Does Protomotive tune the ECU itself, or piggy back chip? Tyson, what was your midrange like?

Have some follow up questions as well.

 

I would like to know as well. Does protomotive tune to the mods your car has?

Lou

 

Protomotive tunes to the car or mods. It is not a piggy back. My mid range power is insane.

 

My dyno results.....??

 

Ryan, something is wrong. Your car has shot it's wad by 3500 rpm's. It has a little kick from 3500 to 4200 and then goes down hill. I would look at the afr's first, but what I really question is the a/r ratio of your impeller.

 

Ryan, my guess is, if your were racing, you ran your rpm's close to redline. After each shift, your rpm's drop and you would not be in your sweet spot for power. The car does not make 500 rwhp until about 5500 rpm's.

 

Boost leak during dyno?

 

Possible. However, working with your above chart. If I was on the highway and wanted to engauge. I would place myself in a gear and a speed that would start me off at 5500 rpm's. It wouldn't be 1st, 2nd or 3rd as a shift at redline in any of these gears would render an rpm range somewhere well below 5500 rpm's for the start of the next gear. You don't want to drop below that range on a roll according to your power curve. Also, I would shift at approx. 6400 as your power tapers off at this point. This in itself is a little strange as all my dyno sheets maximize hp at redline, not 350 rpm's lower.

 

Chad, the dip on that run was the ECU pulling back because of the heat. It came up pretty fast then made a safety check then continued. We had to run it on the dyno. In this damn weather seating in the program can be difficult. It is often safer and easier to do it there.

 

Stephen,

I didn't see that dip on the stage IV on EVOMS website. The two charts are different but close. Do you have any explanations why the Upsolute would beat a Stage IV GT other than what rpm range each car engauged at? I am not bashing or taking sides, just looking for a logical answer as the result surprised me.

 

Ryan said his car is not making the boost it was when we had it on the dyno or when it was shipped. It was hitting 1.3-1.4 regularly, now it isn't making 1.2. I would be suspect of a leak. upsolute is over spinning the 16s hard and in the cold weather can get away with it, but with the drop in boost it would make it closer than one would want to admit.

The dip is not on the site because they didn't seat the program on the dyno. The dyno is like the fourth run ever with that program. We seated it on the dyno because of the weather. Snow sucks.

No bashing was taken. I am as taken by this as Ryan. There is something going on. Simply looking at our boost levels on the dyno and looking at the boost levels now. I would bet the car is way down on power if we dynoed it today.

 

A boost leak was my first guess, however Ryan didn't seem to believe his boost was down. If it was at 1.1, then it was down. I once had a similar occurance. Was coming back from a Parts Heaven swap meet. I had another older Porsche engauge on the freeway. After a few seconds I looked in my rearview and was shocked. It was behind, but not by much. The car felt fast, just was surprised the other car was so close. I took the car back to Rob and explained what happened. He checked the car and found a split in the hose that holds the DV's. If you are running 1.3 to 1.4 bar, a split here would not surprise me as I split mine three times. We finally went to a hose that was fiberglass reinforced and it has held the boost without splitting ever since.

 

We have them being finished up. David's car was also the same way. Was about .3 off from target. Ended up being the hose that feeds the boost valve and a few other little leaks here and there. When I pressurized it they showed up. Driving it you couldn't tell though. Funny how a benchmark will give a new sense to reality. I do that with mine every now and then to see how things are. I pressurized mine last month. Little things showed up, kind of like a check up if you will. You know how I am

 

Well, it appears that CJV already answered the question, but no way in hell Todd Knighton would use a piggyback computer. That guy can hack code and reverse engineer like you wouldn't even believe.

As I explained to people again and again, Protomotive custom tunes your ECU to gain the optimal results based upon what mods you have and how you want the car to behave. If you take your car to them (or just FedEx the ECU) and they do a custom tune for it, you will be one happy camper. One customer ran an 11.0 quarter mile on a 996TT with just a chip, don't ask me how he did it, but he did (I'm sure his car ain't gonna last too long driving it like that, but that's another story)!

My midrange was AWESOME... the car felt smooth, progressive, and strong all across the powerband.

I am surprised you guys are still using that flimsy plastic **** while running all that boost. Do yourselves a favor and redo the plumbing with hard pipes, will ya?

Also, I know several will disagree with me on this point, but running nominal boost at 1.3 or 1.4 bar is a bit much, don't you think? You guys will have problems down the line, just you wait and see... There has got to be a more efficient way to make power than simply running such high boost.

But that's just my opinion, what do I know?

 

Ryan/Stephen:

Do you guys have the "base" dyno run graph for the GT2? Just curious what the stock HP/TQ numbers and graph looked like.

Thanks in advance.