Pics of the flywheel and clutch. Should this flywheel be resurfaced or replaced?

 

i've always been told. when the material on the dmfw has sufficiently worn? replace.

 

That might be OK. You supposedly can't re surface the flywheel because of the rubber in it. It has too much give to get it perfect.

 

20 minutes with a 80 grit random orbital sander. Got the heated shiny spots cleaned up. The flywheel appears to be flat based on putting a true straight edge across several spots.

 

after pic sure beats "before". this one's a "first" for me so i suppose it'll work until it doesn't. good job.

 

I figured what the heck. Now, a kingdom for a clutch alignment tool!

 

ha, that clutch fork had us stymied for at least an hour! in/out repeat. you know the deal.

 

Put the clutch and pressure plate in place with the bolts loose. Carefully feel through the slots to locate the disc and the pressure plate. Slowly and carefully tighten up the pressure plate bolts while "fingering" the slots to center the disc on the pressure plate. No alignment tool needed.

 

You could likely find a universal alignment tool at Harbor Freight reasonably priced. Have used mine on just about everything as it comes with quite a few pilot adaptors

 

I know in some cases Porsche techs send flywheels out to be resurfaced. The dual mass feature is first tested to ensure it is functioning correctly and the flywheel carefully inspected to ensure it has no apparent issues (like cracking) that would prevent its continued use. I do not know if wear can be an issue and if so I do not have any info in what wear limits there are.

Why the clutch is being replaced also plays a role. If the clutch is just worn out -- in one case I'm aware of to the point the rivets were making contact with the flywheel and had worn a depression in the flywheel face -- the flywheel can be resurfaced.

But if the clutch was slipping badly which can overheat the flywheel and cause hard spots to form on its friction surface (and that of the pressure plate) resurfacing the flywheel may not remove these hard spots, so to avoid the risk of a bring back the tech will elect to replace the flywheel.

 

You can check if its ok or not. But now the gearbox is out....i would change it for a single mass flywheel. Thats way more fun to drive.

 

I certainly looked into that and it is hard to believe this car gets even more fun to drive. Modding these cars is a slope more slippery than a snow covered street in Seattle! Going to stick with this one for now.

 

Whenever the tech had the clutch out of my Turbo upon reassembly he always replaced the clutch control shaft needle bearings.

 

Are you referring to the needle bearings on the fork shaft?

 

With the 10 hours it take to R&R the clutch, i would not put it back together with a DMFW with more than a few miles on it. Cheap insurance. I think mine is going out as it makes the car have sort of the jump under both acceleration and deceleration at very slight throttle settings. Almost seems like a stumble, but it is getting worse and is staring to feel like more of a mechanical jump rather that an engine hiccup.