I searched and found nothing on this, which makes me think that it's easy.

Is there an existing FAQ for doing this? Doesn't look terribly difficult, but some tips would be helpful. Do I have to remove the rear bumper? Is there anything in particular to keep in mind regarding the clips or the fittment to the turbos (I assume that the ends without the metal coupling is for connection to the turbos)? Would I be well advised to go with T-Bolt clamps or similar for the turbo connections (what's on there now, worm clamps?)?

OT, but while I have it apart would extrude-honing the stock Y-pipe connecting to the throttle body yield any benefits?

Any advice or pics of install would be much appreciated - thanks!

 

the hoses come with one end clamped with a low clearence oetiker styled crimped hose. the ic hose on the passenger side on mine was not aligned correctly so the hose would not align up in correct orientation to the y pipe. t clamps would be nice but there is not enough clearence through the inner fender wall to accomodate a larger clamp with worm gears, unless you open up the hole in the fender walls.

I removed the bumper and ic bracket and installed the hose into the ic to make sure the clip in ends are secure, few 6speeders have had this end come loose.

 

rear bumper needs to come off. be careful many have been left by the side of the road because of these things "poppin" off.
also make sure your rear wheel doesnt rub

 

Thanks for the tips, guess I'll see this afternoon when I get everything off.

Any thoughts about getting the Y-Pipe extrude-honed?

Thanks

 

I wouldn't waste the money. If you want a siginificantly better Y-pipe, call Speed Gallery.

BTW, those of you with EVO intercoolers...do you remove the fitted aluminum (oetiker) couplers and use hose clamps, or does EVO make two versions of the silicone hoses?

 

Ok, now I'm confused if I got the right ones. On the ends of mine going to the ICs, I already do not have the fitted aluminum (oetiker) couplers? Guess I'll just clamp them on?

 

Those are correct for stock intercoolers. I was asking about EVO intercoolers. You are good to go.

 

me + ....I have stage 4 with OEM IC...are an set of EVO intercoolers significat improvement?

Thanks!

 

So it went pretty well overall, but they are a little fidgety to get in place correctly. To anyone doing this yourself, make sure to remember to reuse the green O-rings from the stock IC pipes and lube them up with a little grease before putting back in. Also do yourself a favor and purchase some better worm-gear clamps for the turbo connections. I snapped one of the weak old ones while torquing things back down.

My passenger side hose to the turbo (the shorter one, or drivers side for those in the US) was about 2 inches too short, so I stuck the stock one back in there for now. And Tom, no sign of wheel rub, but the sharp lower screws for the wheel well molding are extremely close. I might just leave them out.

Thanks for the tips all, time for me to get some shut-eye and then on to the AP BOV tomorrow (with pics)!

 

glad everything went well. question, why did you have to reuse the stock o-rings? evo should have supplied you with the double sealed square type o-rings which should seal better than the stock round type.

 

They are not EVO hoses. Need to scare up a set of those upgraded O-rings, because the stock ones are beat. I can imagine that these may have the potential to leak at the connections...

 

Well, put on the AP adjustable BOV last night and buttoned everything up. What a ***** this was to install!! Seriously, I've never had so much difficulty with something so simple. Every one of those "Ford-style" hose clamps was facing towards the front of the car, and I couldn't get pliers in there to squeeze any of them off except for the front stock BOV. Not to mention that there is absolutely no room to move around in there and my hands are wrecked. Anyway, I ended up taking the whole unit off from the intake and twisting and pushing everything around until I could yank them off. 5 hours later (yeah I know, you have no idea...), and it was on - you can see the open vent in the pic below right above the jumper box. I plugged up all of the other open ports, and took it out for a spin today. First impression is that it holds boost better and then hits HARD when you shift, of course with that great WOOSH noise that I love. I need to adjust it to open a little softer as it doesn't open now when I'm at low boost levels (< 0.4 bar), only after I really get on it. No sign of the BOV opening at part-throttle which is sometimes a problem associated with venting these to atmosphere, and best of all NO CEL.

Don't know any performance gain or not from this as I put on IC hoses at the same time. Boost seems to build a bit faster, and at first there was a slight stumble at mid-rpms but I think the car adapted a bit (disconnected battery) and now the drivability is totally fine for me.

Overall I'm very happy, and once I get it adjusted correctly I think it will be perfect. Thanks to Dan at Vivid Racing for getting these out to me so quickly!

 

nice, with all that yankin, tugg'n, and twistin' you didn't even bother to change out the f-pipe? looks like you maybe going back in again later to change the stock ones when they bust a seam. doing the dv's is a finess job, patience is the order of the day. I used a very long needle nose plier w/ and angle which worked well, the trick is to remove the f- hose and the front dv as one unit due to the clamps facing towards the front. looks like you can ues a nice detail after that job.

 

Thanks Oak. Nice detail? I just cleaned the whole engine compartment, where's the love - LOL!

Trashed my needle-nose pliers in the process. Man they were ALL turned around - f'ing Porsche engineers. The "Euro-spec" clamps are a f*&%er to take off

About the F-hose. I decided not to change it out. When I have some more patience stored up (I put back on some nice high quality worm-gear type clamps so the re-removal will be a breeze), I'm going to toss the whole stock unit - f-hose as well as the part that connects back into the intake which is now useless. I'm going to plug the hole in the intake with a rubber expander plug (which apparently no one in the UK has heard of, but available for like a buck at any Home Depot), and then toss the f-hose in favor of a short silicone coupler. Reposition a few vaccum lines and it will be sweet. This will position the BOV perfectly and give me enough room with all of that junk gone where I can actually adjust it. Currently it's wedged in there so tight that I won't be able to adjust without disassembly (the **** is back behind the oil filter).

 

If you use the intercoolers you will simply pull the billet end. There are not two style of hoses.