Why do chipped TT's blow MAF's more often than stock?
Why do chipped TT's blow MAF's more often than stock?
After ready tons of your posts about blowing MAF's, I've noticed over 90% of the cars have been chipped. In fact I can't think of a thread I've read where this has happened to a stock setup. What's the deal?
You will probably find that most of those cars have some sort of aftermarket reusable performance filter such as K&N. Performance filters are good but must be oiled properly. If they are over oiled and get on the MAF sensor you will need to replace it. Quality software shouldn't be the reason for a MAF sensor going bad.
Originally Posted by Up On 3 Racing
You will probably find that most of those cars have some sort of aftermarket reusable performance filter such as K&N. Performance filters are good but must be oiled properly. If they are over oiled and get on the MAF sensor you will need to replace it. Quality software shouldn't be the reason for a MAF sensor going bad.
This is not a problem that can be blamed 100% on aftermarket filters, or software. Many stock cars have these issues as well, you just dont hear about it nearly as much because Porsche warranties the MAF instead of blaming it on the filter. I see this on a daily basis. The oiled filters definately shorten the service intervals on the MAF though. Marc
Originally Posted by TwinStepGun
After ready tons of your posts about blowing MAF's, I've noticed over 90% of the cars have been chipped. In fact I can't think of a thread I've read where this has happened to a stock setup. What's the deal?
As for the MAF going bad...
It will either go back because the "hot wire" is getting too much voltage (fries it) or the wire gets contaminated by dirt (aftermarket air filters *can* contribute to this with their oil). A chipped ECU can have incorrect parameters...
MAF's fail for a few reasons, contamination can send them off, but can usually be cleaned. Another often overlooked problems is actually the MAF plug, poor or corroded connections, and the MAF gets blamed when you replace it with a new one, and the only thing you really accomplished was to renew the continuity ( good contact ) and blame the MAF. When a MAF craps the bed, the car runs poorly or doesnt run at all, and you get all sorts of codes, that can be traced back to the MAF with a little deductive logic. Generally the failure mode has been the substrate lamination, delaminating and allowing corrosion of the circuitry or the pc ( printed circuit) breaking.
Look for TSB's online, generally the VW and Audi sites have a wealth of info.
I have gotten a lot of my background info from VW/Audi techline, and of course servicing VW/P/A.
Look for TSB's online, generally the VW and Audi sites have a wealth of info.
I have gotten a lot of my background info from VW/Audi techline, and of course servicing VW/P/A.
I dont think filters or chip mods are always directly responsible for MAF failure. I think these MAFs have a finite lifespan and can gradually deteriorate over time. Of course oil or water can rapidly destroy a MAF but without such insults many MAFs fail randomly over time. I think when you mod the car you suddenly force alot more air past the MAF which instantly exposes any deficiencies which may have developed slowly over time. Thus mods get associated with MAF failures imo...
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Sorry for the questions, but the search function is not working still...
1. How do you know if the MAF has blown?
2. Is it just replaced with an OEM MAF or is there a better aftermarket performance one for that?
Thanks!
1. How do you know if the MAF has blown?
2. Is it just replaced with an OEM MAF or is there a better aftermarket performance one for that?
Thanks!
Originally Posted by DeeMan007
Sorry for the questions, but the search function is not working still...
1. How do you know if the MAF has blown?
2. Is it just replaced with an OEM MAF or is there a better aftermarket performance one for that?
Thanks!
1. How do you know if the MAF has blown?
2. Is it just replaced with an OEM MAF or is there a better aftermarket performance one for that?
Thanks!
2. You should replace it with the Porsche turbo OEM part. Some people have suggested replacing it with the Boxster MAF, but that will cause a higher idle and other issues unless you are modded to stage 4 or higher. If you need a new one, give Stephen (Nathan, actually) a call at Imagine Auto and they will ship you over one rather quickly.
I just replaced mine and did a few tests (some with the Boxster MAF) less than 1 month ago. If you have any questions, please drop me a PM. I might be able to save you some heartache.
Last edited by Ruiner; Feb 23, 2006 at 06:50 PM.



