Hi guys

I took the car out other day, and after a couple of minutes of driving I got some warning lights......brake distribution, ABS, PSM....

I noticed the voltmeter was reading around 16 volts, and the warning lights would go out temporarily when I put my foot on the brakes.

I got to my destination about five miles down the road, and parked up.

After an hour or so the car alarm started going off.

When I went to leave (a few hours later) the car battery was almost completely dead

I managed to jump start the car, and when I drove off the voltmeter went back up to ~16 volts again.

If I put all the electrics on the reading would drop a little.

I'm guessing I need a new voltage regulator, but wanted to double check with everyone as I've already fitted a new VR around four years ago

Thanks
Ant

 

Hi Ant,
Yes its cooked, and stop running the engine, it can/will/(has?) damage many things....sounds like a new battery while you're at it
Cheers,

 

Thanks

When I saw the voltage I turned on all the electrics I could and got the volt reading to hover around 13 volts

Total journey was less than 9 miles at 13 volts so I should be ok

I haven't switched the ignition on since

I'll swap the battery and regulator as suggested

Thanks again

 

Goodstuff, I'd also try to scan the car with a Durametric or similar before re-starting to see if there are any potential module/component faults.

 

Just had this issue except my voltage was pegged. Smoked a new battery. After I took off my alternator I had it tested and showed it was bad. I just replaced the whole thing since its some work to get it back in. The amount of cel's you get are quite frightening. Lol

 

^can actually be quite easy to get back in, most guys have issue getting the alternator to sit back on its perch...the trick is to slightly press the steel threaded 'bushing' out and then the alternator easily slides back in...tightening the bolt pinches everything back together and off you go.

 

Well, the alt was super easy, but I found putting the y pipe back in with the n74 hoses zip tied were a huge pita. That took me forever

 

Goodpoint, the n75 hose can be a pain

 

Ya...if I were to just slide the hoses on, it would be OK..but to have them zip tied made me throw a wrench or 2 at the wall

 

I only disconnect the hose at the Y-pipe and push it out of way when removing/installing the Y. Loop a fresh loose ziptie onto the hose before reinstalling it and it isn't too bad to do, I have a harder time getting the hose back on.
All said and done, doing the voltage regulator job is less then an hour for me, taking my time.

 

That would be the easiest, but where the hose connects at the y, mine has a press fit clamp that is not removable

 

Might want to consider removing the clamp and trying a ziptie in its place, seems to improve workability a bunch

 

I had the same problem with my car some weeks ago.
I first changed my regulator but the problem was still there. I had to take my alternator down a second time and then change an other part.
I don't know the english word for it, but look at it:





It's really easy to do.

The reference of the part is no longer the same. You can buy it in a Bosch center.
Here is the new ref: 133234

 

Quick update:

My new battery arrived yesterday morning

I charged it overnight and fitted it today

With the ignition on the voltmeter showed a little over 12 volts

Then when I started the engine it went back to 16 volts

Is there anything I can check before tackling the alternator?

 

Well, this afternoon my car alarm started going off

I went into the garage to turn it off but it the key fob didn't do anything

I put the key in the ignition and tried opening the bonnet, guessing that the battery was somehow low on charge

The bonnet wouldn't open, so I connected my other car to the door striker to open it up

I connected the battery charger, and my brand new battery is completely flat (I made sure it was fully charged before installing it yesterday)

Any body got any ideas what's going on now?
I'm close to being stumped