check out fortune auto coilovers. They are more affordable than pss10 and come with top plates as well.

 

Is that like 4000 in parts? Sounds steep. Could be done in 10 hours.

 

if it were me, and for a "street car" with some canyon carving? i think you should follow your own advice here!

VS a cpl/few grand for non adjustable and never have to mess with 'em, perfectly reliable B8's and H&R sport springs plus new mm's/997 t-mount. throw in a nice gt3 sway bar for the rear? good to go. no muss, no fuss. spend the money saved on some new 18" wheels and tires.

and voila, new car lol

 

labor was 12 hours and ~$2k. PSS10 alone were $3k.

Hopefully inspection will show some parts are not necessary

Re the tires discussion, yes OP is going to stick with 19s. I really like the "dish" of the rear wheels that are on the car

 

I like the 19's, 305's are a good tire.

 

Cheap mod that seem to work rather well is loading the voids in the transmission and engine mounts with window weld....1 tube @ 20.00 will do all three. Works for me

 

+1

Except I will not be using the saved money on 18s for the 6TT... it will go towards coaching, entry fees and upkeep for my Miata

Tire change and inspection for suspension and engine/gearbox mounts wear this weekend, then the changes you outlined after that.

B8 + H&R springs are $1.5k new from tirerack. If anyone wants to sell me used JRZ pro or Ohlins caliber of coilovers ~$2k that would change my plans.....

 

Looks like another option is to use Eccentric bushings that elephant racing sells that can increase/decrease toe in by 6mm. Has anyone tried them?

 

Just installed a set of the elephant eccentric bushings with my H&R springs and B8 shocks. Worked exactly as planed.

 

Great, good to know they work. Was concerned that with only 6mm of adjustment that it may not be enough. I may go this route, thanks.

 

understand toe adjustment is done in small increments as its effect is multiplied at the wheel/measurement.. 6mm is huge

 

I've been running H&R Street Coilovers on mine for a while now. With 19x8.5 and 19x11 wheels wrapped with 225-40-19 and 295-30-19. My sidewalls are pretty much exactly the same height as stock 996TT so there is no additional harshness to the ride from the 19's and also my OZ 19's are lighter than stock hollow spokes so response is excellent as well.

If I would have gone with the recommended 315-25-19 I could definitely understand why people would complain about increased harshness. Not the case if using tires that give you stock sidewall height.

When I purchased my 996TT it was 100% stone stock and I drove it that way for about 1 year. When I switched to the H&R coilovers and GT2 inspired alignment specs it transformed the car. The ride was slightly firmer than stock but with better composure than stock! It felt firmer but absorbed bumps better and the more aggressive GT2 alignment specs woke up the steering as well.

Basically, all I needed were the coilover kit (under $2000) + rear toe links (about $400)...that's it. (I also opted for rear lock out plates at about $100) This allowed the car to be dialed in perfectly at the new lower height.

When I first removed the front shocks I thought the upper shock bushings/mounts were OK but upon much closer inspection I noticed some very small hairline cracks in the rubber so I replaced the bushings and the bearings as well. My car was really well cared for and babied all it's life and even so, it still needed the front upper bushings/mounts replaced. I think age is the factor here so plan on replacing those almost for sure. The rear upper mounts were pretty much perfect so just inspect them.

Good luck with your decision

 

I found this thread after changing my rear lower control arm thrust bushings with solids.

If my car is any indication ('03, 50k miles), your rear thrust bushings are in need of attention too. My main goal was to address tire wear and a hint of bump steer and stability under braking. Worn thrust bushings cause toe changes under load.

I would head pwdrhound's advice as I've found it on point every time.

Here's a pic where you can clearly tell it's permanently off center. Along with the custom puller I kludged together to do it on car.

 

rear suspension lovesss monoball/solid... just feels right when done.
front end responds very well to similar, but adds more nvh than similar to rear... but its damn good...
monoball everything with good dampers//// winning.

 

I researched suspension to death and ended up asking advice from our good friend SamboTT on here.

I bought KW V1 coilovers and some other bits (sway bars, rear toe links) and I'm very happy with the handling and ride quality now.

Handles like a racecar and it's a LOT more comfortable than stock. Best of both worlds.