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By the way, as a follow up to using silicone in the fuel system, I actually pulled the fuel quantity sender connector apart today and sure enough, the silicone had broken down to a jelly like substance. This is only after a week being exposed to fuel vapour ( no direct contact with fuel). I ended up cleaning it all off and using and aerospace grade fuel tank polysulfide sealant.
Thanks for the good fuel system info;
My 05'tt died a block from home, and just fires and dies.
Pump runs, so electrics are ok.
Pulled the head out and looked over the hoses. They look ok.
Might try running the pump open to look for leaks.
What is the best way to hook a FP tester at the pump? or @ the filter...
Thanks for the good fuel system info;
My 05'tt died a block from home, and just fires and dies.
Pump runs, so electrics are ok.
Pulled the head out and looked over the hoses. They look ok.
Might try running the pump open to look for leaks.
What is the best way to hook a FP tester at the pump? or @ the filter...
by the fuel filter, there's a screw, take it out and plug the FP tester, do that first I picked up the fuel tester from local auto store - pep boys. here in US. i'm not sure where you from. I used a ziptie to hold FP tester to the lid. So you can see it while cranking, crank it, and see if the fuel pressure moves anywhere i'm 95% sure its your fuel pump.
Trust me you will able to hear it. priming etc, but if its not creating any pressure the car wont start. or dies after few sec.
Looks like they redesigned the fuel pump (new one comes without small rubber hoses) which is good. When you replace the fuel pump, do it outside. it smells, the worst part was to align everything and dipping your hands in the gas tank. gets nasty
Have any questions, pm me. I can help. I replaced it myself. good luck.
A reason for burnt connectors on Dodge Charger, Challenger and Chrysler 300 could be from cargo or passengers sitting in the back seat on the driver's side over the fuel pump. The weight on the seat cracks the plastic fuel pump cover and wiggles the connector causing the pins to heat up. If left too long, the pins will melt the plastic around them causing gas to leak through the connector and pour out on the ground mixing with oxygen which would then make it flammable. This happened to me twice, 5 months apart and at US$165 per fuel pump I'm glad the second one was under warranty. I made an aluminum cover plate which solved the problem. Haven't had any issues for a year. Check out: https://www.fuelconnectorfire.com/
Thought I would chime in because I discovered that the fuel pump/sender connector was beginning to melt on my 2003 996tt. My car has relatively low mileage at <40k, so not sure exactly what caused the issue. But I went ahead and replaced the pump with a new OEM unit (has revised hoses that eliminate the leak-prone U-bend piece), new venturi hoses, a new sender unit, and new sender gasket.
My connector had not melted entirely, and the car was still running great at the time I discovered the issue (I was prompted to check by this very thread). When I examined the connector, I noticed that the plastic around the ground pin showed some signs of melting, and the ground pin area on the sender itself was starting to brown from the heat.
As some of you have discovered, Porsche does not sell the black plastic connector/plug, which makes repair of a melted connector quite difficult. What I discovered is that you can source this part through Volkswagen, part number 357906231, although the two fuel pump wires in the VW unit are thinner-gauge than the 996tt part. You do not want to use this thinner wire. So, you are going to need to remove those two wires and replace them with 12 or 14 awg (I used 12, which seems to be slightly thicker than the stock wire used in the 996tt). Now, finding the right crimp connectors was not easy. But after a bunch of searching, I was able to locate them through Digi-Key. The part you want is 927829-2 (TE Connectivity AMP Connectors - 11-13 AWG Crimp). I ordered a whole assortment of similar connectors just to make sure I got the right ones, and they all ended up being identical to one another. With those connectors, you can crimp them onto a high-quality 12 awg wire (reuse the insulation plugs that come with the VW connector). Make sure you have the right crimp tool, or order one. A good crimp is important for a connection like this.
And there you have it - everything you need to replace and up-rate your fuel pump/sender connector. I strongly suggest everyone inspect these, as they have a tendency to overheat, particularly as the fuel pump ages. If yours goes out under WOT, it could result in a catastrophic lean condition and wreck your engine.
08-21-2016, 05:06 AM
I picked up the fuel tester from local auto store - pep boys. here in US. i'm not sure where you from. I used a ziptie to hold FP tester to the lid. So you can see it while cranking, crank it, and see if the fuel pressure moves anywhere i'm 95% sure its your fuel pump.
