I know this topic has been back and forth a few times (I did search first) but I could not find a clear answer regarding if it is possible to de-amber the turn signal lenses in the front litronic headlights of my 2001 996 C2. I popped out the headlights last weekend and removed the turn signal bulb. Man, there just is not a lot of room to work in there! I want to be sure this is possible before I trash 2500 headlights! I appreciate your help!

 

To get rid of the orange you need an "amberectomy". Search RennList or RennTech for that phrase for lots of info. Here's a DIY write-up...
http://hverheyen.vssi-eda.com/box_pi...hts/index.html

 

Thank you!

 

Some good info here as well.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...berectomy.html

 

Thank you!

 

I did my amberectomy a couple of weeks ago. Once I figured out what was what in there it went pretty fast - the first one took abut 2 hours (including about a 30 minute frustration timeout), but the second one was done in about 15 minutes... Basically you take a soldering iron and perforate the amber lens until it starts to fall apart, then pull out chunks of the lens with needle-nose pliers... after awhile you can use the soldering iron like a hot knife to connect the holes that you just made... Make sure you protect the hole with lots of foil - you don't want to melt the edge or the lamp won't seat right when you re-install it... I put a couple of big beach towels down to protect the lens from scratches while I was working and to use as a cushion for a flashlight... (this was my adjustment to the process... I flashed a flashlight back through the headlight to keep track of where I was...) It really isn't very hard - I spend more time worrying about it than actually doing it, but you know that's the way I am from the speaker thread you started.

Good luck!

Rudy

 

Oh, and don't forget to get the silverized amber turn signal bulbs - I got mine at autolumination.com - $4 each.

Rudy

 

The Amberdectomy was a big success! The first headlight took me about 1/2 hour and I buggered up the light socket seat a bit. The second light only took about 10 minutes.

I opted to swap out the "yellow" city lights for high output LED lights while I had the units removed. I also did the hack to make the side marker lights flash with the turn signals. Here's the link to the instructions. http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album103 if you're interested.

This weekend, hard wiring my Escort 9500 ix radar detector.

Next weekend, I plan on doing the convertible top hack so that the top can be lowered and raised while the car is moving. Here's the link to that. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...owtopic=38&hl=

 

I thought a little bit about going with the HO LEDs, but had not seen what they look like (maybe you can post a shot of them), so I went with the straight bulb replacement. Interesting idea synching the sidemarkers with the turn signal, I might have to try that one...

Checked up on my car today - they have to build a new bracket to pull the bumperettes in tighter to the body so that they'll fit flush with the new turbo-look rear bumper... the side rockers are done, ready to be shot, as is the front turbo-look bumper cover... they should wrap up the rear this week and hopefully prime on Friday to let everything set for the color shot on Monday, then the clearcoat on Wednesday... Good chance I'll get my car by next weekend... Then I can start with the speakers - the Kappas came in today (one pair for the dash and the other for the rear) and UPS tells me that the Tang subwoofers are on the way...

Congrats on the amberectomy - I'll be hitting you up for tips on removing the door panel soon!

Rudy

 

You are a man with a plan! I like that! The door panels are easy. Here is a great link with pictures. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7066

And here's my write up...

First, remove the plastic airbag plug. Use a small firm plastic prying device as not to scratch the decorative plug. Remove the Allen head bolt behind the plug.

Next, gently pry up the plastic trim on the top of the door handle pull (the part you grab when you pull the door shut). It just snaps in with clips. Once that if off, remove the 2 large screws that hold the door panel on.

Next, pull the interior door open lever and remove the Phillips head screw behind the lever.

Next, lift the door storage lid and remove the plastic Phillips head screw and then the plastic crew plug that holds the door panel to the door.

Then remove the plastic trim "triangle" located at the top of the door closest to the front door pillar. Gently pull the bottom of the trim out then slide it up. Be very careful with this as it's easy to break the little plastic tang at the top.

Next, pry out the door light located that the bottom rear of the door and pull the bulb out of the housing. Push the wires with the bulb back through the hole in the door.

Now grab the bottom of the door panel trim at the bottom and smartly pull towards you. There are 6 or 7 of theses friction plugs that hold the rest of the door panel on. Once you get a few loose, work your way around the rest of the door trim edges until they are all free.

Once they are all free, grab the door panel and lift up to release it from the top.

Once released, unplug the 2 wire plug connectors on the inside and you should be able to set the door trim panel on the floor next to the door.

Have patience and try to have fun with it as it can be frustrating.

 

Bob,

Hah - it's your plan... and I like it! Anyway, in the absence of my plan, your's seemed to do everything I wanted to do.

Thanks for the tips on the door panels. Anything interesting (read: tricky) about the Kappas in either the dash or the rear panel (aside from getting the blank speaker grills)? Did you tape or velcro down the crossovers (or whatever that is dangling down from the speakers)?

Thanks again!
Rudy

 

When you swap the subs, you will find a piece of white fibrous insulation behind the old subs. I reused this piece under the kappas on the dash installation so the crossover wouldn't rattle around.

I used JB weld to secure the kappas to the newly fabricated speaker grills.

You may have to Dremel down the speaker tabs after the glue drys to make clearance.

You are going to have to snip off the speaker connector plugs, strip off a little insulation and prep the wire with a little solder so that when you tighten the screws on the crossover, it doesn't crush the wire. Pay attention to which one is the (+) and which one is the minus. It matters! Look at the rear of the spreaker before you unplug it to see which color wire is the positive and take not of it.

When you are done, you'll have to mess around in your radios DSP settings to get the sound quality you desire. Definately have to turn the trebile down asthe kappas are very clean on the high end.

I can't wait to hear mine on the road. My car is in storage now as I live in the North.

 

Not so easy....

 

Sounds like a good weekend project. Now where's that soldering iron.

 

could this be done with a 99 996 that came without litronics?