As far as I can tell, there is nothing on the MAF that can corrode.

And after more than three years of running oiled filters, my MAF looked as good as new. There was no visible damage, and everything was spotless. I ran my finger along the exposed wire, and it was dry and smooth. Whatever oil was on it was not visible with the naked eye. I don't doubt it had a *VERY* light/thin coating of oil on it, but that was it. It doesn't get "blasted" with oil and dirt. The micron sized dust particles that make it past the BMC/K&N/EVO filter wouldn't do any damage at all to the exposed metal parts of the MAF.

I don't believe MAF "hard" failures have anything at all to do with oiled air filters.

 

I agree with Dock. The only way it can really "hard" fail is due to physical damage or buring itself out trying to maintain temp.

 

Thanks for all your input. I have also run oiled K&N for 3k+ miles as well as 1k+ on the oiled Evo and have had no problems until now. I also cleaned the MAF few weeks ago according to Ruiner's thread before the problem and it was incredible how much more responsive it was immediately (hit 1.5 bars for the first time!). And all of a sudden I got the PSM/ABS/CEL. It's at the dealer getting the MAF replaced. I know I am going with the cotton filter next regardless of whether the oiled filter had any direct effect or not- more for a peace of mind I guess.

Ron, I love the Gemballa wheels!!. I will post some pictures when I get the car back. Thanks.

 

How much work is it to pull and clean the MAF?

Also whats the ballpark cost to replace MAF on a Twin turbo?

Thanks

 

It's simple to clean the MAF, Ruiner did a nice write up recently. All you need is a torque screw driver (20mm) and electronic cleaner with no residue. The cost to replace the MAF is about $400, just for the MAF itself.

 

It takes 30 seconds to pull or install the MAF. The "cleaning" part takes about 15-20 minutes plus air dry time.

I think you can get a new MAF for something around $250 (+/- $20 or so).