Has anyone upgraded their intermediate shaft?
#16
10-18-2009, 02:30 PM
To my knowledge porsche doesn't have an upgraded IMS bearing. I know that they changed to a double bearing set at one point but those fail also. Based on my observation having seen both the Porsche part and the LN part the LN part makes more sense to me. The stud on the LN part is significantly larger. The porsche stud starts smaller plus they cut a channel into the stud to allow the gasket to seat inside of it. LN cuts the channel for the gasket into the collar that the stud runs through. THis makes more sense since the collar really isn't stressed the same way. The ceramic bearings are certainly a bonus. I could be totally wrong. I am also a little biased. I just bought my car and basically did most of the LN upgrades that could easily be done. I think the LN solution is relatively new. Too my knowledge there is no long term data to show the impact of what they have done. However I know I feel better having made the upgrade. If your getting your clutch or RMS done spend the extra 500 or 600 bucks and have some peace of mind. I would certainly do it before a wheel or stereo upgrade!
#17
10-18-2009, 09:15 PM
So, I have 50,000 miles on my '03 C4S, tip, and was serously thinking about buying an extended warranty. Costs about $3,200. The main reason for the warranty is fear of the motor going. Maybe the best insurance would be to spend the $1500(?) and having the motor gone through while it is still running strong. While it's out, the RMS (of course) cam things, and maybe the overflow radiator jug. Waddya think?
#18
10-19-2009, 05:04 AM
I just finished replacing the IMS bearing in my '01 996 C2 with 94,500 miles. The symptons were a loud rattle at start up and most recently, a vibration at 3,000 rpm. I removed the transmission and replaced the tranny mounting bushing. I removed the IMS bearing support and the shaft would move from side to side noting a fair amount of play in the bearing races. Upon removal and inspection, the ***** were pitted and the radial and axial play in the bearing was extreme. I can not say when the bearing would have failed but I would guess that it would be soon. The kit from L&N engineering has a new bearing, center shaft and support housing. It is definately beefier than the OEM. I am grateful that I had it replaced sooner than later. The whole affair cost me $2K, $600 for the bearing kit, $80 for the tranny bushing, $200 for a tranny jack. When I found the bearing problem, I had my indy put it back together. He has all the tools for the cam locking, flushed and refilled the tranny as well. The car runs better and the engine sounds better as well.
I would think that an inspection would be in order during a clutch change. Pay close attention to changes in the engine sounds at start up.
Good luck;
James Greer
I would think that an inspection would be in order during a clutch change. Pay close attention to changes in the engine sounds at start up.
Good luck;
James Greer
#19
10-19-2009, 07:28 AM
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Locking the motor at TDC is no big deal. Sure Porsche makes a special tool for this but you don't need it. I used a rod the size of the opening in the pully and it works fine. The only reason to pull a cam plug is to make sure you have the engine set at TDC on cylinder 1, and you need to see the end of the intake cam on 1-3. The new plug is about $8 and it is a 5 minute job. You do need to take out the cam chain tensioners , but that is to take the pressure off the inteditate shaft on the flywheel side where the bearing is. The chance of it loosing the timing is about nil. I had my cams off without loosing the timing, and did not have the special tools. And you only need to take the cams off if you really want to replace the tensioner pads (mine were pretty badly worn at 50,000 miles but lots of engine go with the wear to 100,000+ miles) or check/replace lifters. I fabricated one hold down tool and marked the chains, gears, etc. so I did not need the special tools. Now if you are going to replace chains or tear the entine all the way down you would need some of the special tools.
The wear of the pads or the problems with lifters really have nothing to do with the IMS bearing, most bearing replacements are done with only the trans being dropped.
The reality is that you can do the IMS bearing retrofit with little worry about any of this.
The wear of the pads or the problems with lifters really have nothing to do with the IMS bearing, most bearing replacements are done with only the trans being dropped.
The reality is that you can do the IMS bearing retrofit with little worry about any of this.
#20
10-19-2009, 04:20 PM
One thing to note, 02 and newer 3.6 litre cars need GREAT attention paid to the cam timing. When the cam chain tensioners are loosened/removed, the cams have a tendancy to snap forward/back a tooth or two so cam timing MUST be verified before putting everything back together. Reason for this is that on the 3.6 motors, there is no significant amount of chain wrap around the cam sprockets. The 3.4 engines have much more chain wrap so almost never any issue though cam timing as a general rule should always be verified.
how many more hours (tech hours not DIY hours) do you think doing the IMS retrofit and replacing the RMS would add to a clutch replacement?
#21
10-19-2009, 05:19 PM
All my work has been on a 3.4, and it seems it would be hard to loose the timing on a 3.4. I had my cams out, after taking out the tensioners and taking off the sprocket from the cams. And it would have been very hard to get the sprocket out of the chain. I did secure the chain/sprocket with some wire just for safety. I had marked the position of the sprocket on the flange on the cam and used this to set the timing.
How do the 3.6 sprocket differ?
How do the 3.6 sprocket differ?
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