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Thoughts on upgraded clutch/lwfw combo?

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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Porsche Tech
I'm sure you've done your research but make sure you use a clutch assy that utilizes a sprung hub. You can run a solid hub unit but you'll get a lot of gear box backlash noise on acell/decel (not just chatter at idle) and potentially, over time, more excessive ring/pinion wear over a sprung hub or dual-mass set up.

I'm going to go with the Stage 2+ setup. Looks like it has the "sprung hub" so I should be good.

http://www.specclutch.com/products
 
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
The LWFW will work fine on a 996 with an SC. However, a LWFW may also cause a blancing problem for the crankshaft, which is a risk on all engines that come with a DMF. Whether this risk materializes into damage to the engine has yet to be determined. Personally, if I am going to drive a car on the street that rattles, I might as well drive a 55 Chevy which is expected to have rattles.
Or a vette

I ride a ducati with an open clutch cover. Rattling is just a part of my life so the 996 might as well rattle too
 
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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hey Andrew, not sure where to get one... you'll have to do some research... Paul @ protomotive/protosport was the one who recommended it and installed it
 
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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Deputy Dog, I don't know if anybody warned you yet about needing a clutch pedal stop with the set up that you will be using. I found out after having my car towed back to the shop that did the installation for me. I replaced my clutch fork with the correct upgraded 997 part (from Sunset). After driving my car for about 10 miles, I discovered a horrible metal on metal sound, when I depressed the clutch fully. I could feel it through the clutch pedal. My friend that did the installation discovered that the pedal was throwing the clutch too far, causing the spring centered hub to come into contact with the splines on the pressure plate. The solution was to fabricate a cutch pedal stop. I discovered this is a common problem, due to the reduced clearance of the spring centered hub on the SPEC clutch.
If you want directions on how I made my pedal stop, please let me know. I sent a vendor here or on Rennlist an extra clutch pedal, so they could fabricate a pedal stop and market it....I never heard back from them.
 

Last edited by mfletch; Oct 19, 2009 at 10:33 AM.
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mfletch
Deputy Dog, I don't know if anybody warned you yet about needing a clutch pedal stop with the set up that you will be using. I found out after having my car towed back to the shop that did the installation for me. I replaced my clutch fork with the correct upgraded 997 part (from Sunset). After driving my car for about 10 miles, I discovered a horrible metal on metal sound, when I depressed the clutch fully. I could feel it through the clutch pedal. My friend that did the installation discovered that the pedal was throwing the clutch too far, causing the spring centered hub to come into contact with the flywheel. The solution was to fabricate a cutch pedal stop. I discovered this is a common problem, due to the reduced clearance of the spring centered hub on the SPEC clutch.
If you want directions on how I made my pedal stop, please let me know. I sent a vendor here or on Rennlist an extra clutch pedal, so they could fabricate a pedal stop and market it....I never heard back from them.
Your pressure plate or release bearing or lever was installed incorrectly or you installed the wrong parts. The proper clutch setup will not cause the PP to touch the flywheel, whether it is a DMF or a LWFW.
 
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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RSS now makes a nice clutch pedal stop for our cars...https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-stop-rss.html

SSI performance is the company that offered to fabricate one for me.
 

Last edited by mfletch; Oct 19, 2009 at 10:32 AM.
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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1999porsche 911, I misstated the problem I was having with my clutch...the spring centered hub was contacting the splines on the pressure plate, not the flywheel.
When I posted information about my LWFW problem over on Rennlist, "Mother" directed me to the following instruction on the JB Racing website..."(3) All Racing clutch kits require the installation of a clutch pedal stop to prevent clutch damage due to overtravel."
 

Last edited by mfletch; Oct 21, 2009 at 04:54 PM.
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mfletch
1999porsche 911, I mistated the problem I was having with my clutch...the spring centered hub was contacting the splines on the pressure plate, not the flywheel.
When I posted information about my LWFW problem over on Rennlist, "Mother" directed me to the following instruction on the JB Racing website..."(3) All Racing clutch kits require the installation of a clutch pedal stop to prevent clutch damage due to overtravel."
What kind of Mickey Mouse kits are they selling? Any creditable clutch upgrade would not require you to jury rig a pedal stop. Sounds to me like they simply wanted to sell a "race kit" and took some unmatched parts and through them together.

There are any number of professional ways to control how far the pressure plate fingers are compressed and that should have been addressed and provided for by the seller.
 
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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AASCO builds our lwfw package to spec. They are what we recommend.
 
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 03:51 AM
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I have been looking into a LWFW but was also worried about the balancing issue, so was directed towards the 'Rattler' - http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Tech...ttler_tech.asp

May be worth looking into for anyone who is concerned, I believe they make them for a '6' instead of the V8.
 
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mfletch
1999porsche 911, I mistated the problem I was having with my clutch...the spring centered hub was contacting the splines on the pressure plate, not the flywheel."
My goodness man just pull it apart and put the disc in right with the sprung hub portion towards the flywheel. I know I made this also, you don't need any "racing" stuff to do this properly and now your error is going to be compounded, no body else I have talked to has had to install anything to stop the traved of any component.

Tony
 
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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Tony, here is a picture of the SPEC stage 2+ clutch. The spring centered hub protrudes in both directions. I did not do the installation. The mechanic that did, installed it correctly.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mfletch
Tony, here is a picture of the SPEC stage 2+ clutch. The spring centered hub protrudes in both directions. I did not do the installation. The mechanic that did, installed it correctly.

IF it was installed correctly, you either got the wrong parts or their kits are not designed for your car. Are you sure they installed the correct lever? I would not accept it and would return to the installer and have them do it right.
 

Last edited by 1999Porsche911; Oct 21, 2009 at 05:07 PM.
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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Mflech,
When I was installing mine I called the manufacturer and described my noise and it turned out to be what they sugested, an incorrect installation of the disc. I did this my self so I know what I had done. They also said
that for some reason just in the last year installers have been installing the steel plate with the bolt pattern in it in between the crank and the flywheel. Even when I did my install I could see that this was to keep bolts from galling the Aluminum and belonged on the front side. If you had someting like this it would run the plate up into the TO brg and cause the clutch to push in to the disc to far. I hope you get it fixed it works great and you really don't have to add anything else to the mix. I got 35,000 on mine

Tony
 
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 06:26 PM
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I'll also be doing the Aasco lightweight flywheel and the stage 2 SPEC clutch on my 99 VF supercharged p-car shortly. Guess I'll have to chime back in here and let everybody know the installation progress.
 


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