Electrical Issue?
Electrical Issue?
I seem to be having some electrical issues after the alarm went off a few days ago. Here are some examples -
I get out of the car after a drive and when I come back, the remote doesn't work. Once I get back in the trip mileage is set back to 0.0, the clock has been reset to a random time and I have to hold the button down to lower the windows/sunroof instead of just tapping it once. The radio also randomly turned off and on real quickly once today and I'm not sure what that's about. Sometimes the headlights seem like they flicker, not on and off, just a little bit more dim than others.
Only other issue I'm having with the car is that the drivers side window doesn't roll down/up half an inch real quick as you close the door. As a result, the window stays outside the door unless you roll the windows down, close the door and then roll them up.
Any ideas what these issues could be coming from? Car is a '99 C2 Coupe
Other than that, the car is perfect! Thanks for your help
I get out of the car after a drive and when I come back, the remote doesn't work. Once I get back in the trip mileage is set back to 0.0, the clock has been reset to a random time and I have to hold the button down to lower the windows/sunroof instead of just tapping it once. The radio also randomly turned off and on real quickly once today and I'm not sure what that's about. Sometimes the headlights seem like they flicker, not on and off, just a little bit more dim than others.
Only other issue I'm having with the car is that the drivers side window doesn't roll down/up half an inch real quick as you close the door. As a result, the window stays outside the door unless you roll the windows down, close the door and then roll them up.
Any ideas what these issues could be coming from? Car is a '99 C2 Coupe
Other than that, the car is perfect! Thanks for your help
Last edited by CMartin348; Sep 6, 2011 at 08:20 PM.
Your battery might be going out. How old is the battery?
Another alternative could be the alternator and/or the alternator's regulator.
What model and year is your car?
If the windows don't dip down when you open the door, it is most likely the microswitch, window regulator or motor. Hopefully it resolves with the battery issue.
Another alternative could be the alternator and/or the alternator's regulator.
What model and year is your car?
If the windows don't dip down when you open the door, it is most likely the microswitch, window regulator or motor. Hopefully it resolves with the battery issue.
Your battery might be going out. How old is the battery?
Another alternative could be the alternator and/or the alternator's regulator.
What model and year is your car?
If the windows don't dip down when you open the door, it is most likely the microswitch, window regulator or motor. Hopefully it resolves with the battery issue.
Another alternative could be the alternator and/or the alternator's regulator.
What model and year is your car?
If the windows don't dip down when you open the door, it is most likely the microswitch, window regulator or motor. Hopefully it resolves with the battery issue.
Any way to find out for sure if it's the battery vs. alternator?
It's a '99 C2 Coupe.
What is "fine"?
What are the cranking voltage (higher than 10v), charging voltage, (should be 13.8- 14.2) and voltage when the ignition is on before you start the car? (should be 12.4-12.9)
What are the cranking voltage (higher than 10v), charging voltage, (should be 13.8- 14.2) and voltage when the ignition is on before you start the car? (should be 12.4-12.9)
Voltage when ignition is on before car start - 10ish
Cranking Voltage - 10ish
Charging voltage - 13.5
So I started up the car, lights were flickering (dim/bright) inside and outside the car. Got out and looked at the headlights to make sure I wasn't just imagining things and then after a few seconds the car randomly shut off...
What is "fine"?
You need a battery tester that can put a load on the battery to test the charge. With the same tester (engine at around 1500 rpm with all accessories off), you can test the alternator. Many local parts stores will test your battery for free.
Before you test, make sure all of the battery's 6 cells have electrolyte fluid in them. Open each cell cap with a large screwdriver and shine a light in the cell. You should see the fluid. If not, add distilled water to the marked line. Be careful not to splash or get the electrolte fluid on your car or yourself -- it is very acidic. Don't breath the fumes and be careful when using the screwdriver around the positive terminal.
It sounds like it is not holding a charge. You mentioned the radio turns off. Do you also lose the preset stations too?
+1 Have your battery checked out. Weak battery and bad ingintion switch causes weird electrical issues in these cars.
Last edited by function12; Sep 7, 2011 at 09:21 AM.
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jeneric seems to be leading u down the right path. for EVERYTHING to try and go out, it's likely battery/alternator. Idk about adding distilled (has to be distilled, not tap) water to a battery, sure that's what it needs but sulfuric acid is no fun... ask me how i know.
Took it to a battery shop. They tested the battery and said it was putting out 100 less volts(?) than it should be. They also tested the alternator and said it's weak. At this point I'm thinking it's the alternator. Taking it to Porsche or an independent shop to get checked out when I get back from Texas late next week. Hopefully it's nothing too expensive/complicated.
When I was driving home I flashed my lights and the battery gauge dropped to around 10 and I lost power briefly. Weird stuff.
When I was driving home I flashed my lights and the battery gauge dropped to around 10 and I lost power briefly. Weird stuff.
I suspect volts should be amps. It is a 12 volt battery. The volts should only change between around 10 and 14.
100 amps is low. OEM batteries should have at least 400+ cold cranking amps.
I think you're right. It is probably the alternator or it's regulator. If you're driving around, the battery should be charging and should not drop to 10 volts.
How many miles are on your 996?
100 amps is low. OEM batteries should have at least 400+ cold cranking amps.
I think you're right. It is probably the alternator or it's regulator. If you're driving around, the battery should be charging and should not drop to 10 volts.
How many miles are on your 996?
Last edited by jeneric996; Sep 9, 2011 at 09:20 PM.
Sounds like your alternator. You're probably lucky you haven't been stuck out somewhere yet. Change your alternator and battery as soon as you can. Compared to other repairs - it won't be too expensive. However, you should plan on repairs on a Porsche being more than and sometimes double other cars. Keep repair money set aside if your car hasn't been kept up to date and maintained properly as it could get expensive.
I suspect volts should be amps. It is a 12 volt battery. The volts should only change between around 10 and 14.
100 amps is low. OEM batteries should have at least 400+ cold cranking amps.
I think you're right. It is probably the alternator or it's regulator. If you're driving around, the battery should be charging and should not drop to 10 volts.
How many miles are on your 996?
100 amps is low. OEM batteries should have at least 400+ cold cranking amps.
I think you're right. It is probably the alternator or it's regulator. If you're driving around, the battery should be charging and should not drop to 10 volts.
How many miles are on your 996?
53K miles
Sounds like your alternator. You're probably lucky you haven't been stuck out somewhere yet. Change your alternator and battery as soon as you can. Compared to other repairs - it won't be too expensive. However, you should plan on repairs on a Porsche being more than and sometimes double other cars. Keep repair money set aside if your car hasn't been kept up to date and maintained properly as it could get expensive.
The regulator is inside the alternator. Thus, if you get a new alternator, the regulator would be included.
I assume they tested it when they placed a load test. It's job is to keep the volts from exceeding 14.4 volts.
Overall, it's probably the alternator and/or battery.
Did you check each cell in the battery?
I assume they tested it when they placed a load test. It's job is to keep the volts from exceeding 14.4 volts.
Overall, it's probably the alternator and/or battery.
Did you check each cell in the battery?
Update: Got home today after a 10 day road trip. The 911 sat at home for those 10 days. Started up just fine. Was driving it and flashed the lights, lost a lot of power in the engine (felt like the clutch was being pressed in) and the ABS light came on. When I got to the grocery store it couldn't be locked with the FOB. Started right up after, albeit slow and drove fine on the way home. Hopefully taking it to an independent shop monday to get this taken care of.
Yes sir.
The regulator is inside the alternator. Thus, if you get a new alternator, the regulator would be included.
I assume they tested it when they placed a load test. It's job is to keep the volts from exceeding 14.4 volts.
Overall, it's probably the alternator and/or battery.
Did you check each cell in the battery?
I assume they tested it when they placed a load test. It's job is to keep the volts from exceeding 14.4 volts.
Overall, it's probably the alternator and/or battery.
Did you check each cell in the battery?



