The turbos are of origins.

Otherwise, I have to open the engine, no luck!

 

that sucks, keep us posted, what year ? and miles on the car?

 

Everything was dismantled, checked, scrutinized, and no sign of this cursed flight, either on the joints or on the cylinder heads and casings.

I brought to a specialist the cylinder heads and the casings with the liners to have them check to the waterproof level.

I also put under pressure the different parts or water and oil are in contact, nothing, nada.

Fortunately, camshafts, crankshafts and bearings are not marked, just wear due to mileage (177'000 km), and even the original clutch has no sign of fatigue and would have kept a lot of km.

 

Strange, probably a head gasket lifting under boost. Def get yourself some rods and the evoms headstuds.

 

I would love to be by your side when you rebuild this engine and especially when you time the cams.....Need someone in my area that is doing the same ;-)

 

Timing the cams

 

For reassembly, I will have the workshop manual and the specific tools.

For now, I have to find the source of the leak.

 

Here is the news: the breeches have nothing!

So we continue research on:




It may be that the o-ring of the shirts let the water pass ..... This is my last chance, car after I do not see or can pass the water in the oil, because I checked in pressure and depression, the following elements:

There I checked the sealing of part 1, with the old and the new exchanger, no leak.



And here I checked part 1, also no leak.

 

I found my leak, it is confirmed that the water passes to the level of the o-ring cylinder liners.

Rest more than to rebuild everything, and change everything that needs to be changed, and it will cost an arm!

 

I think a lifted head can cause it, the cylinder pressure can go all over the place. Improved head studs are the way to go. I like the Evoms 10mm units.

 

Get 12's done if you are going big power. 10's are a good improvement otherwise.

 

I'm just saying that even a 1 cycle torque with upgraded 10's is better than stockers.

 

I looked at the Evoms site, and I only found the head studs in 10mm !

It's really worth going up, because it still costs $ 995.

 

I searched on Silly Rabbit Motorsport, but I could not find anything!

 

And another question, if you put 12mm, it passes or you have to machine?