading to cracking ?

 

I roll the passenger window down and plug it into the cigarette lighter. Both times this has happened I have had the tender plugged in. I'm guessing the battery tender is causing the window regulator to do some goofy crap. Ugh

 

"Doc, it hurts when I do this..."

Dang, man... so frustrating I'm sure. Are you running the cable through the door's half-open window, or between the door and the sill? Thinking if maybe the window is being raised (for what reason I do not know), then the cable might be juuuuust in exactly the wrong place?

-V

 

Running the cable through half opened window on passenger side. Drivers side window was rolled all the way up and shattered over night.

 

^^^

Teh... then I got nuthin'. Good luck man.

-V

 

Wow...Twice is just crazy.

How large is the garage, and how well is it sealed? At my parents place with the ceiling exhaust fan running in the garage it was hard to open the door to the house because of the pressure difference. I ended up cutting holes in the stucco/drywall to keep pressure from building up like that.

Could you be slamming the door into the house causing some kind of pressure wave that's going through the passenger window and pushing out on the driver's?

 

If the passenger window was open - pressure was equalized through that window anyway.

Do you lock the car in the garage (even with the window open)? The car will switch off electronics slowly over time. If you are not locking the car, stuff may be staying energized that is somehow messing with the window motor. That's my shot anyway...

 

Slider, That's as good a guess as any. The doors were not locked.

 

I guess I'm going to get the window replaced, crack the driver window additionally while on the tender and monitor that my window is in fact indexing properly when I open/close the door in the future.

 

Could you hard wire the tender plug to the alternator/jump start terminal in the engine compartment and just drop cord under car. That way you could leave windows up and all doors closed. Plus you would have a more direct connection to battery without going through any electronics from lighter to battery. Just a thought. That is heartbreaking to look at

 

+1. How I keep mine charged all winter.

Regarding broken tempered glass, this usually happens at a pre existing defect along the polished edge. Usually takes some type of stress to cause breakage. Uneven heat on glass is one example, excess tension at the defect location is another. A trained eye can sift through the broken pieces, find the origin of the break, determine the cause. The sunroof example may be due to nickel inclusion in the glass, which expands far more than glass when heated up, causing the tensile break, or spontaneous breakage.

 

Stress may have started at the top right/back of window.

 

Urso, I work for a top 3 global glass company, at the tech center. I'll ask an expert to look at the picture.

 

I really appreciate that. Let me know if you need more pictures.