AP Droplinks, clunking and how to adjust
AP Droplinks, clunking and how to adjust
I wouldn't buy these. The nuts around the main body loosen up all the time and my car sounds like the front end is going to fall off. I have tried red loctite and still they loosen up. Before I buy another brand, I tightened the hell out of them today. Even the nuts that hold the droplink to the GT3 sway and the shockbody were loose. What a bad design. So far no clunking driving around today. I'm sure they'll loosen up shortly.
I know you use adjustable droplinks to dial out any preload. With the adjustment nuts loosening up so often, I have no idea what the length of the droplink is suppose to be. How do you tell when there is no preload on the GT3 swaybar. Without going back to my local indy, how can I adjust the droplinks in my garage. I know you need to compress the suspension so you have to adjust them under load sitting on the wheels. Thats why the car is put up on an alignment rack to intall and adjust the GT3 sway and droplinks. When I turn the wheel, I have access to the droplinks to adjust them. I'm just not sure how long to make them. Thanks.
I know you use adjustable droplinks to dial out any preload. With the adjustment nuts loosening up so often, I have no idea what the length of the droplink is suppose to be. How do you tell when there is no preload on the GT3 swaybar. Without going back to my local indy, how can I adjust the droplinks in my garage. I know you need to compress the suspension so you have to adjust them under load sitting on the wheels. Thats why the car is put up on an alignment rack to intall and adjust the GT3 sway and droplinks. When I turn the wheel, I have access to the droplinks to adjust them. I'm just not sure how long to make them. Thanks.
Did you talk to Dan at VividRacing about this? Dan is a good guy- He should be able to help you out with this.
Most adjustable drop links tend to loosen up over time, at least that is what I've read many times in the forums.
Most adjustable drop links tend to loosen up over time, at least that is what I've read many times in the forums.
Not knocking AP but www.gocpt.com have not given me any problems in the 6 months and 15 track days I've had them on.
TRG is the way to go.... expensive, but Ive never had any loosening issues. Ive been tracking with it for 3 years now... no issues.
To make sure there is no pre-load. Put the car on a ramp. Tighten one of the DL and adjust the other DL so that it goes in the sway bar without tensioning the bar (neutral). Once adjusted... tighten everything down.
To make sure there is no pre-load. Put the car on a ramp. Tighten one of the DL and adjust the other DL so that it goes in the sway bar without tensioning the bar (neutral). Once adjusted... tighten everything down.
I'm tracking down a set of front TRG droplinks, almost new for 200 bucks. No clunking yet, but I've only driven 20 miles.
So if I were to take the large bolt out from each side that goes through the droplink into the GT3 sway, then adjust the length of the droplink for the bolt just slides through heim (sp) joint on the droplink and easily through the hole in the sway then tighten everything up and repeat on the opposite side. This makes sense since the connection is neutral until the car starts to roll (sway).
Thanks a lot.
So if I were to take the large bolt out from each side that goes through the droplink into the GT3 sway, then adjust the length of the droplink for the bolt just slides through heim (sp) joint on the droplink and easily through the hole in the sway then tighten everything up and repeat on the opposite side. This makes sense since the connection is neutral until the car starts to roll (sway).
Thanks a lot.
you got it... also, get some white out (for paper) and mark the bolts so that if it does come loose you will know which one has loosened cause youve marked the original tightened position.
I'm tracking down a set of front TRG droplinks, almost new for 200 bucks. No clunking yet, but I've only driven 20 miles.
So if I were to take the large bolt out from each side that goes through the droplink into the GT3 sway, then adjust the length of the droplink for the bolt just slides through heim (sp) joint on the droplink and easily through the hole in the sway then tighten everything up and repeat on the opposite side. This makes sense since the connection is neutral until the car starts to roll (sway).
Thanks a lot.
So if I were to take the large bolt out from each side that goes through the droplink into the GT3 sway, then adjust the length of the droplink for the bolt just slides through heim (sp) joint on the droplink and easily through the hole in the sway then tighten everything up and repeat on the opposite side. This makes sense since the connection is neutral until the car starts to roll (sway).
Thanks a lot.





