I just replaced my left side radiator and wanted to make sure I was doing right by the car and using the right coolant. The original owner stated he replaced the coolant last year with Zerex G-05. Since the loss of coolant during my radiator replacement(approx 1/2 to 3/4 gallon, my questions are the following.

1) Is Zerex G-05 a suitable replacement

2) Would you recommend draining all the G-05 and replacing with G-40 from Porsche?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

Go with OEM for sure.....

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-20...oling/Coolant/ http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...omotive%2C1068 You could go with VW-Audi OEM and save a little.

 

Audi/VW like G12?

 

Same thing usually cheaper.

 

go to the Audi or Vw dealership and get the new G13 (its backwards compatible) for half the cost of the Porsche branded stuff.

 

yes, its now called g13 .same stuff audi/vw/porsche its all the same g13.

 

From all my extensive reading, Zerex G-05 has been rated very high against all competitors. Maybe explains why the original owner used G05, who knows. After speaking to an indy shop and a local Porsche dealer, it seems there is no harm in using G05 and according to both sources it would not damage anything internally.

 

technically, as long as the it's "OAT" coolant in a 50/50 mix of coolant w distilled water, it CANT harm the system. he's right.

basically. its just propylene glycol and water.

 

Go with OEM coolant.

 

dude..c'mon..lol. whatever

 

^lol. I think for piece of mind and not compromising any of the vehicles performance, I will be draining, flushing and replacing with OEM and or G13 Audi/VW red coolant. I saw a DIY on draining the system, but do you bleed the same way with allowing the vehicle to burp and top off as needed like MadWhip did when he replaced his one radiator or do you guys recommend buying a tool like this?https://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-20....6L/ES2712734/

 

the audi/vw/porsche g13 pink stuff IS all the same. only porsche's is branded "porsche" and therefore more expensive.

when adding the coolant, its best ( why i'm exactly not certain other than gravity assisting ) to have the cars front end raised on jacks and to keep the rpms up approx 2-3k rpm while adding the coolant.. once filled, run it awhile with the breather cap unsnapped, to ensure there's no air in the system, then snap the ( blk ) breather cap shut. this will help. you might still have a minute or two of overflow out the blue expansion tank cap, after the first quick run or two, but that will normalize.

 

Front end raised? Wouldn't that encourage air bubbles to move away from the filler not towards?

 

i actually, dunno. i havent got the physics of it figured out, and i rarely do. it's just what my tech does and iirc it's the part about holding the rpm @ 3k was the more important aspect of it. but he's done it a 1000 times before. i just work the throttle pedal

perhaps the revving of the motor counters the front end being up? not sure.

add: after thinking back it IS the revs that matter more. the car was up in the air on stands to r&r the rad as it was. i'm fairly certain the cars front being raised is an unimportant side note. but thats what I've done. twice ( with competent help! )