Got 'em! Whew!

I called some Porsche tech friends and found the exact placement of the frunk emergency release wire. Apparently it could be in a few different places. For my 02 turbo is was either under the passenger side headlight which you would need to prop up slightly to get to it, or inside the front bumper cover above the front radiator. I found my wire inside the bumper cover above the radiator...you'll need to pull the grill out and the center air vent duct down to access it.

The dealer service dept was absolutely no help. They told me they rarely work on older cars anymore and don't have any advice except to tow the car in and they will order a set of keys from Germany $500+.

 

By the way guys, just FYI, the dealer told me they would not be able to program the fob without the car being turned on.

Thanks for all the help, everyone.
I hope this thread helps someone in the future.

 

Great news!

 

The spare key is more of a preventative type thing. You need access to the odbII port etc to program a key.

 

If you have the key to open the door or you can finagle some other way to open the door, you can jump wires on the alarm module to pop the front lid or rear lid. You don't need the fob for this, you do need to remove the seat to get at the alarm module. If you have the fob you can use the emergency pull out thing on the fusebox.

Step 1. Get into the car somehow. Hopefully with the key. If not 2 pulls on the driver's inside door release.
Step 2. Remove driver's seat.
Step 3. Unplug alarm module.
Step 4. To pop the frunk, apply 12V to the A33 pin of the alarm module plug. It's a brown/black wire. If you're using an external battery (of course you are, if you could use the onboard battery you wouldn't need to do this) attach ground to the door latch like the manual shows.

The rear lid is harder, it's wired differently.
Step 1, 2, 3 the same as above.
Step 4. Pull Fuse D7. Apply 12V from your external battery to the "top" terminal in the fusebox that goes to D7.
Step 5. Apply ground from your external battery to pin A34 of the alarm module plug. It's a blue/black wire.

Obviously the emergency loops are easier.

 

Great idea...

I zip tied mine to the inside of the tow hook plug in the front bumper. Easy access also.

 

Thats interesting....But this is only if the battery is dead because once the door is open you can use the switch to operate the frunk or the engine compartment access. Just to be sure, you are mentioning A34 for the engine compartment and I can see it in the wiring diagram but for the frunk it is also mention A33 cover opener front and A31 cover front ? Also you apply the voltage to the alarm control unit or to the plug because when I look at A33, the black and brown wire, goes to "luggage compartment hood drive" ? A31 seems to go to the close switch....(just realized it goes to the opener after...)

 

You are correct: front should be A33. I edited my post above.

Apply voltage to the plug not the alarm module.

If the battery is dead you can use the emergency terminal in the fuse box - that is, if you have the keyfob! If you haven't got the keyfob then the emergency terminal won't help.

If you open the door with the key instead of the keyfob, and don't use the keyfob shortly thereafter, I believe the alarm system disables the front & rear lid release switches. My trick gets you into the frunk if your only fob is inside - as it bypasses the alarm module.

 

Thanks for this clarification....

 

So if I get an new key and fob the dealer should be able to program it and cut the key. What about the ID chip? Does it come with the key blade or fob?

 

The fob will come with all the electrical Hardware that you need. You will just need a mechanical keyblade to go with it and have it programmed to your car. Make sure you keep all the paperwork that comes with the fob because they will need that information for the programming

 

In fact two important numbers you need for programming, the IPAS code, that you can get from the dealer, and a 24 digits code number that come with a new key on a label with a bar code.... Remember when you go to the dealer for key programming, all keys still in your possession are required for programming.

 

There are two identifiers in the key... The "pill" which needs to be in proximity to the steering column to start the car and the radio transmitter that opens the door. When you buy a new full fob (not just the case) you should get both. The code that comes with the fob allows the dealer to register that particular key so the car will allow it to open the door and allow the "pill" to start the engine.

 

Take Steve’s advice an re-route the cable so it lays flush just under the passenger headlamp assembly.

That way, all you ever need to open the frunk in an emergency is a needlenose plier to grab it with.

Saves a lot of grief.