Help, need to pin a coolant hose fitting
SubscribeQuote:
So is the locktite the only sealer that I use. And what locktite product is it again? So you feel that this fix without pinning would be OK?Originally Posted by johnny.dangerous
Like i said you wont need to pin that if you use the loctite, you MAY be able to rebond it by just removing the alternator.
thanks for your help, Mike
My aplogies its a 3M adhesive you need
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/epoxy-...sives/4587292/
or
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4254825&rt=rud
or there is a stronger one I cannot find that is black, these are far stronger and deal with heat better than any others we have tried but you do need ther aplicator gun and mix nozzles as well
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/epoxy-...sives/4587292/
or
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4254825&rt=rud
or there is a stronger one I cannot find that is black, these are far stronger and deal with heat better than any others we have tried but you do need ther aplicator gun and mix nozzles as well
Check out the shear strength on it !!!!
Quote:
you can't remove just the intake on the drivers side. you have to remove the ENTIRE intake in 1 piece. the amount of effort your going to use to try to get this out and you can have the engine out and pin all the fittings. its up to you. good luck either wayOriginally Posted by mikerosi
Yeah after looking at it again, I think once the drivers side intake is removed and alternator also I can get an angle drill and tap in through the side from left to right
Quote:
can't say. to me intake is the intake manifold. hence the name "intake"Originally Posted by BLKMGK
When he says intake are you sure he isn't speaking of the air box?
that fitting in the video can be done with the a/c p/s and secondary air removed. my thought is if 1 fitting is loose how long before another comes out? most say "when i lose a fitting ill address them all" this is that time. do it once do it right and forget about itQuote:
You can remove the intake and plenum and leave the intake runners on the pass side so you dont need to remove the air pump, ive done it many times.Originally Posted by 32krazy!
you can't remove just the intake on the drivers side. you have to remove the ENTIRE intake in 1 piece. the amount of effort your going to use to try to get this out and you can have the engine out and pin all the fittings. its up to you. good luck either way
Quote:
the plenum is in there so i find it hard to believe you move only one side. pry on the plastic housing and you will crack it. again good luckOriginally Posted by johnny.dangerous
You can remove the intake and plenum and leave the intake runners on the pass side so you dont need to remove the air pump, ive done it many times.
Well you can change the plenum without removing the entire intake so I cant see it being a problem

Help, need to pin a coolant hose fitting
I did mine this week. I not only pinned all seven fittings I also did the sharkwerks elbows. Regarding the fitting in question it can be done in the car. With that being said I would not change the plastic elbows while the engine is in the car. It's less than simple with the engine out of the car let alone in the car.
Quote:
How did you prevent the shavings from going in the engine when you drilled & tapped them for the pin? I have have one that came apart that I will re- adhere & pin, the others I was only planning on pinning them but was wonder were the shavings are going to go if I do it on the engine with the castings still on the car.Originally Posted by roncooper
I did mine this week. I not only pinned all seven fittings I also did the sharkwerks elbows. Regarding the fitting in question it can be done in the car. With that being said I would not change the plastic elbows while the engine is in the car. It's less than simple with the engine out of the car let alone in the car.
Help, need to pin a coolant hose fitting
If your using a 4mm screw for 75% thread profile it requires a 3.3mm drill which is around
.128 I drilled all mine with a .125 drill in anticipation of the hand drill not being exactly concentric to the bore.
The only one that's interesting is directly under the oil filter and is to be drilled at an angle. I used a 12mm length in that one and 10mm length is all the others.
Quote:
The material your drilling is cast aluminum, when drilled it created a very fine chip. Drill into the fitting 8mm or so and just before breaking through blow the chips away. The natural helix of the drill bit wants the bring the material to the top. I would surmise that there is a little bit of chips that would get in but nothing to be worried about. Originally Posted by magoochi
How did you prevent the shavings from going in the engine when you drilled & tapped them for the pin? I have have one that came apart that I will re- adhere & pin, the others I was only planning on pinning them but was wonder were the shavings are going to go if I do it on the engine with the castings still on the car.
If your using a 4mm screw for 75% thread profile it requires a 3.3mm drill which is around
.128 I drilled all mine with a .125 drill in anticipation of the hand drill not being exactly concentric to the bore.
The only one that's interesting is directly under the oil filter and is to be drilled at an angle. I used a 12mm length in that one and 10mm length is all the others.



