Oil Pressure Problem
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,787
From: Edmonton, Alberta
Rep Power: 209
Same here. Had it replaced a couple of years ago.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,256
From: New Braunfels, TX
Rep Power: 83
My oil pressure gage is also acting strange. It is either all the way up or flat line down but no idiot light ever comes on. Usually when rpm rise the gage goes all the way up. When driving at a constant speed it is all the way down.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 611
From: Portland OR
Rep Power: 52
Bringing this thread back to life as I have a similar problem, maybe one of you can chime in.
Driving home tonight I noticed my oil pressure gauge had dropped all the way to nothing. Its been acting sporadically for the last couple of weeks, sometimes sitting at just over 1 bar at idle, sometimes sticking at just over 2 bar at idle and sometimes ever as high as 3 bar. Tonight was a bit different though, it dropped all the way to zero and did not respond to increased engine RPM at all. No other indicator lights came on, everything else ran fine.
When I got back to my garage, I shut it down, started it back up, and it started acting sporadically jumping all over the place, at idle. Too dark to check for a lose connector right now, I plan on checking that tomorrow. Does this sound like its the gauge, sender unit, something else, or is it not possible to tell from this information?
Can someone who has replaced any of these tell me approximately how much the parts and labor are, I don't want to drive around without this instrument working properly.
Thanks for the help guys!
Justin
Driving home tonight I noticed my oil pressure gauge had dropped all the way to nothing. Its been acting sporadically for the last couple of weeks, sometimes sitting at just over 1 bar at idle, sometimes sticking at just over 2 bar at idle and sometimes ever as high as 3 bar. Tonight was a bit different though, it dropped all the way to zero and did not respond to increased engine RPM at all. No other indicator lights came on, everything else ran fine.
When I got back to my garage, I shut it down, started it back up, and it started acting sporadically jumping all over the place, at idle. Too dark to check for a lose connector right now, I plan on checking that tomorrow. Does this sound like its the gauge, sender unit, something else, or is it not possible to tell from this information?
Can someone who has replaced any of these tell me approximately how much the parts and labor are, I don't want to drive around without this instrument working properly.
Thanks for the help guys!
Justin
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 712
From: Akron, OH
Rep Power: 58
Oil pressure sender seems most likely, and it fixed the exact problem you are describing.
I just did this last month, cant for the life of me remember how much the part was. Call suncoast. Was less then $100 most likely. Was a pretty quick DIY.
I just did this last month, cant for the life of me remember how much the part was. Call suncoast. Was less then $100 most likely. Was a pretty quick DIY.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 611
From: Portland OR
Rep Power: 52
tvurt, I just went out to verify the location of my sender (following the link provided by wross) and noticed a couple of things. First off, the sender appears to be more in the middle top of the engine for the TT. Second, one of the wires on top had come lose on mine, probably causing the zero pressure reading while driving, and somehow found itself back resting on top of the contact when I got back in my garage last night. Did you do this replacement yourself? The sender appears to be behind a couple other pieces of hardware, I'm wondering how I should go about disassembling those parts to get to the sender.
Thanks again guys!
Thanks again guys!
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 462
From: Denver, CO
Rep Power: 46
OK,
1st thing to do is to check the two wires that are supposed to be connected to the top of the sender unit. This unit is locared directly behind the oil filter housing and is about half the size of a soda can with two connectors on the top of it tilted to the left side of the car.
These two wires can come unconnected very easily and if that happens you will see an oil "failure indicator" message on your dash computer and you're oil gauge will stop functioning as well.
Now to fix the problem - it's a PITA to reconnect these wires if you don't have the right tools.
The 1st thing you have to do is:
Go to this link: http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/pages.php?pID=68
And follow steps 1 - 3 to get the hoses off to get access to the sender unit. You only need to remove the 1st two hoses listed in these instructions for access to the sender unit. Do not remove the F-hose that is connected to the Diverter Valves.
Next you'll need either some really long forcepts or a wire grabber such as the one listed here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-+Grabber.html
You'll need to grab the disconnected wire(s), position them correctly in some wire grabbers or forecepts, or super long needle nose pliers, and reconnect them to the top of the sender unit on their connectors.
The trick here is first getting the wire end positioned correctly over the top of the comnnector, and second, getting enough downward pressure to push the wire back onto it's connector on the top of the sender unit.
I had to do this recently and the connector on the far left was a real pain because you can really only see it with one eye and that will throw off your depth perception when positioning the wire. My diverter valve was also in the way as mine are aftermarket and slightly larger than the stockers.
This really is the simplest of concepts (put the wire on the connector), but because of the depth of the sender unit into the engine, limited space to work, and the limited access to the sender unit and wires, this fix took me a few hrs by muself just playing with the wires with my wire grabber and pushing it onto the connector with a long and thin flat head screwdriver.
If anyone else knows of easier ways please let me know.
1st thing to do is to check the two wires that are supposed to be connected to the top of the sender unit. This unit is locared directly behind the oil filter housing and is about half the size of a soda can with two connectors on the top of it tilted to the left side of the car.
These two wires can come unconnected very easily and if that happens you will see an oil "failure indicator" message on your dash computer and you're oil gauge will stop functioning as well.
Now to fix the problem - it's a PITA to reconnect these wires if you don't have the right tools.
The 1st thing you have to do is:
Go to this link: http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/pages.php?pID=68
And follow steps 1 - 3 to get the hoses off to get access to the sender unit. You only need to remove the 1st two hoses listed in these instructions for access to the sender unit. Do not remove the F-hose that is connected to the Diverter Valves.
Next you'll need either some really long forcepts or a wire grabber such as the one listed here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-+Grabber.html
You'll need to grab the disconnected wire(s), position them correctly in some wire grabbers or forecepts, or super long needle nose pliers, and reconnect them to the top of the sender unit on their connectors.
The trick here is first getting the wire end positioned correctly over the top of the comnnector, and second, getting enough downward pressure to push the wire back onto it's connector on the top of the sender unit.
I had to do this recently and the connector on the far left was a real pain because you can really only see it with one eye and that will throw off your depth perception when positioning the wire. My diverter valve was also in the way as mine are aftermarket and slightly larger than the stockers.
This really is the simplest of concepts (put the wire on the connector), but because of the depth of the sender unit into the engine, limited space to work, and the limited access to the sender unit and wires, this fix took me a few hrs by muself just playing with the wires with my wire grabber and pushing it onto the connector with a long and thin flat head screwdriver.
If anyone else knows of easier ways please let me know.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 712
From: Akron, OH
Rep Power: 58
kwei
PM and I can send you the pages from the factory repair manual. Don't think i am allowed to post them here.
It makes it look a bit easier then it actually is tho
Tom
PM and I can send you the pages from the factory repair manual. Don't think i am allowed to post them here.
It makes it look a bit easier then it actually is tho
Tom
Last edited by tvurt; Jun 17, 2009 at 03:48 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 611
From: Portland OR
Rep Power: 52
Thanks Colorado, I actually was able to verify that a wire was detached, and was able to get in there and put it back in place by hand. I guess I was lucky in that it didnt take more than 5 minutes to do, but I can see how it could be so with such limited space. That being said, pressure does not seem to be showing correctly still. I'm going to order a replacement part tomorrow and see if I can follow instructions well enough to make it a DIY. Wish me luck!
Justin
edited because I can't spell: )
Justin
edited because I can't spell: )
OK,
1st thing to do is to check the two wires that are supposed to be connected to the top of the sender unit. This unit is locared directly behind the oil filter housing and is about half the size of a soda can with two connectors on the top of it tilted to the left side of the car.
These two wires can come unconnected very easily and if that happens you will see an oil "failure indicator" message on your dash computer and you're oil gauge will stop functioning as well.
Now to fix the problem - it's a PITA to reconnect these wires if you don't have the right tools.
The 1st thing you have to do is:
Go to this link: http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/pages.php?pID=68
And follow steps 1 - 3 to get the hoses off to get access to the sender unit. You only need to remove the 1st two hoses listed in these instructions for access to the sender unit. Do not remove the F-hose that is connected to the Diverter Valves.
Next you'll need either some really long forcepts or a wire grabber such as the one listed here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-+Grabber.html
You'll need to grab the disconnected wire(s), position them correctly in some wire grabbers or forecepts, or super long needle nose pliers, and reconnect them to the top of the sender unit on their connectors.
The trick here is first getting the wire end positioned correctly over the top of the comnnector, and second, getting enough downward pressure to push the wire back onto it's connector on the top of the sender unit.
I had to do this recently and the connector on the far left was a real pain because you can really only see it with one eye and that will throw off your depth perception when positioning the wire. My diverter valve was also in the way as mine are aftermarket and slightly larger than the stockers.
This really is the simplest of concepts (put the wire on the connector), but because of the depth of the sender unit into the engine, limited space to work, and the limited access to the sender unit and wires, this fix took me a few hrs by muself just playing with the wires with my wire grabber and pushing it onto the connector with a long and thin flat head screwdriver.
If anyone else knows of easier ways please let me know.
1st thing to do is to check the two wires that are supposed to be connected to the top of the sender unit. This unit is locared directly behind the oil filter housing and is about half the size of a soda can with two connectors on the top of it tilted to the left side of the car.
These two wires can come unconnected very easily and if that happens you will see an oil "failure indicator" message on your dash computer and you're oil gauge will stop functioning as well.
Now to fix the problem - it's a PITA to reconnect these wires if you don't have the right tools.
The 1st thing you have to do is:
Go to this link: http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/pages.php?pID=68
And follow steps 1 - 3 to get the hoses off to get access to the sender unit. You only need to remove the 1st two hoses listed in these instructions for access to the sender unit. Do not remove the F-hose that is connected to the Diverter Valves.
Next you'll need either some really long forcepts or a wire grabber such as the one listed here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-+Grabber.html
You'll need to grab the disconnected wire(s), position them correctly in some wire grabbers or forecepts, or super long needle nose pliers, and reconnect them to the top of the sender unit on their connectors.
The trick here is first getting the wire end positioned correctly over the top of the comnnector, and second, getting enough downward pressure to push the wire back onto it's connector on the top of the sender unit.
I had to do this recently and the connector on the far left was a real pain because you can really only see it with one eye and that will throw off your depth perception when positioning the wire. My diverter valve was also in the way as mine are aftermarket and slightly larger than the stockers.
This really is the simplest of concepts (put the wire on the connector), but because of the depth of the sender unit into the engine, limited space to work, and the limited access to the sender unit and wires, this fix took me a few hrs by muself just playing with the wires with my wire grabber and pushing it onto the connector with a long and thin flat head screwdriver.
If anyone else knows of easier ways please let me know.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eclip5e
Automobiles For Sale
6
Jul 29, 2019 11:13 AM
LiquidElephant
Automobiles For Sale
3
Aug 27, 2015 06:17 PM
