Probably a short in your alternator? This may help you. http://community.cartalk.com/discuss...a-battery-down

 

id probably replace alternator.

 

In this case I agree and would replace= not fool with just regulator.

 

Had a few minutes to play with the car today
The battery has been disconnected and charging

I connected the fully charged (new) battery and I've plugged the durametric in

The in-dash voltmeter was showing around 13 volts when the battery was connected, and the durametric came up with the following codes......


Alarm:
34 Interior Sensor Faulty
43 Alarm Actuation by Passanger's
47 Control Locking Synchronization
10 Voltage Failure at Terminal 30
33 Interior Sensor Faulty


Heating & Air Conditioning:
24 Power Supply (Terminal 15)

Instrument Cluster:
9130 Power Supply
9132 Terminal 61


That was around 120 - 150 minutes ago, the voltmeter is now showing 12 volts

Are these codes anything to do with my issue?

 

I say you need a new alternator, could be ignition switch= I say alternator. Your best bet is to have it flat bedded to reputable shop.

 

thats no ignition switch OR the VR ( in my uneducated opinion ) but i agree wholeheartedly with all that suggest, a NEW bosch would probably cure all.

do NOT get a rebuilt!

 

Think you're gonna be right.

I don't have much free time at present, hence why this is dragging out. The car's just sat in my garage at present

I'd like to identify exactly what's going on before I replace parts or hand the car over to someone, but I'm not sure if I can do that this time round

I'm more than happy to fit a new alternator, I'm just wondering if there's a way to be certain that's the fault before pulling things apart?

My friend who's good with cars, and knows nothing about Porsches suggests I fully charge the battery and then disconnect the alternator

His thinking is that there's obviously a large drain on the car somewhere (which is why the battery went flat so quickly after being replaced) and by disconnecting the alternator we can see what effect that has to the drain

Is my friends idea a good one?

 

Yes your friends idea is a good one, just do not keep running the car the way it is or you could burn wires-sensors etc.

 

Cool, we'll give that a try then

I haven't started the car at all, just turning the ignition on and off

With the battery fully charged the voltmeter initially shows around 13 volts, and progressively gives a lower reading due to the drain

 

Right, I'm back and the alternator's out

I'll just clean up then post some pictures

 

Just took a few pictures of the regulator

I'm guessing the holes in the posts are the wear indicators?










I didn't think anyone would want pictures at the alternator itself, as there's not really anything to inspect is there

My current plan is to let the car sit with the battery connected and see if it still drains like it has been doing

Tomorrow I'll take the alternator to a rebuild place and ask if they can check its condition

Interestingly, when I disconnected the battery to remove the alternator the alarm went off as I didn't leave the key in the ignition (UK spec alarm system) the alarm only sounded twice before it died

 

sounds/looks like you have more than competent help, and you've always proven to be that as well.

when my alt went, i didn't need ANY help with a diagnosis. i just kinda "knew", so i ordered a new bosch and my bud came over and swapped it in about 30/45 mins, and end of story.

car runs a 13 full load as it should. after i trickle charge *( every cpl weeks ) it sits at 13.8 for awhile until i turn i load it up w electrics. but it's where it should be.

i've always marveled at those that have gotten away with just the swap of the VR but sometimes that is indeed, all that's gone south, so no harm in swapping a 40$ part, IF thats all it needs.

conventional wisdom though says, that if the VR goes, the alt can not be far behind. but that is admittedly only conjecture. there IS no "proof". i just don't fk around with parts under a grand. i just buy if i know they are problematic lol. but GL with it, sounds like it'll be sorted in no time.
DONT get a rebuild. ! please. NOT worth the potential for premature failure. TRUST me.

 

I would order a new alternator but if your rebuild guy has a good rep you should be fine.

 

Thanks guys

I have no intention of having it rebuilt. Just want it tested to know what exactly failed

If it's dead I'll just throw a new one on

 

Sounds like a good plan.