Blown Engine
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Yeah, it's purring like a kitten, you heard it Park. Zero issues, zero noises, nothing. It does however have 65 highly stressed hours on it and will have another 5 more before the end of the season bringing it to 70. I was originally going to wait to get 100hrs before teardown which would give me another season on it. However, after some deliberations I figured it may be prudent to tear it down a year early to play it safe. My reasoning it this:
500hp RSR motors have a prescribed rebuild interval of 35hrs. 997cup motors easily go double that and 380hp 996cup motors (330whp/250wtq) will easily go 100hrs and beyond even though they are normally rebuilt at a 100. These are all Mezgers. My engine is largely the same engine with many of the same parts. It does have a lower 7500 redline but with substantially greater stress pumped through it at 620whp/720wtq with the same oiling capacity as the other race Mezgers. The turbocharging does however cause oil temps to be 40-50F higher which does not help matters obviously.. As such, I figure that by pushing it to a 100hrs we may be in largely untested territory. I would rather give up 30hrs of use and break it down to find out it's in great shape and can easily go another 30hrs rather that have something let go in the next 30hrs and end up with a throwaway engine. Doing the rebuild 30hrs early will cost an extra $3500-4000 vs. doing it 1hr too late at a cost of $40-50K for a replacement engine. The math is easy as I figure it will cost $10-12K tops for a full refresh. I have a feeling that the engine will look great once apart but there is only one way to be sure. If it looks great, that I will know we can go with a longer interval next time. I like to change / time out parts preemptively which is why my car has been so utterly reliable up till now. I don't like to wait for things to break. This approach has always treated me well. Just my $0.02..
500hp RSR motors have a prescribed rebuild interval of 35hrs. 997cup motors easily go double that and 380hp 996cup motors (330whp/250wtq) will easily go 100hrs and beyond even though they are normally rebuilt at a 100. These are all Mezgers. My engine is largely the same engine with many of the same parts. It does have a lower 7500 redline but with substantially greater stress pumped through it at 620whp/720wtq with the same oiling capacity as the other race Mezgers. The turbocharging does however cause oil temps to be 40-50F higher which does not help matters obviously.. As such, I figure that by pushing it to a 100hrs we may be in largely untested territory. I would rather give up 30hrs of use and break it down to find out it's in great shape and can easily go another 30hrs rather that have something let go in the next 30hrs and end up with a throwaway engine. Doing the rebuild 30hrs early will cost an extra $3500-4000 vs. doing it 1hr too late at a cost of $40-50K for a replacement engine. The math is easy as I figure it will cost $10-12K tops for a full refresh. I have a feeling that the engine will look great once apart but there is only one way to be sure. If it looks great, that I will know we can go with a longer interval next time. I like to change / time out parts preemptively which is why my car has been so utterly reliable up till now. I don't like to wait for things to break. This approach has always treated me well. Just my $0.02..
All good points.
Does the RSR crank have the smaller rod journals like the GT3 street/cup? Any weight savings? Did you do anything to the top end or increase redline? I do know that the idea with the TT crank is larger rod journals for added strength. With a smaller journal I would expect a tune to consider torque curve for a safety margin. Or is the RSR crank up to the turbo torque curve?
I guess overall, what was the deciding factor for an RSR crank?
Does the RSR crank have the smaller rod journals like the GT3 street/cup? Any weight savings? Did you do anything to the top end or increase redline? I do know that the idea with the TT crank is larger rod journals for added strength. With a smaller journal I would expect a tune to consider torque curve for a safety margin. Or is the RSR crank up to the turbo torque curve?
I guess overall, what was the deciding factor for an RSR crank?
Yes, the RSR crank has a smaller diameter but greater width rod journal. The smaller diameter in turn reduces the speed between the journal and rod. The RSR crank is fully counterbalanced and several pounds lighter than the TT crank. If I recall, it was 2 lbs lighter when I compared them side by side on a scale 3 years ago when my engine was built. As I mentioned before, all the GT3/RSR cranks have dual oiling passages 180º apart on each rod journal vs. a single oil passage on the TT crank. For race motors that see sustained high rpm operation this additional oiling is paramount.
I have no hard data of the strength of the RSR v. TT cranks, but have never heard of a failure in either. I run 720 ft.lbs of torque to the wheels (probably 800+ at the crank?) though engine without issues. If anything, I have heard that the TT crank is subjected to greater loads due to the fact that it is not fully counterbalanced. I'm certainly no expert, but this certainly makes sense as my engine runs smooth as silk with the RSR crank. There is simply none of the IMS rattle nor the LWFW rattle (I run an 11lb FW) that these engines have with the TT crank. Additionally, one well respected tuner has told me that the TT crank (which is a 993TT part) is actually rather "soft" and does allow for a bit of flex. I don't know how one would measure that but bottom line he also recommends the RSR/GT3 crank in any engine build.
As far as the deciding factor for the RSR crank? Chris Cervelli built my engine and he's built countless RSR and Cup motors over the years. Chris is one of the finest race engine builders in my opinion and I left it in his hands to build the most reliable engine for my intended use. He would not consider building a high rpm race motor without using race proven crank. Personally, simply knowing that you have twice the oiling capacity makes this a no brainer in my book. Porsche has figured this out, they are not stupid.
Last edited by pwdrhound; Sep 27, 2017 at 11:39 AM.
Gearbox temps are not a problem as long as you have a cooler. I have a large air to liquid gearbox cooler and temp stay well under 250F even in the hottest ambient temps. I also have another GT2 gearbox with the liquid to liquid OEM gearbox cooler and will run that next year. It will be interesting to see which set up is more efficient.
Last edited by pwdrhound; Sep 27, 2017 at 11:43 AM.
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
I had my heads done by Todd McKenzie who built the heads with 9000rpm valve train. The limiting factor are the rather heavy hydraulic lifters but even street GT3s use those. We use a conservative 7500 redline and the engine pulls like a freight train all the way there. On Motec I frequently see 7600-7800 on data during upshifts. RSR/Cup motors have lightweight lifters which is one of the reasons whey they can rev so high. RSR/GT3 R motors go to 9400.
Yes, the RSR crank has a smaller diameter but greater width rod journal. The smaller diameter in turn reduces the speed between the journal and rod. The RSR crank is fully counterbalanced and several pounds lighter than the TT crank. If I recall, it was 2 lbs lighter when I compared them side by side on a scale 3 years ago when my engine was built. As I mentioned before, all the GT3/RSR cranks have dual oiling passages 180º apart on each rod journal vs. a single oil passage on the TT crank. For race motors that see sustained high rpm operation this additional oiling is paramount.
I have no hard data of the strength of the RSR v. TT cranks, but have never heard of a failure in either. I run 720 ft.lbs of torque to the wheels (probably 800+ at the crank?) though engine without issues. If anything, I have heard that the TT crank is subjected to greater loads due to the fact that it is not fully counterbalanced. I'm certainly no expert, but this certainly makes sense as my engine runs smooth as silk with the RSR crank. There is simply none of the IMS rattle nor the LWFW rattle (I run an 11lb FW) that these engines have with the TT crank. Additionally, one well respected tuner has told me that the TT crank (which is a 993TT part) is actually rather "soft" and does allow for a bit of flex. I don't know how one would measure that but bottom line he also recommends the RSR/GT3 crank in any engine build.
As far as the deciding factor for the RSR crank? Chris Cervelli built my engine and he's built countless RSR and Cup motors over the years. I left it in his hands to build the most reliable engine for my intended use. He would not consider building a high rpm race motor without using race proven crank. Personally, simply knowing that you have twice the oiling capacity makes this a no brainer in my book. Porsche has figured this out, they are not stupid.
Yes, the RSR crank has a smaller diameter but greater width rod journal. The smaller diameter in turn reduces the speed between the journal and rod. The RSR crank is fully counterbalanced and several pounds lighter than the TT crank. If I recall, it was 2 lbs lighter when I compared them side by side on a scale 3 years ago when my engine was built. As I mentioned before, all the GT3/RSR cranks have dual oiling passages 180º apart on each rod journal vs. a single oil passage on the TT crank. For race motors that see sustained high rpm operation this additional oiling is paramount.
I have no hard data of the strength of the RSR v. TT cranks, but have never heard of a failure in either. I run 720 ft.lbs of torque to the wheels (probably 800+ at the crank?) though engine without issues. If anything, I have heard that the TT crank is subjected to greater loads due to the fact that it is not fully counterbalanced. I'm certainly no expert, but this certainly makes sense as my engine runs smooth as silk with the RSR crank. There is simply none of the IMS rattle nor the LWFW rattle (I run an 11lb FW) that these engines have with the TT crank. Additionally, one well respected tuner has told me that the TT crank (which is a 993TT part) is actually rather "soft" and does allow for a bit of flex. I don't know how one would measure that but bottom line he also recommends the RSR/GT3 crank in any engine build.
As far as the deciding factor for the RSR crank? Chris Cervelli built my engine and he's built countless RSR and Cup motors over the years. I left it in his hands to build the most reliable engine for my intended use. He would not consider building a high rpm race motor without using race proven crank. Personally, simply knowing that you have twice the oiling capacity makes this a no brainer in my book. Porsche has figured this out, they are not stupid.
Last edited by VAGscum; Sep 27, 2017 at 11:54 AM.
Makes sense. What is the difference between the different GT3 cranks? Also, did you switch to the 959 PN IMS shaft? I remember the INS noise in our cars being related to the IMS gear keyway and also the gear lash between the gear on the TT IMS shaft and gear on the crank being sloppy.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...next-year.html
I will be swapping in the single piece IMS shaft. There are several options, either the 959 part number IMS or the 997 part number IMS that is used in the 997RSR. We will probably swap in the RSR IMS barring an astronomical price tag from Porsche Motorsport. I'm not buying the IMS noise being caused by the stock IMS on our cars. The only way it would cause more noise is if the bolts were backed out and the IMS gear was allowed to wobble. If that's the case, catastrophic failure would surely follow. If the bolts are tight, there can be no more play than in the single piece IMS. I have the bolted IMS currently and the noise is not there. I attribute the lack of noise it to the crank and maybe different harmonics of the 3.8 engine. Just my $0.02 of course...
Last edited by pwdrhound; Sep 27, 2017 at 10:42 PM.
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Here is a link to the various cranks. The stock 3.6 GT3 crank has the rough textured finish. The Motorsport RSR crank has the smooth finish.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...next-year.html
I will be swapping in the single piece IMS shaft. There are several options, either the 959 part number IMS or the 997 part number IMS that is used in the 997RSR. We will probably swap in the RSR IMS barring an astronomical price tag from Porsche Motorsport. I'm not buying the IMS noise being caused by the stock IMS on our cars. I have that IMS currently and the noise is not there. I attribute the lack of noise it to the crank and maybe different harmonics of the 3.8 engine. Just my $0.02 of course...
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...next-year.html
I will be swapping in the single piece IMS shaft. There are several options, either the 959 part number IMS or the 997 part number IMS that is used in the 997RSR. We will probably swap in the RSR IMS barring an astronomical price tag from Porsche Motorsport. I'm not buying the IMS noise being caused by the stock IMS on our cars. I have that IMS currently and the noise is not there. I attribute the lack of noise it to the crank and maybe different harmonics of the 3.8 engine. Just my $0.02 of course...
According to the 996 RSR, Cup and GT3 street parts catalogs, the crankshaft are all PN 99610202192. Guessing the weight difference is due to smaller journals and more oil passage drilling. Not sure if anyone has done it yet on our cars, but I know other 911 builds people will get their cranks smoothed, profiled counterweights, additional oil passages drilled and balanced. Of course nothing beats motorsports proven factory parts either though.
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
There are many variants of these cranks with many supercessions. I know the street 996GT3 cranks have the rough textured finish. The RSR cranks have the smooth finish and likely improved oil galleys but I'm no expert. Interestingly these cranks are still relatively inexpensive. I'm not too sure about all the modified cranks. I would stick with the Porsche Motorsport stuff. Hard to go wrong there...
Again, many variants of these. The 3.6GT3 crank is pictured in the rennlist thread above and it has the rough finish. Don't quote me but I believe the smooth Motorsport crank is what went in the RSR and variants of it also made it into the later generation GT3s. The 4.0 has a totally different crank. Trying to decipher all the various part numbers that went into all the different cars will give you a headache.
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Again, many variants of these. The 3.6GT3 crank is pictured in the rennlist thread above and it has the rough finish. Don't quote me but I believe the smooth Motorsport crank is what went in the RSR and variants of it also made it into the later generation GT3s. The 4.0 has a totally different crank. Trying to decipher all the various part numbers that went into all the different cars will give you a headache.
I don't know, it just calls it a 3.6 crank. Seeing they offer the crank for GT2 and GT3 and without a part number visible in the pics of the 3.6 crank it is hard to say for sure. The porsche parts catalogs call the street/cup/RSR cranks to be the same up until the later 997 cups and RSR. And the -92/94/95/96 are all superseded versions of the exact same part. Without any 996 GT3 street crank pictures i would venture to say that the marketing pictures GMG provides could in fact be a turbo crank. One thing is for sure, our cranks do have much to improve upon.
Last edited by pwdrhound; Sep 27, 2017 at 10:55 PM.
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Again, many variants of these. The 3.6GT3 crank is pictured in the rennlist thread above and it has the rough finish. Don't quote me but I believe the smooth Motorsport crank is what went in the RSR and variants of it also made it into the later generation GT3s. The 4.0 has a totally different crank. Trying to decipher all the various part numbers that went into all the different cars will give you a headache.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/GRQaHr]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/21Nv8dF]
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Here is the Porsche Motorsport 997RSR billet IMS we will be installing in the engine when it goes down for a rebuild next month. This is a 997 Motorsport PN, not the 959 PN IMS which is used in the 996GT3, 996Cup, and some 997GT3 and 997Cup engines. Contrary to what is rumored, the 959 part is NOT compatible with the Turbo/GT2 engine.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/GRQaHr]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/21Nv8dF]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/GRQaHr]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/21Nv8dF]

The snub nose on the back of the 959 IMS is different. There are several versions of the IMS with slight variation in size but mainly a difference in the snub nose depending whether the engine is a 3.6, 3.8 or 4.0.



