i had a second audio guy take a cursory glance at my half finished setup and he says the fibre optic signal to the amp w MOST ( with converter i had installed ) is good. so now it's checking all wiring that is new VS old and especially to the sub.

he suspects my old BOSE amp is operational but that something ( the sub ) is causing the amp to go into "protect" mode. bad connection? still a mystery.

but - which would explain why i was getting intermittent operation from my factory setup and "phantom" on/off.

to add to my misery. i went today for my appt to get this hopefully sorted, to find the owner was short on "help". says they're all staying home collecting "welfare".

now friday i go to get my HVAC system diagnosed that the Best Buy knucklehead munched upon the dbl din install.

this is what happens when you're in podunk pine cone country with one porsche every thousand miles and just as few competent techs. the MOST system of my '03 did not help, however.

this **** would never have happened in LA - OR to my old BOSE pre-MOST '02 996tt. argh.

 

Well you could always sell the BOSE amp to fund going for an aftermarket more simple setup.

 

the original bose amp it appears, was failing - but intermittently adding to the confusion. but would not at all power the kenwood that i had installed.

so after a couple hours today with a car audio shop owner - i had to make the decision to bypass the bose amp completely which has resulted in a fully operational apple play capable head unit with ( only ) all six mid/tweeters operational. the bonus is that for some completely unknown reason my HVAC and AC after pulling the dbl din out along with the aftermarket analog to "MOST" converter i installed - thinking it would be all i needed to retain the factory bose sub - has thankfully restored all functionality of the re-located HVAC controls. i'm not sure that was the added component that caused this HVAC issue of no AC. but no longer care to know.

the bad news remaining is i have now have no "lows" or bass response to speak of - and i'll have to deal with the lack of the rear sub woofer at another time. my thinking is i simply need a working used bose amp to replace my originally failed one. as i need to match the ohm ratings of the existing speakers and sub. or now continue to spend on replacing all the speakers.

e.g. - if i bought a new 5 channel amp. i'd have to r&r all the speakers. can't deal with all that **** time or money. i drive the car as it's intended to be driven and sound is just an added convenience.. so all that i-tunes/maps/phone stuff ( that at least i now do have ) was going to simply be a bonus for me. so it now works.

truth is. i could have lived with the old single din becker radio and the sub working properly. but alas.

i'm just glad also that i miraculously again have full AC. that was a scary result of a "geek squad" improper install job.

this has been an education and i'm glad there won't be a quiz. whew.

 

Um so like just follow what I said and you will be fine for the rest of the speakers. Or don't. I had the same crappy setup where an aftermarket deck was running a subset of the 10+ speakers.

Remove MOST anything since you have an aftermarket deck. Then you need to run RCA 2 or 3 whatever you want to use. Aftermarket amp then wire in smart fashion. Done, adjust via deck settings.

 

Sounds like a debacle. I removed the MOST and just have a nice double din unit, 2 large amps, one for the BOSE enclosure and one for all the door speakers. All new wiring. Sounds amazing.

 

and probably what i should have done from the outset. not knowing what components were failing ( the bose amp ) or the actual sub was what created the issue that prompted my attempt to "upgrade". because had both been properly working, the dbl din and associated parts should have been *mostly* plug and play. oh, but no.

so, i went back today to discuss with the 2nd audio guy who remedied what "best buy/worst installer" had munched - and he confirmed that the sub is toast and that the original bose amp ( now removed ) is questionable in terms of current or future operability. so, i'm woefully low and missing nearly all low frequency response - but at least have full apple inter-connectivity and my i-tunes stuff working. i can now cancel/disconnect incoming phone calls by voice.

so, then i drove another 1/2 mile back to the "best buy/worst installer" and original scene of the crime with my receipt from car audio #2 guy - that at least gave me sound - and i collected without any hassle my $200 reimbursement.

they paid me back in cash - provided i released them from any future or continuing liability - and yet i still felt like i won something. but hey wait. they paid me BACK.

car runs perfectly and just hit 175,500 miles. but now, if i want hear bass? i drive my vw.

 

How did he confirm the sub was toast? You should technically have two subs.

 

i have no idea. between the old bose amp and the sub and that he tested signal between them. coupled with the fact that i now have a non fibre optic signal running all speakers other than the sub enclosure that houses is it (2) 13's?

so, it's all by now rendered moot because the bass is mute. i've given up ( for now ).

if i were still in LA - instead of podunk iowa - i'd have had this all sorted *properly* by now.

but then i wouldn't have a water well supplied by an inexhaustable aquifer fed by snow melt.

so, ya makes yer choices and accept your trade-offs.

 

Hi there from across the pond. I've just stumbled on this as I'm looking to use the cab footwell sub in my car, and upgrade the stock speaker to a better sub. I want it to look as stock as possible so not looking for aftermarket alternatives (appreciate they may sound better)

Was there any success with modding the unit and what were the results like?

Many thanks