Measuring Wheel Lug Bolt shank
Measuring Wheel Lug Bolt shank
Hey everyone,
The OEM Lug Bolts are 45mm. I'm assuming the 45mm shank is measured from the end of the bolt head to the end of the shank, and not from the bottom of the ball seat (whatever that part is called).
The TPI locking lug bolts I received are 47mm shank but are significantly longer them OEM. The box is labeled as 47mm but it looks like the 47mm shank is being measured from the bottom of the ball seat and the from the end of the bolt thread like OEM.
I'm not running spacers and not sure if I should try to return these or just run them.
The OEM Lug Bolts are 45mm. I'm assuming the 45mm shank is measured from the end of the bolt head to the end of the shank, and not from the bottom of the ball seat (whatever that part is called).
The TPI locking lug bolts I received are 47mm shank but are significantly longer them OEM. The box is labeled as 47mm but it looks like the 47mm shank is being measured from the bottom of the ball seat and the from the end of the bolt thread like OEM.
I'm not running spacers and not sure if I should try to return these or just run them.
So I spoke with the manufacturing company of the locking bolts:
Amazon.com: TPI C1984047F/SL - Porsche Lifetime Locking Bolt, Chrome,M14 x 1.50, 4 Locks + 1 Key /Clam, 47mm Shank Length: Automotive
Turns out they measure the shank from the first thread, so a 47mm Porsche bolt is much longer then OEM one....
I'm a bit confused and slightly annoyed since I need to pay to ship the item back. Am I wrong in originally thinking that the advertised TPI 47mm Porsche Locking Bolt should have been only 2mm longer then an OEM Porsche bolt?
Even the advertising picture displays a much shorter shank that looks like an OEM Porsche 45mm bolt so I didn't even think twice when ordering.
Turns out they measure the shank from the first thread, so a 47mm Porsche bolt is much longer then OEM one....
I'm a bit confused and slightly annoyed since I need to pay to ship the item back. Am I wrong in originally thinking that the advertised TPI 47mm Porsche Locking Bolt should have been only 2mm longer then an OEM Porsche bolt?
Even the advertising picture displays a much shorter shank that looks like an OEM Porsche 45mm bolt so I didn't even think twice when ordering.
Last edited by xmaciek82x; May 18, 2016 at 06:05 PM.
Hey everyone,
The OEM Lug Bolts are 45mm. I'm assuming the 45mm shank is measured from the end of the bolt head to the end of the shank, and not from the bottom of the ball seat (whatever that part is called).
The TPI locking lug bolts I received are 47mm shank but are significantly longer them OEM. The box is labeled as 47mm but it looks like the 47mm shank is being measured from the bottom of the ball seat and the from the end of the bolt thread like OEM.
I'm not running spacers and not sure if I should try to return these or just run them.

The OEM Lug Bolts are 45mm. I'm assuming the 45mm shank is measured from the end of the bolt head to the end of the shank, and not from the bottom of the ball seat (whatever that part is called).
The TPI locking lug bolts I received are 47mm shank but are significantly longer them OEM. The box is labeled as 47mm but it looks like the 47mm shank is being measured from the bottom of the ball seat and the from the end of the bolt thread like OEM.
I'm not running spacers and not sure if I should try to return these or just run them.

This can lead to wheel damage and the loss of a wheel if seat is not matched to the wheel.
Same goes for wheel nuts. People buy over the counter and you can get the wrong stuff. It is your life and your passengers liives that is at stake !
Check the bolt grade indicated 12.9, 10.8, 8.8 etc. This should match the auto manufacturer's specification. The grade describes the Yield Stress which is very important when tightening wheels.
If you bolt your wheel up with the longer studs it will be end up against your disc. The force exerted by 5 bolts torqued to 130 Nm (95 lbs-ft will destroy your disc and lock yor wheel. Rather cut them (steel cutting disc and not hacksaw. Pause and cool off with water during cutting operation otherwise the hardness is destroyed) to size and use a die to restore the thread.
Going to returned those. Seller would not pay for return shipping... pretty crappy on his part even though he understands the issue.
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It is a bit disengenious on the part of the bolt maker to label the bolts as 47mm without showing how this is derived. Without this then it is understandable how one could then see the "47mm" and believe the bolts are just 2mm longer than the factory ones and order them.
Just so it is clear then you should *not* use the new longer bolts.
I've cut bolts, shortened them. I prefer a hacksaw, not a grinder. The grinder can heat the bolt and cause some of the portion of the thread/bolt to lose temper.
I've threaded a nut on the bolt and positioned it where it is right at the excess length, then used the nut as a guide to help ensure a straight cut. I then use a file to chamfer the threads at the end of the bolt and a small triangle file to touch up the thread form.
Up to you. You might just send the bolts back and mark the cost down to experience and order the right size/style of bolts.
I bought it from TPI directly via Amazon.
Amazon.com: TPI C1984047F/SL - Porsche Lifetime Locking Bolt, Chrome,M14 x 1.50, 4 Locks + 1 Key /Clam, 47mm Shank Length: Automotive
Seller accepted the return but I needed to pay shipping... I contacted Amazon and they apologized and will credit me the shipping amount once I ship it back. Love Amazon!
So I still need polished silver locking bolts. This seller is the only one that sells them at a decent price.... he has 33mm shanks which are 3mm off form OEM ones. I REALLY don't want to give him business.
Anyone know where I can get polished or chrome silver locking bolts?
Seller accepted the return but I needed to pay shipping... I contacted Amazon and they apologized and will credit me the shipping amount once I ship it back. Love Amazon!
So I still need polished silver locking bolts. This seller is the only one that sells them at a decent price.... he has 33mm shanks which are 3mm off form OEM ones. I REALLY don't want to give him business.
Anyone know where I can get polished or chrome silver locking bolts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-x-1-5-chr...25.m3641.l6368
Not sure about quality, but check fitment guide for other ideas.
Not sure about quality, but check fitment guide for other ideas.
I found these but they are not the two piece design like the rest of them.
Really would prefer the two piece design a shinny finish to match the rest of my lug bolts.
Really would prefer the two piece design a shinny finish to match the rest of my lug bolts.
So how about running a locking bolt that is 4mm longer then OEM? Any issues with doing that? I won't run any spacers since my wheels are pushed out far enough.
Thanks
Thanks
I think a good description is needed to address lug bolt dimensions and the varied head designs like 45 and 60 degree tapered seat and rounded (ball head) seat designs.
This can lead to wheel damage and the loss of a wheel if seat is not matched to the wheel.
Same goes for wheel nuts. People buy over the counter and you can get the wrong stuff. It is your life and your passengers liives that is at stake !
Check the bolt grade indicated 12.9, 10.8, 8.8 etc. This should match the auto manufacturer's specification. The grade describes the Yield Stress which is very important when tightening wheels.
If you bolt your wheel up with the longer studs it will be end up against your disc. The force exerted by 5 bolts torqued to 130 Nm (95 lbs-ft will destroy your disc and lock yor wheel. Rather cut them (steel cutting disc and not hacksaw. Pause and cool off with water during cutting operation otherwise the hardness is destroyed) to size and use a die to restore the thread.
This can lead to wheel damage and the loss of a wheel if seat is not matched to the wheel.
Same goes for wheel nuts. People buy over the counter and you can get the wrong stuff. It is your life and your passengers liives that is at stake !
Check the bolt grade indicated 12.9, 10.8, 8.8 etc. This should match the auto manufacturer's specification. The grade describes the Yield Stress which is very important when tightening wheels.
If you bolt your wheel up with the longer studs it will be end up against your disc. The force exerted by 5 bolts torqued to 130 Nm (95 lbs-ft will destroy your disc and lock yor wheel. Rather cut them (steel cutting disc and not hacksaw. Pause and cool off with water during cutting operation otherwise the hardness is destroyed) to size and use a die to restore the thread.




