996TT - Bilstein PSS10+GT3 Sways - Floaty feeling - Correct Setup?
+1 with John
More front camber will help also but you will need hardware for that. The total should be something in the range of 0.0 to -.04 front and -.25 to -.30 rear depending on how aggressive you want to be. The rear really dictates what the front does. The first thing to try along with shock settings.
Unless you meant to write .30 toe in rear?
The rest is as good as you can get it unless you can put in the front which would make the car handle better especially with the wide track you have.
More front camber will help also but you will need hardware for that. The total should be something in the range of 0.0 to -.04 front and -.25 to -.30 rear depending on how aggressive you want to be. The rear really dictates what the front does. The first thing to try along with shock settings.
Unless you meant to write .30 toe in rear?
The rest is as good as you can get it unless you can put in the front which would make the car handle better especially with the wide track you have.
Last edited by SamboTT@ByDesign; May 4, 2016 at 11:11 AM.
+1 with John
More front camber will help also but you will need hardware for that. The total should be something in the range of 0.0 to -.04 front and -.25 to -.30 rear depending on how aggressive you want to be. The rear really dictates what the front does. The first thing to try along with shock settings.
Unless you meant to write -.30 rear?
The rest is as good as you can get it unless you can put in the front which would make the car handle better especially with the wide track you have.
More front camber will help also but you will need hardware for that. The total should be something in the range of 0.0 to -.04 front and -.25 to -.30 rear depending on how aggressive you want to be. The rear really dictates what the front does. The first thing to try along with shock settings.
Unless you meant to write -.30 rear?
The rest is as good as you can get it unless you can put in the front which would make the car handle better especially with the wide track you have.
These values are for the total Toe? ->(The total should be something in the range of 0.0 to -.04 front and -.25 to -.30 rear)
Actually my car have a total toe positive 0° 03'. I saw some exemples and all the cars have at rear positie toe


These setup are fine for street use, correct?:
Bilstein PSS10:
Front - 6
Rear - 7
The camber values are: Front (-1°20') and Rear (-1° 50')
The Total Toe are: Front (-0°04') and Rear (-0° 25')
The castor is: Front (7° 30')
K.P.I. is: Front (18° 30')
Included Angle is: Front (17°24')
The cross camber are: Front (-0°26') and Rear (0° -14')
Thanks,
VS
Cars and Coffee alignment = OEM TT spec
Driver's street alignment = OEM GT2 spec
Any decent shop will have those in their machine.
Do NOT EVER set rear toe as negative. That would make handling dangerous. Total rear toe should be +0º30' (equals +0.50º) Do not confuse degrees with minutes. Keep in mind that 1.0º = 60'. Porsche specs alignment setting only in degrees and minutes while some shops will display toe in millimeters.
Driver's street alignment = OEM GT2 spec
Any decent shop will have those in their machine.
Do NOT EVER set rear toe as negative. That would make handling dangerous. Total rear toe should be +0º30' (equals +0.50º) Do not confuse degrees with minutes. Keep in mind that 1.0º = 60'. Porsche specs alignment setting only in degrees and minutes while some shops will display toe in millimeters.
Last edited by pwdrhound; May 4, 2016 at 10:59 AM.
Cars and Coffee alignment = OEM TT spec
Driver's street alignment = OEM GT2 spec
Any decent shop will have those in their machine.
Do NOT EVER set rear toe as negative. That would make handling dangerous. Total rear toe should be +0º30' (equals +0.50º) Do not confuse degrees with minutes. Keep in mind that 1.0º = 60'. Porsche specs alignment setting only in degrees and minutes while some shops will display toe in millimeters.
Driver's street alignment = OEM GT2 spec
Any decent shop will have those in their machine.
Do NOT EVER set rear toe as negative. That would make handling dangerous. Total rear toe should be +0º30' (equals +0.50º) Do not confuse degrees with minutes. Keep in mind that 1.0º = 60'. Porsche specs alignment setting only in degrees and minutes while some shops will display toe in millimeters.
I have ordered monoball bearings F & R and also adding solid adjustable bushings in front LCA, I already have them in the back. I will ask for GT2 spec alignment after installation.
Cars and Coffee alignment = OEM TT spec
Driver's street alignment = OEM GT2 spec
Any decent shop will have those in their machine.
Do NOT EVER set rear toe as negative. That would make handling dangerous. Total rear toe should be +0º30' (equals +0.50º) Do not confuse degrees with minutes. Keep in mind that 1.0º = 60'. Porsche specs alignment setting only in degrees and minutes while some shops will display toe in millimeters.
Driver's street alignment = OEM GT2 spec
Any decent shop will have those in their machine.
Do NOT EVER set rear toe as negative. That would make handling dangerous. Total rear toe should be +0º30' (equals +0.50º) Do not confuse degrees with minutes. Keep in mind that 1.0º = 60'. Porsche specs alignment setting only in degrees and minutes while some shops will display toe in millimeters.
I understand you but Sam suggested negative toe for rear "The total should be something in the range of 0.0 to -.04 front and -.25 to -.30 rear "
Have you the GT2 alignment full specs?
Thanks,
VS
NO, POSITIVE toe in rear
Correct. Again my backwards brain. Both front and rear are toed in. The front minimal and the rear .25ish per side. My opinion. John also had a really good suggestion the way he laid it out. If anything just a little more toe in on the rear and more camber in the John also had a really good suggestion the way he laid it out. If anything just a little more to toe in on the rear, little less in front and more camber in the front.
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