OK, I have some driving impressions for you guys after the weekend.

The parts:
Ohlins R&T (996 Turbo kit with standard spring rates)
H&R adjustable rear sway bar set in softest position
Tarett drop links
Tarett rear thrust arm bushings
Tarett front monoball camber plate

Alignment:
-1.9 degrees front camber
0 front toe
-1.9 degrees rear camber
2mm rear toe-in per side

Ride height is about 25.5". I set the dampers at 8 clicks from full stiff at front and 10 clicks from full stiff at rear.

I'm mostly happy with how the car drives. The front end feels very responsive now. I think that's down to the big difference in spring rates front and rear as well as the combination of stock front sway bar with the H&R rear bar. I've killed the turn-in understeer and made power oversteer accessible in low speed corners. I don't know yet how the car will behave in high speed corners, as I couldn't push hard enough on the street.

On the negative side, I do have a slightly unpleasant bounce driving over undulating pavement.

 

Are you going to mess around with the dampening setting to try and get rid of the bounce? (Maybe go softer?)

 

I set mine to -3 and -3 from full stiffness on a RWD car and do not get so much bounce... then again around here I go from pothole to pothole to ****hole to pothole so it may be that way

 

I'm not sure if the minor bouncing bothers me enough right now.

 

Guys do I need to wait a few weeks after install for the springs to settle before getting an alignment or do coilovers not sag after install like a spring install?

 

I had corner weighting and alignment done immediately after the install.

 

Quality spring will NOT sag.

 

Thanks gents!

 

You won't be able to get a street rear cam setting unless you go with dog bones (rear only), adjustable shock tops, or split lower rear control arms. There is not enough adjustment in the stock eccentrics. Split lower control arms with shims are what the factory uses. The shims are marked so you get a pretty good idea how much negative camber you adding/subtracting one you get a baseline adjustment. Rear dog bones are easy to set up for track or street but a bit harder to change between camber settings based on how many turns of the link. Adjustable shock top plates are easy to adjust as you can just mark on the plates with how much camber you're dialing in. But there will be much more spring noise as there is no rubber left between the coil overs and the body shock towers.
The Tarett drop links are also noisy (as are all other adjustable heim joint drop links). The cure is to pack the boots with grease. Don't forget the tranny mount. Either upgrade to the 997 or go with an aftermarket with hard synthetic inserts.
The stock shifter is junk and the 997 short shifter only a modest improvement. Most of it is plastic and can break under heavy use. Go with the Numeric shifter and also get the RS shift cables.

 

I backed off a bit on the damper settings. No more bounce now!

 

If you had to guess what damper settings are you at F/R now?

I think they say 10-20 is the "Street" setting in the manual.

 

I'm at 15 now. It feels more comfortable than stock, but still with higher responsiveness.

 

Ok awesome. I told the tech to do a 13 front and rear. Hope it's not too harsh.

 

Just ordered mine..... I'll have to remember these settings when I go to put them on.

Feed back on ride quality ?

Thanks for testing

 

I *might* get my car back tomorrow. Install has been going all week. Will report back as soon as I do.