EVO ShiftLink
I would put in the shift link in first while the oem shift lever is still in place and you can still use the locking bridge. Then there is no hit or miss adjustment needed when you install the B&M.
Originally posted by rockitman
I wunder if it's just a matter of matching up the length of the stock one you pull out with the billet one??? Makes sense, doesn't it???
I wunder if it's just a matter of matching up the length of the stock one you pull out with the billet one??? Makes sense, doesn't it???
Perhaps I was very lucky, because it all went back together correctly the first time. The N position is right in middle of the 3-4 gate and I have had no problems getting into 1 or R.
Dock:
We ended up adjusting the shift line cable to compensate for the Evo Shiftlink reduction if I remember correctly. Once you have the console off, it is not a big deal, just a bit time consuming. I have yet to figure out why Evo used such small lock screws on the end of their piece (you can barely see them). Good luck with the install.
We ended up adjusting the shift line cable to compensate for the Evo Shiftlink reduction if I remember correctly. Once you have the console off, it is not a big deal, just a bit time consuming. I have yet to figure out why Evo used such small lock screws on the end of their piece (you can barely see them). Good luck with the install.
Does the green plastic plate at the bottom of the shift console have to be remain?
I broke one of the tabs taking it off.
Seems there would be more clearance for the ShiftLink with it out.
I broke one of the tabs taking it off.
Seems there would be more clearance for the ShiftLink with it out.
I had the B&M SSK and the Evo shiftlink sitting in my garage since Christmas and just barely installed it the other day. It took me and a buddy a couple of hours to install and was easier than we thought. The Evo shiftlink didn't come with any instructions so I was worried it wouldn't go in right, we just macthed up the length like Sloth did to the old plastic one. As for cutting the stock bushings out, someones suggestion for using dykes worked great. Kind of disconcerting to be cutting into and destroying the old bushing though.
Can't tell you how much I like the new shifter better than the old one. It does take more effort but much more postive and shorter shifts.
Can't tell you how much I like the new shifter better than the old one. It does take more effort but much more postive and shorter shifts.
Porsche's Short Shifter installation instructions direct the Tech. to use a chisel to tap off the bushing tabs. That's what I used and I had both bushings out within 60 seconds. The only way to go IMHO.
Don't forget to engage reverse as part of your adjustment testing(Make sure it's actually engaged). Mine did not really engage on initial setup after initial manual testing. I had to go back to adjust the cable position after I realized I could not back my car out of the garage. Works great now and I'm glad I did the whole mod. The EVO linkage combined with the B&M unit creates a very positive and solid feel.
If you are using the stock shifter and just installing the billet linkage piece...How do you take the stock plastic one off??? Do the cables pop or pull out of the bushing or do you cut it out??? Confused...
A more specific thread regarding the shiftlink install issues I started on renntech, fyi. Thank you Tool Pants!!!!
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...t=0&#entry7511
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...t=0&#entry7511




