Blown Engine
I lost count at about 30 zip ties when I was putting fresh hoses on while the engine was out to pin and do a Gbox rebuild/clutch.
Zip ties are pretty much free and combined with new hoses, you'll save a lot of time chasing leaks.
Zip ties are pretty much free and combined with new hoses, you'll save a lot of time chasing leaks.
I had something similar happen to my Saab and it turned out to be water in the gasoline. I drained the tank and there was a good layer of water that floated to the top. Just a thought. Make sure your getting good fuel. Glad you got it up and running.
IMO it wouldn't be the usual power kit suspects or even fuel/knock. At this level the car can overcome all of that in several ways and even shut the TB. We are talking about a catted exhaust and pump gas tune. With less knock than factory in most cases. If you could log all cars and tunes you will almost always see some knock on pump unless custom tuned and even then in some conditions the car will pull some in dealing with changing conditions and pump fuel. I bet on mostly bad luck, fatigue, oiling/internal rotating assembly component failure or something like that.
My Saab was a bone stock 2004 9-5 Aero. Under full throttle on the highway boom, rod through the block and hole in the piston. I noticed that the gas station had been closed and tanks removed a week later prompting me to check the gas.
For people who think an off the shelf tune with increased boost cannot blow a motor needs to go to automotive school 101. Every single motor is different and needs to be tuned in that way.
I'm real sorry this happened to you...just some info for everyone on this thread I'm not sure if it's already been discussed...I've seen the inside of a 997 motor which is almost the same as a 996 with 55,000 miles ..the car was driven hard on track but was also a weekly sometimes daily driver....maintenance was done on point ...of those miles I would say 20 were on the track...car had started to see some bearing damage and he was sure glad that he opened the motor when he did...car was a full bolt on with 65mm vtg turbos...that was a good time to upgrade rods....and pin cams...he still owns and drives that same car with no other issues then a blown lsd...which he upgraded...hope all works out for you..
I always tell my clients to run 100 octane when then track the cars just for safety. These cars run crazy intake temps especially on a road course with a tune on it...
its suck and sorry to hear...
bust as some said, all that had to happen was your wg line came loose and boom... I find things popping off right after tuning because now the car sees more boost... thus I warn always to be careful...
good luck,
markski
its suck and sorry to hear...
bust as some said, all that had to happen was your wg line came loose and boom... I find things popping off right after tuning because now the car sees more boost... thus I warn always to be careful...
good luck,
markski
__________________

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
Sorry for your engine loss....
I track with Cobb custom map (from Sam at ByDesign). As has been mentioned by others, run highest octane you can get on the least aggressive tune you've got just for safety sake... No need to swing for the fences with your power at a DE, save that for the drag strip or 1/2 mile events where it'll make a difference.
I datalog my full sessions to review when I get home and use the Cobb's display to live monitor oil temp, IAT, and knock. You mention working with Sam, he will get you squared away and in good shape. We've went over my logs and made sure everything was spot on before my first DE after having his tune applied to my setup, he's made adjustments here and there when I request and doesn't hesitate to tell me that things are bad ideas when I ask for that as well.
Markski who posted above me is also a great person to listen to, as is Kevin from UMW who has also assisted me in the past. All assets to the community and you can't go wrong with any of those guys on your team.
For DE/tracking setup- read everything posted by pwdrhound.
I track with Cobb custom map (from Sam at ByDesign). As has been mentioned by others, run highest octane you can get on the least aggressive tune you've got just for safety sake... No need to swing for the fences with your power at a DE, save that for the drag strip or 1/2 mile events where it'll make a difference.
I datalog my full sessions to review when I get home and use the Cobb's display to live monitor oil temp, IAT, and knock. You mention working with Sam, he will get you squared away and in good shape. We've went over my logs and made sure everything was spot on before my first DE after having his tune applied to my setup, he's made adjustments here and there when I request and doesn't hesitate to tell me that things are bad ideas when I ask for that as well.
Markski who posted above me is also a great person to listen to, as is Kevin from UMW who has also assisted me in the past. All assets to the community and you can't go wrong with any of those guys on your team.
For DE/tracking setup- read everything posted by pwdrhound.
Sam is the Man!
Another shout-out to Sam. I have been custom tuning my car with him for several months now on both crappy 91 and 100. Logging is the key! He will get you sorted out for sure!!!
All is suspect.. Get the correct tune and data log. And NEVER EVER TRUST PUMP GAS while running aggressively or with a tune. Lots to consider with atmospheric conditions. When the hot weather hits, pay attention or slow it down.
I ran torco in the past with good results. I am going to run boostane in the near future. Boosters can wear out plugs and O2 sensors more quickly but do work to boost you from 91 to maybe 94.
Postmortem
Disclosure: I am lightyears away from being an expert.
Quick answer to my original question: "What are the chances the tune caused the engine to blow?" Very little.
Following a complete engine deconstruction by a top notch company (EvoSpec) here is my take away:
1. The engine failed do to the #2 rod bearing failure that caused a rod failure that damaged the rest of the engine.
2. The cause of this can be many things but most typically on racing cars (track/street) it’s due to heat and lack of oil on the bearing.
3. The #2 rod bearing is the last one to get oil so it can starve, especially on 996 engines with the first generation pump.
3. There was no evidence of problems specifically related to the Tune; however, understand that more HP = more heat. Heat is what breaks down the oil.
5. How not to blow the next engine:
a. Use a heavier oil 15w50 for more protection while racing and make sure to change it after every event. Oil deteriorates very quickly in racing conditions.
b. Install an oil temperature gauge and keep and eye on it when tracking. When it reads > 275* pull off the track to cool it back down. Short shifting will help some if you see the temp creeping up.
Many thanks to John Bray, owner EvoSpec, Phoenix, AZ. http://www.evo-spec.com/
Quick answer to my original question: "What are the chances the tune caused the engine to blow?" Very little.
Following a complete engine deconstruction by a top notch company (EvoSpec) here is my take away:
1. The engine failed do to the #2 rod bearing failure that caused a rod failure that damaged the rest of the engine.
2. The cause of this can be many things but most typically on racing cars (track/street) it’s due to heat and lack of oil on the bearing.
3. The #2 rod bearing is the last one to get oil so it can starve, especially on 996 engines with the first generation pump.
3. There was no evidence of problems specifically related to the Tune; however, understand that more HP = more heat. Heat is what breaks down the oil.
5. How not to blow the next engine:
a. Use a heavier oil 15w50 for more protection while racing and make sure to change it after every event. Oil deteriorates very quickly in racing conditions.
b. Install an oil temperature gauge and keep and eye on it when tracking. When it reads > 275* pull off the track to cool it back down. Short shifting will help some if you see the temp creeping up.
Many thanks to John Bray, owner EvoSpec, Phoenix, AZ. http://www.evo-spec.com/






