These are the LCAs the BLKMGK has. The main body is a 996Cup LCA (same as street GT3) and the inner bearing is 997Cup (short version). I used identical LCA on both the front and rear and I could easily get -2 camber in the rear even at low ride heights of well below GT2. The 997RSR arms I run now are 5mm shorter. Again, there is something else going on here if both sides are coming up different. I've done plenty of alignments on these cars and it's very easy to get the camber eccentrics out of square if making the adjustment when the arms are loaded. This is easily overlooked and when it happens you have to totally unload the suspension to square them back up. Those that have done alignment on these cars know what I'm talking about. This is also a reason log of guys complain about the camber eccentrics "slipping". It's because they were not tightened down "square" and it's often overlooked.

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I have seen mostly the longer 997 inner monoballs. Didn't know they had shorter ones. Are they the same dimensions as the late 996 cup inners?

As for the tightening of the eccentrics squarely, do you mean they get tightened so the washers are sitting flush against the subframe because the bolts are cocked?

 

Yes. There are two versions of the 997Cup inner mono *****. The short version is used on the rear and the longer version is used on the front. I don't know the exact length of the 996 inner monoball but it's roughly the same as the short 997 version. The 997Cup/RSR LCA is the same front and rear, only the inner mono ***** are different. The 997 LCA (the forged smooth version) is actually 5mm shorter than the textured 996 LCA.

For street cars, you want to use the short monoball inners as you can easily add up to 15mm of shims and get +3.5 camber that way. Without shims you will be at less then 2 degrees. You can obviously get more or less depending you your upper mounts and the slots in the chassis.

The nature of the eccentric design makes it easy to get the eccentric bolt out of square relative to the subframe. Thus when it's tightened down that way it will have a tendency to slip. I may have it backwards, but if I recall, when the car is loaded you can easily add camber but removing camber will frequently get the bolt out of square. When this happens, you have to unload the suspension and make the adjustment before loading it back up. Often times guys will just try to muscle the eccentric bolt with is not the way to do it.

 

Thank you John! I was pretty certain you hadn't steered me wrong so I hope there's no misunderstanding. I agree something is whacky, sadly I'm not about to get my own alignment plates and start trying to do my own setups. I'll admit to some temptation though! Currently the car drives fine and the clunk is gone for sure but the rubbing sound is back after it warms up a bit so I've got some investigation left to do. Doesn't appear to be brakes as applying them doesn't stop it. Am suspecting I may have missed this and it was there prior to the work but I'm uncertain. Car handles fine so far but I've not pushed it yet and will sneak up on that as offramps allow. Can discern no added NVH and the wheel isn't rough either so despite some frustration I'd say the upgrade was a good move overall.