have you checked the wastegate actuators/flaps...

 

sorry, i missed that. yeah, it'd be continual.

 

both are starting to move around 6psi, no leaks and move freely. Markski had me check those.

 

If am overboosting as well. This is probably what blew my motor last time I ran it hard. No shutdown however. It doesn't seem like my wastegates are doing anything. I'll check some of the things mentioned above.

 

just noticed this post...you can test these in that system? I have the cable, but I sure don't want to mess anything up. Am I even capable of messing anything up with the durametric?

 

Not at all, you are just sending an electrical signal to the valves and you will hear a click if the valve is functioning correctly....

 

Out of curiosity, would it be possible for this to click yet also have a leak somewhere in the valve? (Same goes for other tests like the EVAP Purge valve)

 

Yes, I think so. The click being only a solenoid operation.....

 

I finally did some testing on my car (experiencing overboost to 1.5 bar when set at 1.2)

1. I did the Durametric test and I do hear the solenoid clicking.

2. I did a boost pressure test and I found the T fitting that connects the two divirter valves to be leaking. I put the hose on tighter and zip tied them.

3. The waste gates open and close when I do the boost leak test the same with the key both on and off.

4. I checked my N75 valve hoses and they are secure with no leaks.

I suspect my N75 may be malfunctioning somehow so I am going to order a new one since it is a pretty cheap part. I'm not sure if the leak I found would cause my problems. I'll report back once I install it.

 

Checked my wastegate tension and they are quite loose, opening at 12psi. I imagine this could be throwing off the ecu.

 

^ ( glomming onto other's threads with this, but it seems timely enough.

i just replaced my maf as the car was idle fluctuating which cured that. but NOT my somewhat/occasional *over*boosting condition which i was sure were related ( spikes 1.4..and have seen even 1.5 on a 1.3 bar tune.. ) and while i don't suspect any vac leaks, i have not yet pressure tested ( soon ) and no codes.

so, can i ( and safe to? ) actually disconnect the n75 and run the car as a comparison in the same way one can simply unplug the maf and see if there's a difference in how it runs? i have always been under the impression that the n75 controls boost and i have checked my wg's ( 1.0 actuators ) and they are ( or were? ) set properly. awhile back, i replaced my n75 along with a #16 cv, and wouldn't suspect they had gone bad so soon.

anyone know offhand how many turns on the wg's adjusters would be in the ballpark?

 

I've been running without a boost controller (N75 or EBC) for a while with 0.9 bar springs in my external wastegates. The boost is very on/off with no controller but it's consistently running 0.9 bars. Your N75 should fail open but it could fail closed, or it might be a leaking line. If you put pressure directly to the wastegates you should be boosting right around 1 bar.

 

thanks i still have some figuring to do. so if you have your wg's set so boost doesn't exceed .9, does this act as an "external" bc? if so, it leads me to believe that mine are opening sooner than they should. would this explain higher boost ( on the gauge ) than should be, given my setup?

my car used to live at 1.2, w spikes to 1.3.. and now it's up to 1.2, w 1.4 spikes. it's bugging me lol

 

did you tamp down the adjustment ( yet )? i ask because i wonder if mine is a simple wg adjustment. though I've been down this road before, i may need to mess with them again.

 

I call it direct control since the boost pressure goes directly to the wastegates. If you're getting higher boost, your wastegates aren't opening. Could be a mechanical issue with the gates or an air leak on the tubing to them.