Just bought a 2000 996 with 99K, Vesuvio with full black leather-drove it back from California with my 8 year old son and had a great time.

I'm aware of the RMS, IMS and cylinder problems and decided to roll the dice on this car-few records, several owners etc etc.

So, in the oil filler tube there is a white waxy substance, cleaned it once (kinda orange then) and it has returned after about 100 miles of driving.

No oil in coolant tank and no noises or leaks, car runs strong.

What is this? Should I let the problem develop or fix it early?

If its a major failure then I'd tackle the job myself, pulling engine and replacing clutch, IMS, RMS and any engine trouble.

What engine parts would I need to order to go through the engine?
bearings? etc etc or would i just replace cylinders and broken heads and leave the original stuff?

Thanks!

P.S. The reason I have to fix this myself is because my wife will kill me if I spend big money on a car she didnt want. I paid $14,850 for the car so I won't jump off of a cliff if it needs something.

 

Did you do an oil change on it yet?

In the 100 miles since you last cleaned it, do you normally take it on short trips not allowing the car to fully warm up?

I had something similiar and found a lot of short trips where the engine doesn't fully warm up contributes to this(if it is the same thing I'm thinking about).

Ever since I cleaned mine, it hasn't returned as I generally let it warm up all the time now.

This has only happened when I initially bought the car in Atlanta ironically.

 

That usually speaks to coolant in your oil. You can get coolant in your oil and no oil in your coolant...

Coolant in your oil will eventually remove the lubricating properties of your engine and cause an engine failure. With these things it may be a cracked head.

Also Motor Meister has a VERY bad reputation with their business and rebuilds... I'd avoid that idea.

Cheers
Aaron

 

I have seen people quick to perpetuate MotorMeister as having a bad reputation, but its seems to be second or third hand info or hearsay from people that have not worked with the directly.

Where are the all people that have been wronged by them?

I found one negative write up on them, I think on ripoff report and another, on Pelicanparts forums. I wonder how they can be in business so long, with such high volume if all they do is poor work? Or maybe I am naive.

Back to OP, there are tests you can/should do before you replace your engine. Oil analysis, leak down test, etc.

Congrats on the new wheels.

 

This could very likely be the typical residue that you see in the oil filler tube in cold weather, particularly on engines that are driven short distances in the cold weather.

Look at the oil. If there is much contamination with coolant then it will look like a chocolate shake. If there is not any visible contamination but you are still worried than have the oil analyzed, there are several services that do this. It will show if there is even a small amount of coolant in the oil.

If you find some contamination post back here. I had severe intermix from a cracked head. Fixed it myself (other than having the head welded) and now have almost 10,000 miles on the fixed engine. these engines can be fixed!

Keep us posted.

 

Well I don't have first hand knowledge, I have spoken to those that do. Also, OEM Porsche build is $13k USD, Jake Raby upgraded build (like LNE options) $17k USD, MotorMeister $6k USD. I've seen the result locally of a Jake Raby build, worth the extra $$.

Given the fact that getting rebuild parts is still an issue from Porsche along with the tools and information... just give that some thought.

Things I've heard is the reuse of used parts from other engines that had cracked heads, etc, etc.


PS Hope your car works out. Whatever happens, do your homework...

Cheers
Aaron

 

It's water (from the combustion of gas) condensing in the coolest part of the engine (the oil filler tube). Change your oil and drive your car MORE and LONGER, both you and your car will enjoy it....

 

This last September, Jake Raby quoted me a starting price of $20K for a 3.4 rebuild. That included a one year warranty.

 

Ditto...

Check your dipstick and coolant level to be sure but my advice is relax, it's normal in colder weather.

Basically it's your car telling you you're not driving it right, you need to drive it faster, and harder, for longer, this will cure it...

 

What engine parts would I need to order to go through the engine?
bearings? etc etc or would i just replace cylinders and broken heads and leave the original stuff?

At a minimum: Gaskets $500., (5) timing chains $250., chain tensioners & wear pads $300., IMS bearing $150- $800., rod & main bearings $200.,rod bolts $75.,Piston rings$900., oil & filters $200.,cleaning $100., Special tools $1000. That's off the top of my head having just finished one 3 months ago.