what kind of brake kits did u guys upgrade to ?
Originally Posted by aracerx
I'm confident that you'll agree with my opinion that production noses make it impossible to duct enough air to the brakes. That, in and of itself, presents a daunting obstacle to a "hard charger". We have devised other ways around that. On a different note-there is an interesting blurb on weight reduction and comparing the component shedding entrepreneurs out there! That helps a bit. WELL, nice e-chatting-cheers!M
Is your website formula motorsports a sponsor of this forum?? tom
Last edited by tom kerr; Feb 9, 2007 at 11:00 AM.
Originally Posted by tom kerr
14 inch rotors and GT3 Cup ducts are fine unless you are doing enduros.
What do you think about the water cooling idea as well tom?
Last edited by heavychevy; Feb 9, 2007 at 02:24 PM.
Originally Posted by ramone
My car is 03' and it has 10K miles on it. Since i got the car in Sept. I see a marked decrease in brake sensitivity and braking power. And yes, I drive like a maniac....
I'm bumping up to Stage 1/2 soon and my brakes are barely holding up as it is. Problem is I dont' want to spend too much money, or I at least want the most cost effective aproach possible....
I'm bumping up to Stage 1/2 soon and my brakes are barely holding up as it is. Problem is I dont' want to spend too much money, or I at least want the most cost effective aproach possible....
1) Get the brake fluid flushed and properly bled.
- I really like the Brembo Sport Evo500+. But any of the popular fluids will work just fine.
Motul RBF 600...ATE SuperBlue (or gold)...or if you want to "go big", Brembo LCF 600 plus.
2) Upgrade to a brake pad that better matches your “spirited†driving style, but is still "street able".
- I'd strongly recommend the Pagid Blue.
Nice initial bite. Great temperature range. And very controlable.
Pads are mostly judged on personal preference. I happen to like Pagid, but you could also consider PFC, Ferodo or any other reputable pad manufacturer.
3) Order a set of Braided Lines.
- Goodridge G-Stop.
There's other options for brake lines but Goodridge seems to be the most respected.
This will get you to a point where you can be confident that the problem is not within the system itself.
- No air or moisture in the fluid.
- Plenty of friction provided by the pad.
- No expansion or distortion from the OEM lines.
After those changes you should be guaranteed a nice solid pedal with plenty of friction to work with. If you continue to have issues after that we may want to explore ways to bring more fresh air to the system.
(YES, there are effective ducting options with the OEM fascia)
These are all relatively inexpensive options to start with. After these options have been explored, and if you still don't feel confident in the braking system, we can talk about some very effective big brake upgrades.
Originally Posted by heavychevy
Are the GT3 cup ducts as good as the aftermarket ones that you have to cut through the bumper to install?
What do you think about the water cooling idea as well tom?
What do you think about the water cooling idea as well tom?
One thing that is being overlooked in all this brake stuff is using your brakes properly.
If brakes are driven correctly the above set ups are fine for 99% of the guys on this forum.
If you really are "burning" your brakes up I would recommend relooking at your driving style and technique.
That said, I think the bumper style adds a little more air at a lot more work and expense. so it depends again if you are going to run your car in a 6 hour enduro or not.
As for the water thing, I know nothing about it except I know no racer in any of my clubs (PCA NASA PBOC) that us it nor do I know if you are allowed to use it.
And why? I mean it may be the best thing since sliced bread, but that doesnt mean ya "need" it!
All my opinions of course!!
As for Gary above (from racetek technologies?), again good advise. I like motul and even better Castrol SRF, blue and gold suck.
I like the oranges best of course only when bedded in properly.,and you really dont need the SS brake lines.....your results may vary!!!
Last edited by tom kerr; Feb 9, 2007 at 03:33 PM.
Originally Posted by Gary II
I'd probably recommend to keep it simple and do some easy maintenance first.
1) Get the brake fluid flushed and properly bled.
- I really like the Brembo Sport Evo500+. But any of the popular fluids will work just fine.
Motul RBF 600...ATE SuperBlue (or gold)...or if you want to "go big", Brembo LCF 600 plus.
2) Upgrade to a brake pad that better matches your “spirited†driving style, but is still "street able".
- I'd strongly recommend the Pagid Blue.
Nice initial bite. Great temperature range. And very controlable.
Pads are mostly judged on personal preference. I happen to like Pagid, but you could also consider PFC, Ferodo or any other reputable pad manufacturer.
3) Order a set of Braided Lines.
- Goodridge G-Stop.
There's other options for brake lines but Goodridge seems to be the most respected.
This will get you to a point where you can be confident that the problem is not within the system itself.
- No air or moisture in the fluid.
- Plenty of friction provided by the pad.
- No expansion or distortion from the OEM lines.
After those changes you should be guaranteed a nice solid pedal with plenty of friction to work with. If you continue to have issues after that we may want to explore ways to bring more fresh air to the system.
(YES, there are effective ducting options with the OEM fascia)
These are all relatively inexpensive options to start with. After these options have been explored, and if you still don't feel confident in the braking system, we can talk about some very effective big brake upgrades.
1) Get the brake fluid flushed and properly bled.
- I really like the Brembo Sport Evo500+. But any of the popular fluids will work just fine.
Motul RBF 600...ATE SuperBlue (or gold)...or if you want to "go big", Brembo LCF 600 plus.
2) Upgrade to a brake pad that better matches your “spirited†driving style, but is still "street able".
- I'd strongly recommend the Pagid Blue.
Nice initial bite. Great temperature range. And very controlable.
Pads are mostly judged on personal preference. I happen to like Pagid, but you could also consider PFC, Ferodo or any other reputable pad manufacturer.
3) Order a set of Braided Lines.
- Goodridge G-Stop.
There's other options for brake lines but Goodridge seems to be the most respected.
This will get you to a point where you can be confident that the problem is not within the system itself.
- No air or moisture in the fluid.
- Plenty of friction provided by the pad.
- No expansion or distortion from the OEM lines.
After those changes you should be guaranteed a nice solid pedal with plenty of friction to work with. If you continue to have issues after that we may want to explore ways to bring more fresh air to the system.
(YES, there are effective ducting options with the OEM fascia)
These are all relatively inexpensive options to start with. After these options have been explored, and if you still don't feel confident in the braking system, we can talk about some very effective big brake upgrades.
Cup Ducts
Cup Ducts are fine. They also are a fair bit of dinero. Biggest issue my people have with them on the street is they fall(knocked) off! Because they're so big, they tend to be a magnet for thingy's getting into their space. I don't believe they work as good on a Turbo at the track as they function on a (lighter) Cup, at the track.
Originally Posted by aracerx
Cup Ducts are fine. They also are a fair bit of dinero. Biggest issue my people have with them on the street is they fall(knocked) off! Because they're so big, they tend to be a magnet for thingy's getting into their space. I don't believe they work as good on a Turbo at the track as they function on a (lighter) Cup, at the track.
Did knock a rear one off when I ran over a cat!
Please let me know if your experience is different, thanks tom
Great point about the driving style being a huge issue Tom !!!
I usually talk about that a lot with my customers.
Before, and even AFTER, they add a BBK to their vehicle.
Brakes are a very fun upgrade, much like horsepower.
The more you have, the more you use.
The best drivers are the ones who use their brakes the least, and the smoothest.
It is a little bit of work getting proper ducting into the 996 Turbo, but not impossible. I would say it's very worth the effort.
I personally have used water in the past, and have not been very fond of it.
It's more of a "Band-Aid" than a solution. It's also very difficult to correctly dial in. (if racerx has a solid, dialed in system, he is already one step ahead).
Under extreme use, and in track like conditions, it is much more important to maintain a comfortable and consistent temperature range rather than quickly cooling the discs. As you probably know, temperature spikes and more frequent heat cycles actually wear the discs much faster.
Let's see how the fluid, pads and lines help out ramone and take it from there.
I usually talk about that a lot with my customers.
Before, and even AFTER, they add a BBK to their vehicle.
Brakes are a very fun upgrade, much like horsepower.
The more you have, the more you use.
The best drivers are the ones who use their brakes the least, and the smoothest.
It is a little bit of work getting proper ducting into the 996 Turbo, but not impossible. I would say it's very worth the effort.
I personally have used water in the past, and have not been very fond of it.
It's more of a "Band-Aid" than a solution. It's also very difficult to correctly dial in. (if racerx has a solid, dialed in system, he is already one step ahead).
Under extreme use, and in track like conditions, it is much more important to maintain a comfortable and consistent temperature range rather than quickly cooling the discs. As you probably know, temperature spikes and more frequent heat cycles actually wear the discs much faster.
Let's see how the fluid, pads and lines help out ramone and take it from there.
Originally Posted by tom kerr
The GT3 ducts are all that anyone would need unless you are running hard at the track for more than 45 minute sessions.
One thing that is being overlooked in all this brake stuff is using your brakes properly.
If brakes are driven correctly the above set ups are fine for 99% of the guys on this forum.
If you really are "burning" your brakes up I would recommend relooking at your driving style and technique.
That said, I think the bumper style adds a little more air at a lot more work and expense. so it depends again if you are going to run your car in a 6 hour enduro or not.
As for the water thing, I know nothing about it except I know no racer in any of my clubs (PCA NASA PBOC) that us it nor do I know if you are allowed to use it.
And why? I mean it may be the best thing since sliced bread, but that doesnt mean ya "need" it!
All my opinions of course!!
As for Gary above, again good advise. I like motul and even better Castrol SRF, blue and gold suck.
I like the oranges best of course only when bedded in properly.,and you really dont need the SS brake lines.....your results may vary!!!
One thing that is being overlooked in all this brake stuff is using your brakes properly.
If brakes are driven correctly the above set ups are fine for 99% of the guys on this forum.
If you really are "burning" your brakes up I would recommend relooking at your driving style and technique.
That said, I think the bumper style adds a little more air at a lot more work and expense. so it depends again if you are going to run your car in a 6 hour enduro or not.
As for the water thing, I know nothing about it except I know no racer in any of my clubs (PCA NASA PBOC) that us it nor do I know if you are allowed to use it.
And why? I mean it may be the best thing since sliced bread, but that doesnt mean ya "need" it!
All my opinions of course!!
As for Gary above, again good advise. I like motul and even better Castrol SRF, blue and gold suck.
I like the oranges best of course only when bedded in properly.,and you really dont need the SS brake lines.....your results may vary!!!
Originally Posted by tom kerr
Sorry, Cup ducts are a couple hundred bucks installed if you think that is a fair bit of dinero you are in the wrong forum. I recommend them because I USE them and DRIVE and OWN a TT. and they work and are cheap.
Did knock a rear one off when I ran over a cat!
Please let me know if your experience is different, thanks tom
Did knock a rear one off when I ran over a cat!
Please let me know if your experience is different, thanks tom
I would like to know more about the water cooled solution in detail but not going that route just yet.I guess I'm a little anxious because I was driving around in my 2000 M5 and ROASTED the brakes. Of course mine was 4200 lbs 4420 with me in it and tiny little brakes with no cooling. I just want to make sure I'm safe and get the most time on the track without spending the most time in the shop. I wont be doing anything more than 30 minute sessions but I'm a very aggressive driver and that may not be good for the ole rotors and calipers.
sadly and typically
The agenda does not lay with myself. I've not plied ANY attempt at marketing anything. Either you become informed or stay buried in the sand. NO cup ducts will be capable of cooling a standard 996 Turbo under real track conditions, it's simply a fact. AND that you POO POO the cost of cup ducts along with insinuating that I don't belong discussing their costs! (what an ***). After you lose a few the costs begin to take a toll. Neither will a select group of pads markedly change the heat induced characteristics of brake fade. Why come at me anyway? I am informative and factual. I think it's obvious who has the agenda here, especially since you asked about "sponsorship" on the site. Whew, Dude, go ahead and sell all the calipers and rotors you can! Thankfully, I don't need to:-) M BTW-you're not very polite, upbringing...can't change genetics. Guess you must be real fast-at web mouthing.
Last edited by aracerx; Feb 10, 2007 at 01:52 PM.
Originally Posted by aracerx
NO cup ducts will be capable of cooling a standard 996 Turbo under real track conditions, it's simply a fact.
Thanks.







