yes we checked with arp to make the 12mm to the same specs as the custom sets we use. there were 1900$ but hey anybody can make them right ? they are just studs!

 

See, they CAN be made by ARP but at the volume they want even MORE money! If this were a less critical part you could head to Asia but for this you want rock solid QA and that really cuts down choices I'd imagine. Somehow I just knew alternatives were being sought

 

While I'm contemplating the studs, anyone got any more tips or bits I need to be aware of?

I've been told "crankcase core upgrades" not sure what that means
Sealing gaskets correctly?

I'll check the drillings in the forged crank are sealed correctly etc.

 

i do not remove engine to retorque them. as of right now i am planning to use 10mm on my 997 build

agreed 1500 is spendy for some studs.

 

Thats a trick i havent learned yet!!👍i know tom has hd success and i wish all the luck for your build. Care to share how its done?

Also the 1500$ includes the custom gaskets which are 325$ cheap they arent but they do work well

To the o/p other than new crank bearings for peace of mind the stock bottom end will take whatever hp you throw at it

 

its not a trick. everything is done with motor out before it goes back in.

also to your its only 1500$ only comment, yes it is not THAT much if it includes gaskets too. however if the machining isn't spot on you need cases - which is $2.5k. Even good builders make machining mistakes, customer always pays for that anyway.... which is why i do not want my cases machined, not to mention taking material out of them.

 

How do you reach the aproxx 500* needed to heat cylce the motor?

The only real material removed are the existing threads then new threads cut. Heads a nd housings have no threads as you know. The srm jig ensures a straight and precise cut and tap

 

i don't

 

Anyone looked at WRX studs?

m11 and 7.7" long, so will give me the 90ft/lbs.

Going by other posts the 996 are m10 x 7.765 or 7 5/8.

Close enough? I'm not in the uk so can't measure my old ones

 

To each his own as they say but no offense and i dont know what machine shop you use but if they are making a mistake like ruining your cases on a simple machining job as prepping for 12mm studs i suggest u get a different machine shop. They should be responsible for that if they do mess it up also . A good machine shop is insured for this type of thing. I have never heard of a set of cases being damaged from 12mm stud upgrade. Then again i think Todd BHT motor is still on those ARP studds Todd Knighton built it with. Lol

 

just to clarify i have never used 12mm studs or had a set of cases messed up, but i have heard of a few cases. one thing you have to keep in mind is that we never hear about 80% of the failures that happen either because owners are embarrassed or are under pressure from shops they deal with not to post bad publicity etc etc..... you've been around long enough to know whats up in this game. i hear quiet a bit of these because i have helped people locate the needed rebuild parts, i usually have leads on cases, liners, heads etc etc.

Not for nothing but BHTs car runs strong on 10mm studs, chris greens GT2, my old yellow 996tt ran strong on them too and got a lot of abuse so have a lot of other cars. Proper assembly is essential.

Nowadays there are a lot of experts out here, however I am always interested in the feedback of guys who are known to abuse their cars constantly and have cars that stay together for more than 6 months.

 

Can I ask what you do? Maybe cycle torque them a few times before final makeup?

 

I thought protomotive used 11mm studs torqued to 70 ft/lbs

 

There is a 997tt motor at a Builder i Know that the shop in california hand drilled the holes out for the 12mm studs and well you can guess the result.

 

Well way back then ARP's were the flavor, my original motor had arps, and a bunch more.

when they failed new solutions came about.