Back in Jan 2008, I read on this forum of another "new" RMS cure for the 996. As my reman 996 engine on my 2000 C2 cab. (replaced in 2004, approx 20K mi ago), is starting to weep from the RMS, I was wondering - does anyone have any experience or updated info on the GT3 Motorsport RMS installed in REVERSE? Initial reports seemed promising, but now that we have had 2 years to look objectively at this new solution, does it actually WORK? Has it come down to installing seals backwards to make them work? When in the world is Porsche going to get a handle on what CANNOT be that big of a engineering problem in the greater scheme of things. For God's sake, they figured out variable LIFT on a camshaft system - how hard can getting a seal to - now prepare yourself - TO ACTUALLY SEAL? Maybe it is time for Porsche to fire their entire department that is responsible for seal design and development. Thanks for any advise/experience.

 

+1 on the ridiculousness of the situation

 

My .02...If your engine was replaced that long ago, it likely had the most up to date seal in it...in 2004. I would advise against the Gt3 seal. Gt3 seal WILL leak, when not driven. It relies on engine vacuum to fully seal, ie..engine running. My advise is to put in the latest seal (2010), and do the L&N engineering IMS bearing, and call it a day. I'm also pretty sure the seals are different diameters/thickness.

 

Porschespeeddemon, thanks for the advise. I was a little wary of the GT3 seal. Has the RMS seal for the 996 been updated lately? I see you reference 2010 - has it been redesigned again for this year? Is it finally working properly? You also mentioned the IMS bearing from LN Engineering. I am aware of their product, and it sounds like a great idea. Is the removal of the stock bearing safe (won't damage cases)? Did the reman engines (mine was replaced in 2004) upgrade the IMS bearing? Thanks for the info.

 

I believe the seal has been redesigned once this year, if not late 2009, and they have been MUCH better as of the last revision. It is a completely different seal. The removal of the stock IMS bearing is very safe, and if opted for, you can even purchase all the tools to do it from L&N directly, or if you can find a reputable shop that has done them before, they will already have the tools. Most likely, your reman engine in 2004 has the double row bearing, but not the newest larger bearing (997 from 2006-2008) which can still fail.

 

porschespeeddemon, thanks for the info. When the time comes, I will look into this latest seal you spoke of. In regards to the IMS bearing, is the double-row bearing still susceptible to failure, or is the 997 bearing you also mentioned the weaker item? Sorry for being dense. My servicing dealership says he has never heard of a reman engine having an IMS failure - do you agree? Can the IMS cover be removed (say during the RMS exchange), or will something shift/screw up if I do so? Can I tell at this point which bearing setup is in the engine? Are you saying that I should replace the double row bearing if that is what is installed? Thanks for the info, and it sure will be nice to have the garage floor remain unmarked someday after driving the car.

 

Yes the double row bearing installed in later 996/early 997 can still fail. The only way to tell which one you have (between single row/double row or the newer 997 style) would be to pull the trans and look at the stud protruding out of the IMS flange. If it is a 13mm nut it is the older style that can fail. If it is a 22mm nut, it is the newest style IMS and I have yet to see a failire of this type, and in the event of a total failire with a salvageable engine, the 22mm nut style shaft is what Porsche sends to replace. This requires COMPLETE engine disassembly. The best time to do the updated L&N bearing is when you're doing an RMS/clutch repair. Your mileage may vary with labor times to do the updated bearing. The newest RMS will come around a blue plastic ring that is used on the install tool. I say unless you have the latest larger bearing, replace it when you do the RMS.

 

porschespeeddemon, you are truly a storehouse of information. Can I use a borescope to view the end of the IMS to determine if I have the 22mm-nut style shaft so that I know whether to order a LN Engineering unit or not before I have it up on a shop's lift and apart? Can the engine number be traced to determine this through Porsche? If that is the case, do I still replace the IMS bolts, or are they also upgraded items? In regards to the RMS I will look for a blue ring tool that the seal is mounted on. Have you heard, are these actually sealing - perish the thought?!! Only took them 12 years to get an oil seal right!! I guess we should be grateful we haven't had to deal with out of round wheels - haha! Thanks so much for all this wonderful info, and your great knowledge of this car is commendable.

 

Do you have an approximate range for the amount of dealer time it takes to replace the IMS?

 

The problem with being able to see which IMS bearing you have is that it sits behind and tucked up by the flywheel. So far the new seal has been great, I have seen a couple with the green seal install aid that were the first generation of the whole new seal seep a bit, but since they went to the blue ring I have not seen any return leaking.

BGR Alex: If just replacing all with OEM parts for just the IMS flange, it shouldn;'t be much more labor than a clutch. If updating to the L&N bearing, your mileage may vary with labor times, but L&N suggests 2-4 hours(Just to replace the old bearing with theirs) depending on how seated the bearing is.

 

porschespeeddemon, I called one of LN Engineering's "vendors", and he said that I would be required to remove the cam chain tensioners, as well as another between the IMS and the crank. He also said it was faster to pull the engine/trans together, separate them, put engine on a stand, and then do the work. This seems excessive. My question to you is: Do the tensioners (all) have to be removed, and does this mean the engine needs to be locked into TDC as well as the four camshafts locked into position? I guess I can understand that once the bearing was removed it would shift the IMS. Once the tensioners are removed, wouldn't the valve springs try to shift the cam lobes out of correct position, thereby creating a nightmare of having to retime the cams? With having to remove all the aforementioned items, as well as lock up the four camshafts, would it indeed be easier pulling the engine? Please advise, and thanks again for your help.

 

You would be better off talking with L&N directly. They are very helpful and informative. Here is a link to their website on this section, and I HIGHLY recommend giving it a thorough read, as you can see, the photos are all engine in car, the only thing that must be removed is the transmission/clutch/flywheel http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html The only reason you would want to pull the engine and put it on a stand is if you were replacing the ACTUAL intermediate shaft. That is engine completely apart. Let me know if you have any other questions, hopefully that link will put photos to words.