It will work on the stud. The way it works is it you pound it on the offending fastener and it has teeth that dig in more the more you try to loosen it. If it slips that just means you need to pound it on harder for the initial bite or you have the wrong size.

 

You have threaded portion sticking out --- Screw an acorn nut onto the threaded part that is projecting out enough to bottom it out onto the lock nut flange but not so much that it tightens the stud more. !!!!!! But before you do apply a bunch of red loctite to the threads. Let the loctite set up 100% completely then remove the stud with just a regular socket.

 

I've personally helped a friend in the same situation by tig welding a nut onto the bolt. Easy peasy 10 minutes with no damage to the wheel. Though of course it requires a welder.

You might want to go to a wheel/tire shop. They deal with this stuff all the time. They typically will just hammer in a throwaway socket.

If you have patience, and some throwaway bits, you could drill out that bolt.

 

Some of you really make this way more complicated than it needs to be.

 

i'm with the hammer on it advice too lol."we" drilled/hammered etc until the sucker came right out.

 

True that, how could it get any easier then my solution, A $2 nut from any auto store and buy a tiny sample sized bottle of loctite if you already dont have any. No tools to buy, no drilling, no welding... It's just so simple.


And then if my method fails you have every other more destructive method of removal including all the easy outs or welding.

 

Thanks to SinKing and Engine Guy! I could not find an acorn nut the right size, but SinKing's nut removal kit suggestion worked like a charm. Stud was out in 2 minutes!!! Rep points to you both!

 

Glad it worked out for you. I picked up that kit about 10 years ago and it has been WELL worth the initial purchase price.

 

I have bought similar tools in past that did nothing but I'm going to buy this since it seems to work and hey cheap lol. Thanks sinKing!